hitch6742

hitch6742

Member
Well, as title suggest.....the endless trail of buying part after part to potentially solve an issue begins.

Problem is this....first thing in a morning (or whenever started from cold), let idle for a minute or two then set off, it is EXTREMELY slow, I mean taking 10secs to reach 10mph with revs going to 3000rpm before gear change, I timed it once 0-60 and it took 62secs!! Once run for about 5-10mins drives fine, 55 plate td4 on 92000m.

I bought a new MAP sensor and MAF metre, no difference, all hoses are intact, drove a 55mile journey, parked up for the day, returned, started car.....EML LIGHT ON!!

Also having IRD and VCU replaced in 2wks, does this have any effect?

Please can someone shed some light on this, it goes in for MOT this weekend and think it might fail on the new regs having a dashboard warning light on.
 
hitch6742 said:
Well, as title suggest.....the endless trail of buying part after part to potentially solve an issue begins.

Problem is this....first thing in a morning (or whenever started from cold), let idle for a minute or two then set off, it is EXTREMELY slow, I mean taking 10secs to reach 10mph with revs going to 3000rpm before gear change, I timed it once 0-60 and it took 62secs!! Once run for about 5-10mins drives fine, 55 plate td4 on 92000m.

I bought a new MAP sensor and MAF metre, no difference, all hoses are intact, drove a 55mile journey, parked up for the day, returned, started car.....EML LIGHT ON!!

Also having IRD and VCU replaced in 2wks, does this have any effect?

Please can someone shed some light on this, it goes in for MOT this weekend and think it might fail on the new regs having a dashboard warning light on.
Click to expand...

Buying parts wholesale is unlikely to get the right result, and is going to be expensive.
You need to diagnose the fault, and deal with it.
I have no idea what the problem is, but the freelie boys will.
I would suggest waiting and seeing what they say before buying anything else. It will likely be a single simple issue.
 
Hi Have you checked all the vacuum hoses from the EGR also how clean is the EGR & manifold, a sticking EGR can bring on the EML light, is the MAP sensor plugged in if so are its wires ok, air filter is it clean, all these you can check without it costing you anything.
 
Thanks for replying, I fitted the crank breather upgrade few weeks back, everything cleaned while apart, scraped a fair bit of carbon out out of the inlet too, all pipes fit and healthy...
 
My old 300TDI Disco was sluggish like that first thing - in winter it was quicker to walk to the train station. It wasn't even that old then, was only about 5 years old at the time. Never really looked into it, sold it when we moved over here. However, if the MIL light is on, the first thing to do is plug a diagnostics tool in and find out what's causing that - it may be related to your sluggish cold starts.

I'm confused at to why you are replacing the IRD. The VCU is fair enough given your previous thread saying it has a braking effect in reverse - presumably when you turn while reversing? However, are all the tyres the same make & model & pumped to the same pressures? Bad tyres have the same effect as a bad VCU, and will ultimately kill the VCU then the IRD. Have you any evidence that the IRD is failing? I note you said there is vibration, but the IRD is probably the most expensive part to replace on hope that it stops that! If you are paying anything less than £650 for a reputable recon IRD, chances are it isn't worth having. Have you changed the oil in it and examined the old oil?

Have you had a read of this thread...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/
 
Auto gearbox oil changed, replaced all 4 tyres 2wks ago, prop bearings are knackered, whine coming from front when driven...both parts are being replaced by Bell Engineering.
 
There are so many things to check before spending money on random components.

Inlet manifold and port runners cleaned of accumulated goop.

All vacuum pipes are sound and leak free.

The turbo filter is clean and open to the atmosphere at one end.

The boost solenoid is working and harness integrity checked.

The rail sensor is free from corrosion.

The low pressure fuel rail is over 300Kpa, preferably at 360Kpa.

The MAP sensor is clear.

Boost pipes are free of splits and holes.

All these checks need to be completed, before spending money on anything.
 
Right....car has been on diagnostics, wouldn’t give me the fault codes but told me it was possibly the turbo actuator and will require smoke test. Bought the actuator, cleared the engine light and off I went, been driving much better, still gets a ‘water down a plug hole’ kind of noise when lifting off throttle after hard acceleration, now after 48hrs, engine light on AGAIN, but driving normal!!

Anybody want to buy a freelander?!
 
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