JamesBB
Active Member
Cool, that is what I thought you were referring to.
Cheers
Cool, that is what I thought you were referring to.
Cheers
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
I know that
I guess that would need to be in a neutral gear too?
Thanks
Why, all you want is to be able to turn a wheel and check the u/j's for any movement or lift. Better if you get someone to turn the wheel back and to (only needs to be about 45 degrees each way) while you have a look, or hold the yoke to feel any movement. Mind your fingers
JamesBB
Active Member
Why, all you want is to be able to turn a wheel and check the u/j's for any movement or lift. Better if you get someone to turn the wheel back and to (only needs to be about 45 degrees each way) while you have a look, or hold the yoke to feel any movement. Mind your fingers
OK. or I could rturn the wheel why somebody else watches their fingers
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
OK. or I could rturn the wheel why somebody else watches their fingers
Delegation, I like it.
OK. or I could rturn the wheel why somebody else watches their fingers
You won't turn the wheels other than the front one with difficulty, you will only be able to rock them. Idea of lifting a wheel is to remove weight from the UJs. You can't check for wear with the wheels on the floor. Put your hand on the UJs and get someone to rock the wheel. You will feel play long before you can see it. Check for up and down play in the input and output flanges.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I find the ability to rotate the props essential to see if just one bearing on a UJ is slack, angle can mask it.True but not needed for this exercise.
Not in my experience. If there is no weight on the joint which is the idea of lifting a wheel to remove wind up. Movement anywhere in the UJ should be relatively easy to detect. If one end of the prop is held firm even more so. Movement detection is done by feel not by sight.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Not going to argue, but i have found that play varies with angle.
JamesBB
Active Member
Quick update.
Not got to the UJs yet as I need another helper to turn the wheel while I check, or vice versa. Should sort that out by the end of the week with any luck.
Decided to try and rule out diffs/final drive and change the oil.
Front oil was at the right level (so it seemed) and when drained came out greyish and very runny. No sludge, no signs of any metal at all. I am guessing some water ingress turned it greyish. Probably the end of our road that regularly turns into a river after a heavy downpour.
Rear oil was overfull if anything, as soon as the filler plug was removed about a eggcup full or two came out. Seemed like it was under a little pressure. Maybe a breather is blocked........
The rear oil itself looked clean and was quite brown, not black or dark. No sludge or metal.
I used a greenish mineral oil EP90 GL-5 to refill, 1.6 litres each end.
As far as the noise is concerned, I have not driven it yet, will do that later.
I think I am ruling out bearing though because I read a post from a few years back where Wammers said that bearings would do it all the time. This only does it on overrun when fast and most of the time when slow.
The video I posted is the same noise, but does not happen anywhere near as much on acceleration.
UJs next.
Not got to the UJs yet as I need another helper to turn the wheel while I check, or vice versa. Should sort that out by the end of the week with any luck.
Decided to try and rule out diffs/final drive and change the oil.
Front oil was at the right level (so it seemed) and when drained came out greyish and very runny. No sludge, no signs of any metal at all. I am guessing some water ingress turned it greyish. Probably the end of our road that regularly turns into a river after a heavy downpour.
Rear oil was overfull if anything, as soon as the filler plug was removed about a eggcup full or two came out. Seemed like it was under a little pressure. Maybe a breather is blocked........
The rear oil itself looked clean and was quite brown, not black or dark. No sludge or metal.
I used a greenish mineral oil EP90 GL-5 to refill, 1.6 litres each end.
As far as the noise is concerned, I have not driven it yet, will do that later.
I think I am ruling out bearing though because I read a post from a few years back where Wammers said that bearings would do it all the time. This only does it on overrun when fast and most of the time when slow.
The video I posted is the same noise, but does not happen anywhere near as much on acceleration.
UJs next.
JamesBB
Active Member
Ok another quick update.
Still squeaks and vibrates.
I now notice that it happens accelerating up a hill, or coasting down a hill.
If I attempt to coast up a hill all is not as bad, or accelerate down a hill it is not as bad.
Flat and level it seems relatively fine most of the time.
This is starting to sounds like the UJs which is next on the list. In the meantime I am not using the car other than for tests.
Any advice welcome.
Still squeaks and vibrates.
I now notice that it happens accelerating up a hill, or coasting down a hill.
If I attempt to coast up a hill all is not as bad, or accelerate down a hill it is not as bad.
Flat and level it seems relatively fine most of the time.
This is starting to sounds like the UJs which is next on the list. In the meantime I am not using the car other than for tests.
Any advice welcome.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Wrong diff oil, should be 75W90. Won't do any harm though.
A wheel bearing will make a noise all the time just vary in pitch with speed. Failing pinion bearings show up mostly on the overrun, as they get worse they will make a noise all the time but get louder on the overrun.
JamesBB
Active Member
Will this cause vibration also?
Is the pinion bearing RTC6751?
If so, 1 in each diff casing?
Cheers
JamesBB
Active Member
Two pinion bearings and you really need to know what you are doing to replace them.
JamesBB
Active Member
Not a for a home DIY job then for an amateur.......
I better look at getting a quote.
I would imagine a competent professional could do both in 2 hours + parts?
Cheers
I would be having another thought about that if i were you. If you get an exchange diff (if it is indeed your problem) you are looking at around four hours to change it maybe more. Depending who does it. Removing the diff stripping it and replacing pinion bearings and other parts as required would be a minimum of a day maybe more. Plus parts.
JamesBB
Active Member
Oh dear.......
