OK (thanks) so which bit of metal linking to which other bit of metal creates the angle and why cant you just put them together without measuring it?
 
look at the bar type VCU test. (OWUT)
this uses a bar with a weight at one end of it and a socket at the other fitted to the centre wheel nut, to turn a rear wheel.
 
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I gets the feeling my explanation would have been betterer if I'd used a digital watch display, fer the tratter boys. :)
 
Following this thread with interest, having replaced my VCU with one of Austens about 5 months back. I was concerned my original one was on its way out because of the classic symptoms which needed no special test, granted its easier in an auto, as follows. Reverse in a straight line at tickover, apply full lock, car slows to a stop. Repeat test in mates newer lower milage car, no slowing to a stop. My mileage 72k, the recognized sell by date for a vcu used in shall we say little/no off roading.
Still, a simple test using a bar on the hub nut etc to back up my admittedly subjective self diagnosis would be nice.
 
Temperature was something that was mentioned earlier on and in another thread. Parts like this when they get hot, don't dissapate heat that quickly. However after being scared by most of the postings on here (maybe needlessly?) about VCU's. I decided after two runs to get underneath after the drives and check the temp of the VCU. One was a fast dual carriage way 15 mile run and the other around the twisties and on both occasions I could touch the VCU with barely any warmth in it all. Is that a good sign? I don't know the cars previous history, it's on 88,000 miles. I believe it came from a farm habitat with Horses involved so maybe it has done a bit of off roading. Maybe the VCU has been changed? Is there anyway of telling?
 
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If The vcu is cold or luke warm it it means that the tyres are matched ok, and that the VCU isn't mega tight. But for them to be tight enough to get hot you really can feel it when driving the car (brakes feel like they are being stabbed on when turning). The VCU could be fine, but then again it could be tight, you can't tell purely by temperature.
 
My vcu was never anything but slightly warm after a run of 12 miles the last bit being on twisty single track roads with a couple of full lock turns and a full lock reverse into my cart track to my house. On full lock turns there was a distinct braking effect and a tiny but perceptable bit of wheel skip from the inside wheel.
As I've mentioned in other posts, I caught it in time as there are no signs of ird or rear diff problems, the car drives perfectly. An Austen vcu is cheap, its an easy diy swap and I would say that if in doubt about your vcu change it.
I have no connection with Austen or his business, just a well happy customer.
Regards, Bill
 
On full lock turns there was a distinct braking effect and a tiny but perceptable bit of wheel skip from the inside wheel.

OK now I'm somewhat concerned about mine :(

How much for a VCU???

OK panic over... trip out at lunch showed little or no stopping on tickover reversing. :D
 
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Did owt ever get sorted ??
Never came to a conclusion. Problem being we spent more time arguing than doing the test. There's loads of results peeps have done and posted on the forum. If you search my posts using the option of "posted by member" hippo for the word "cookie" you'll find loads of results where I gave out cookie's as a reward. There's also the big fred at the top of the main Freelander section in ere. For typical times of a working vcu which matches a brand new gkn one, have a look ere:

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/vcu-torque-test-results.109486/page-13#post-2141449
 
Over the last few months, Alibro has done quite a lot of research into VCUs and has come up with some timings, based on his findings. Not just on external VCU operation, but on the actual condition of the fluid in the VCU too.
It's in the VCU testing thread.
Alibro has been using 5KGs at 1.2M.
With those weights, the timings appear to be, from memory, so excuse any errors:
Newly refurbished VCU with 100,000Cts fluid times at under 30 seconds.
Timings up to 45 seconds are acceptable, for an old VCU.
Timings of under 60 seconds are still ok, but there's an increased risk to the IRD, should tyres not be as per spec.
Times over 60 seconds would be an indication that the VCU needs changing soon.
Times close to 120 seconds is bad and the VCU should be removed ASAP. It's also wise to check for damage to the IRD.
 

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