Me thinks dicky height sensors.....but strange it is both rears...

Have you checked the ride height calibrations?? no wait...you tried it on the height blocks didn't you...

My thoughts if the sensors read right, the calibration was completed correctly....can only be either

1)a leak past the rear valves and inlet valve allowing air to slowly leak into the bags from the Resevoir and raising the rear height

2) Dicky height sensors on the rear

3) Dodgy EAS ECU thats lost its marbles....

4) Driver pack randomly opening valves when it shouldn't
 
Cheers Saint,

I retried the valves, and sure enough, with exhaust and a corner open, she dropped. I've attached screen prints of the height readings before (as in the photo in previous post) and one from after playing with the valves.

Interestingly, when I opened the exhaust and front left, the back dropped :confused: I know that sounds like I've got the solenoids back on in the wrong positions, but I'm 100% certain they are where they came from originally. Two reasons I'm that certain, I numbered them before I took them off originally, from the diaphragm solenoid (which as you know will only go on one end!).

Is it still worth swapping the height sensors across (its a 2000 model, so should be ok?) or is it now looking like driver pack?

If I do swap the height sensors, should they just go on and work, or will they need calibrating (using the blocks I've got cut to standard profile height).

Cheers
 

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marcinbrighton said:
Cheers Saint,

I retried the valves, and sure enough, with exhaust and a corner open, she dropped. I've attached screen prints of the height readings before (as in the photo in previous post) and one from after playing with the valves.

Interestingly, when I opened the exhaust and front left, the back dropped :confused: I know that sounds like I've got the solenoids back on in the wrong positions, but I'm 100% certain they are where they came from originally. Two reasons I'm that certain, I numbered them before I took them off originally, from the diaphragm solenoid (which as you know will only go on one end!).

Is it still worth swapping the height sensors across (its a 2000 model, so should be ok?) or is it now looking like driver pack?

If I do swap the height sensors, should they just go on and work, or will they need calibrating (using the blocks I've got cut to standard profile height).

Cheers
Click to expand...
Attachments too small to read bud!!

Swapping them will mean recalibration is needed...

If you opened a rear corner and the exhaust and the rear dropped - good sign...

If you opened a Front and the rear dropped - thats odd....

Open Each Corner in turn (without exhaust and inlet) and note which solenoid operates on whichever you operate on the software....

Now do the same thing you have just done - i.e. open a front corner and the exhaust - note which solenoid(s) opens if the rear drops...

Now open a rear corner and the exhaust - again note which solenoid(s) opens - see if it is the same one or not....

If the same one opens, time to check wiring or consider the driver pack is iffy....if a different solenoid opens yet the rear still drops - there can only be a leak in the valve block somewhere between the galleries...!!

If that makes sense...!!
 
Valve Locations to FYI (incase you didn't know - which you probably did already)

As Attached
 

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Cheers saint, I did have a diagram, but that one's clearer.

Sadly though, I can't work out which one is opening, I can hear them, but not feel them. Should they be obvious to feel?

However, on testing them she did some interesting things, the following is the combination of what the faultmate vehicle explorer software is showing (not sure if you're familiar with it?). She was starting from a position where the front was noticeably higher than the back this time!

Inlet and front left – nothing
Inlet and front right – nothing
Inlet and rear left – front left rises
Inlet and rear right – front right rises

Exhaust and front left – nothing
Exhaust and front right – front right drops
Exhaust and rear left – front left drops
Exhaust and rear right – both front drop


But, although what was happening above suggests the back isn't doing anything, the photos I posted earlier show that the back does, at times, come up instead of the front, so I'm not sure how consistent it is!!

I've dropped the screen shots into a couple of word docs and put them into zip files. Hopefully you can get at them and they will be clearer :). I've put a couple more in there too, one showing the heights where she had been running for a bit and decided she had reached high profile, and then a follow up after turning her off and she'd settled a bit.

Just for a laugh, I've put a couple more (not very good) photos so she can show other poses she's adopted this evening!!!!

Cheers

Marc
 

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Intriuging...(spelling)

Looking at the height readings - I think your sensors are fine as they seem to read what the car is actually doing!

I attach the EAS Schematic and the air flows through it during each valve operation I have just put together for you....

Maybe if you follow it you can trace where the air flow is going when you open each valve and not getting the result you expect...

My thoughts are with iffy wiring or connections, a confused Driver Pack opening the wrong valves, or duff Solenoids.

Not sure if you should or shouldn't be able to feel them....I would have though you may be able to feel something...but then again - I haven't had the need to try to feel them....

