eyes closed LRGUY LRGUY LRGUY

please help any idea how to remove sensor, no bolt on mine
thanks
play with HDC doesn't engage with TC , ABS, and HDC light on
 
Brake switch failure will need a reset of the ecu,dont go wasting time in breakers yards - get someone to read the codes.
 
eightinavee said:
Brake switch failure will need a reset of the ecu,dont go wasting time in breakers yards - get someone to read the codes.

I live 30 odd miles from nearest landrover dealer , does it need to go there or does a local garage allowed/ able to read the codes. I assume you can't do this yourself
thanks
 
cool thanks , in case it is a sensor problem any advice on sensor removal would be a help

thanks guys for all your help so far :)
 
BOO

i wouldnt bother tryin to remove a sensor its more than likely seized into the hub so unless you know its faulty id leave well alone.

the fault codes in abs are pretty accurate so my advise is to get your codes read, what will it cost you- 1/2hour labour at dealer and if its somethin simple theyll probs do it part of the process,
theres not a lot you can do without that code,
posible faults,
brake switch
abs sensor or curcuit fault
air gap too big or small
ecu ground reference fault
wires to hdc switch faulty
there are lots that can go wrong so a code to pinpoint it would help you no end :)
 
to666ny said:
cool thanks , in case it is a sensor problem any advice on sensor removal would be a help

thanks guys for all your help so far :)
Over to you eightinavee
 
As LR Guy says abs fault codes are worth reading - even I still use Testbook as first choice with abs.The passive sensors on early F/L's are generally reliable,so unless a wheel bearing has developed play I would put my money elsewhere.Testbook,Rovacom,Autologic and Auto diagnos diagnostic computers should all be capable of finding what is wrong.
If the Ecu is registering intermittent faults on wheel sensor inputs I use a Pico Oscilliscope to monitor the sensor waveforms - often it is not necessary to go to these lengths,but the hall effect sensors on later F/L's are expensive and I dont like telling people that is what they need then it doesnt work.
Correct diagnosis is the way to go - not just throwing parts at it.
 
But do the fault codes inhibit the abs? mondo ya really impressed me wiv yer knowledge mate [hall effect and all that] yer a bit off a dark horse,[full respect]. . .:)
 
wow, thanks for all the info, great advice. will get codes read and go from there will let you know what prob is when I find out
once again cheers guys fingers crossed not too expensive to fix :)
 
ming said:
But do the fault codes inhibit the abs? mondo ya really impressed me wiv yer knowledge mate [hall effect and all that] yer a bit off a dark horse,[full respect]. . .:)
Sarky sod:p ;)
But yer like the other lads say twill save a lot of hasstle to go the testbook route and pinpoint it
LR should do one free when yer buy a new motor
 
eightinavee said:
As LR Guy says abs fault codes are worth reading - even I still use Testbook as first choice with abs.The passive sensors on early F/L's are generally reliable,so unless a wheel bearing has developed play I would put my money elsewhere.Testbook,Rovacom,Autologic and Auto diagnos diagnostic computers should all be capable of finding what is wrong.
If the Ecu is registering intermittent faults on wheel sensor inputs I use a Pico Oscilliscope to monitor the sensor waveforms - often it is not necessary to go to these lengths,but the hall effect sensors on later F/L's are expensive and I dont like telling people that is what they need then it doesnt work.
Correct diagnosis is the way to go - not just throwing parts at it.

Where can we get these diagnostic computers? are they like a software running on normal comp?
 
hi Guys
, its all booked into a local 4x4 garagenext friday,they reckon they can read the codes . Fingers crossed not too expensive to sort. I will let you know what it is when I find out
thanks guys
 
hi all
tested yesterday, sign of relief not ecu or modulator. faulty rear abs sensor managed to get one for 150 pounds, the sensor that had gone was the same one that the brake cylinder seals had gone on
thanks for all help
 

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