Had another good look at this and I think that the closest I will get is using the middle bigger pulley on the crank and have the Alternator pulley on the wrong way round if thats doable, but then again it shouldnt be that far out on the normal way.
But doing it like this then I would need a belt about 2 to 3 inches longer then the one I have now.
 
I have a couple of petrol series 3's.

One is a daily driver and one I'm fully restoring.

Would pics of the standard 45A alternator setup on my 1975 88" help ?

Not sure which yours is. Also if you have a 65A upgraded alternator, they can have slightly different mounting, causing a difficulty getting the tension on the standard V-belt; this is the same issue for an early 200tdi Defender also I believe.
 
I have a couple of petrol series 3's.

One is a daily driver and one I'm fully restoring.

Would pics of the standard 45A alternator setup on my 1975 88" help ?

Not sure which yours is. Also if you have a 65A upgraded alternator, they can have slightly different mounting, causing a difficulty getting the tension on the standard V-belt; this is the same issue for an early 200tdi Defender also I believe.
Yes mate pics would help Thanks
 
This is the original one from my 1982 2.25 petrol Station Wagon.
16358745476728468646736673288962.jpg
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It's really dark oot, so I'll get you some pics from the running 1975 Station Wagon tomorrow
16358747205362843473446025361306.jpg
 
Nice truck Mate. Some pics of yours mounted would be great.
Thanks for pics,
I now really think that my problem is that I cant get my alternator to move back to the right as it still does not even line up with top water pump pulley unless I have the Alt pulley on the other way as in pic 1 on first post.
Did get a longer belt today and looks OK but with pulley on wring way on alt, think I need to get it fired up to try.
 

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I am still convinced you need your pulley the right way as discussed right at the beginning, go on the inner larger V pulley on the crankshaft pulley. Spacing the alternator by moving your washers is easy as is moving the water pump pulley with a few washers.

J
 
I am still convinced you need your pulley the right way as discussed right at the beginning, go on the inner larger V pulley on the crankshaft pulley. Spacing the alternator by moving your washers is easy as is moving the water pump pulley with a few washers.

J
Keep forgetting about moving the water pump pulley. Right will try that tomorrow, as it is the Only way it might line up with Alt pulley on the Right Way, if only the Alt would move more to the right it would solve this but it has gone as far as it wil go.
It is on the inner larger crank pulley now.
So if I turn Alt pulley back round to the Right way then space the 4 bolts on water pump out to match it, then that hopefully will line thing up properley.
 
I really don’t know but it’s worth a shot, till more pics forth coming.
Or confirmation that the front military crank pulley needs changing. or that the water pump pulley has another type that doesn’t have such a deep dish (bringing belt forwards)

You will get there:).

sorry meant the middle V (when I said the inner largerV).

J
 
You are trying to mix military pulleys with a civilian alternator set up. They will not line up. Install the civilian crank and water pump pulleys and belt will line up.
 
You are trying to mix military pulleys with a civilian alternator set up. They will not line up. Install the civilian crank and water pump pulleys and belt will line up.
I think Nathanglasgow is on target, certanly regarding the crank pulleys.
upload_2021-11-3_12-1-1.jpeg

Mine is a standard single one, takes the starter handle still.
but yours had three V's for maybe an extra alternator for running the military radios ect. I'm shure the fitment of a staqndard crank pulley wouldn't be too hard to find .
As for the water pump, they look similar to me
upload_2021-11-3_12-4-28.jpeg

upload_2021-11-3_12-5-39.jpeg


although yours is more pretty in duck blue :¬)
my crank again from the side, ignore the bit of messy Earthing strap tail.
upload_2021-11-3_12-7-30.jpeg


I have a single adjuster bracket



If you like I can measure the distance of the water pump pulley from the engine block, but they look the same to me from your pics.
 
Military FFR pulleys also take a wider belt than the standard civvie pulleys. Don't try and bodge things with grinding 'a bit off here, packing out with washers, reversing thus or that'. Just fit the proper parts and it will all line up nicely. The work you have done so far is very good.
 
Military FFR pulleys also take a wider belt than the standard civvie pulleys. Don't try and bodge things with grinding 'a bit off here, packing out with washers, reversing thus or that'. Just fit the proper parts and it will all line up nicely. The work you have done so far is very good.
Can give this a try, but my Alt won't move anymore to the right, do
not sure if it will be the same with these standard buts added
 
Well still on with this, was going to try diferent water pump but not sure if it will bring it out a bit to match Alt pulley, really need to get hold of an old one first to try.
Anyway I found this on an engine block I had on scrap heap, was never sure what it was then realised when loking at it that it was bolted where alt fits,
Think its a homemade bracket but it lines up with all holes that the original one does.
Now this has moved the Alternator to the right just where I want it, top middle and Alt pulley seem to line up spot on now but think I need the next size belt up from one in pic, then I can see whats what, but think it looks promising.
 

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Seems a lot better now with bigger belt on everything lines up on all 3 pulleys but wont know till next time I start engine
 

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Back to this again, Finally changed pulley from the 3 wheel military to standard 12 volt and everything seems nice and straight now.
Just need a big enough socket to Torque the big nut up. Whats the best way to stop things turning, so I can tighten it up ? dont have props fitted or clutch plumed in yet
 

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Various methods.
A big chunky impact wrench is usually enough to do it without much holding.
Doing it manually, then wedge something in the flywheel, or leave in gear with wheels chocked, ensuing it is unable to start.
 

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