Hmmmmm......gonna be thinking more on this after I have done my lunch for tomorrow!!
 

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Thanks,

I wonder if its worth getting it back on stands, de-pressurising the system and removing the pipes going out to the airbags. Then trying to repeat the valve opening to try to narrow down the options. at least it will show if air is coming out of the appropriate holes.
 
Looks as if the front and rear airlines have been swopped over.Try reversing the way they are at the moment and see what happens.
 
Both are valid options....

As you say - you have to see where air comes out of the block on each valve opening...

On Stands - Depressure - Remove Air Spring Air Lines from Valve Block - Fill Tank - Open Inlet Valve and Front Right Valve - see where air comes from ....repeat with the remaining 3 valves....note which hole leads to which valve/corner....

Ensure each outlet expells air on demand - i.e. if you open F/R Valve and get air from Outlet 1 - when you open R/R you don't get air expelled from Outlet 1 again!!!

etc etc....

With luck on each valve opening you will only get air from each one in turn....then plumb to correct air spring into the appropriate valve....

RED - Rear Left - (Top Left Port)
BLUE - Rear Right - (Bottom Left Port)
Green - Front Right - (Top Right Port)
Black - Front Left - (Bottom Right Port)
 
As I said in post 9, airlines in the wrong holes in the valve block. that or the coils for the solenoids are on in the wrong order.
 
Datatek said:
As I said in post 9, airlines in the wrong holes in the valve block. that or the coils for the solenoids are on in the wrong order.
Click to expand...

I asked him about coils in post #3 Keith. Putting the pipes back in the wrong place would take some doing but you never know. :):)
 
Hiya,

Checking against the photo I took before I took it apart, I don't think they are in the wrong place, always assuming they were in the correct place to start with!! Checking against Saint's colour coding seems to be OK though.

Is it even possible to get the solenoids in the wrong place given the length of the wires from the multiplug, but, I did number the solenoids before they came off too.

I'm 99.9% confident that all peripheral parts are back on the valve block in the correct place - (can't be 100% coz something's not working :))
 
As above - depressurise - on stands - take out the air pipes - fill tank - use software to open each valve in turn with the inlet valve open and note where the air comes out of - if the solenoids are all in the right place it should match the correct positions in my post above....if you are getting air out of the wrong outlets the solenoids are in the wrong place....

If you are getting spurious air coming from all over - i.e. open one valve and it comes from the RED port, then open another valve and you still get air out of the RED port - I would consider the driver pack is dicky....and opening odd valves when it shouldn't.
 
marcinbrighton said:
Hiya,

Checking against the photo I took before I took it apart, I don't think they are in the wrong place, always assuming they were in the correct place to start with!! Checking against Saint's colour coding seems to be OK though.

Is it even possible to get the solenoids in the wrong place given the length of the wires from the multiplug, but, I did number the solenoids before they came off too.

I'm 99.9% confident that all peripheral parts are back on the valve block in the correct place - (can't be 100% coz something's not working :))
Click to expand...

If you did not have this problem before you stripped valve block somethings amiss that's for sure. Rear should always rise first, both together, then fronts both together, then rears then fronts to settle to selected height. Have you checked that all the plugs are properly engaged? If you have a mechanics stethoscope you should be able to hear the selected valves clicking. Or use a long screwdriver put to the solenoids and to one ear.
 
No, the only problm I had before this was just slow to rise, hence why I tried the preventative maintenance before it caused too many problems. Ironic!!

good idea on the screwdriver, I'll give that a go tomorrow while I'm doing the air test from the ports.

always assuming the new jack turns up of course :)
 
marcinbrighton said:
No, the only problm I had before this was just slow to rise, hence why I tried the preventative maintenance before it caused too many problems. Ironic!!

good idea on the screwdriver, I'll give that a go tomorrow while I'm doing the air test from the ports.

always assuming the new jack turns up of course :)
Click to expand...

Lack of proper pressure usual cause of that. If the tanks up to pressure it should rise from access to standard in seconds.
 
That's what I thought. The old bags looked pretty tired, she's done 92K miles and they looked original, so I figured while changing the bags I might as well do the valve block at the same time.

After I put it back together and these problems started, I thought it might have been down to the compressor not being able to get enough air in so I put a new compressor on.

When the tank is up to pressure (which does take some time, even leaving a door open) it does move quickly, just not in any particular manner! I've soap tested the airline back to the tank and covered the tank in it too, no bubbliness that I can see.

I'm kinda hoping that when I test the air ports tomorrow they are all over the place. That at least will give a good suggestion that the driver pack may be erring.

Will let you know.....

Cheers

Marc
 
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