owl · Jun 26, 2018

Ryanjbeady said:
thanks will get on with it when i get back home im trying to be ready for eckington but il see what happens thats how far i got in 2 days now get the engine in and runing but now wationg for tube but i was just planning out cage and bits on paint seeing what its going to look like

After you have welded up the old diff bolt holes the new holes will be on the edge of the welds which are hard and will deflect your drill bit, use a lathe center to start the holes as it won't deflect.

Ryanjbeady · Jul 7, 2018

owl said:
After you have welded up the old diff bolt holes the new holes will be on the edge of the welds which are hard and will deflect your drill bit, use a lathe center to start the holes as it won't deflect.

tanks and can i ask why you lent you shocks back insted of putting them straight up and down

owl · Jul 9, 2018

Ryanjbeady said:
tanks and can i ask why you lent you shocks back insted of putting them straight up and down

That was because I didn't want them sticking out of the bodywork

Ryanjbeady · Jul 11, 2018

owl said:
That was because I didn't want them sticking out of the bodywork

so it wasnt for any gain on the shocker allso what radiator did you use to cool the engine

owl · Jul 12, 2018

The radiator is a Range Rover L322 TD6 rad.

300bhp/ton · Dec 7, 2018

@owl Awesome thread. Will have to try and catch you in person one of these days at an ALRC event.

Just wondering if I could pick your brains, as I suspect you might know the answer.

I'm interested in a KV6 build, although a much simpler one that yours. Just an engine swap really. I know the older T Series 4 pot engine mated to the PG1 gearbox. Do you know if the KV6 and T-Series share the same bolt pattern? I'm guessing they would, but I'm not sure if there are different fitments of PG1's or how it is done.

I know the T Series and older M Series will fit the LT-77, although I'm not sure if this due to a specific bellhousing just for this application. I'm trying to find out if the KV6 can be mounted to an LT-77/R380/LT-76 with relative ease. I think they are an awesome engine and looking at a way to swap one into a Series and remain within the ALRC regs.

I guess using a PG1 box like you have might be an option too, but I'm not sure I have the necessary skill set to then mount it to an LT-230. Thanks.

jacko68 · Dec 8, 2018

I think it would be more straightforward to use the PG1 box that comes with the engine. Then connect the props directly to the gearbox outputs
If your lucky/ careful/ search carefully, you might just find a PG1 with a torsen LSD (standard Rover fitment, pre 2001

)

300bhp/ton · Dec 12, 2018

jacko68 said:
I think it would be more straightforward to use the PG1 box that comes with the engine. Then connect the props directly to the gearbox outputs
If your lucky/ careful/ search carefully, you might just find a PG1 with a torsen LSD (standard Rover fitment, pre 2001 )

Without a diff lock it would just be an open centre diff and as good off road as a bar of chocolate.... plus no low range. So you'd need to connect to the transfer box for this (as per the op has).

I'm also not sure how strong the PG1 is, will be interesting to see how the op gets on with it. But Rover claimed it wasn't strong enough to go in the Freelander with the V6 and even de-tuned the T-Series 2.0 n/a as it exceeded the torque rating of the PG1. Although they then used it with the Turbo variant and the KV6 in the ZS. But still fairly lightweight cars.

jacko68 · Dec 19, 2018

Mine has the KV6 and freelander auto box; standard 2-pin diffs and shafts, doesn't seem to need a transfer box (it runs in second gear most of the time)

300bhp/ton · Dec 19, 2018

jacko68 said:
Mine has the KV6 and freelander auto box; standard 2-pin diffs and shafts, doesn't seem to need a transfer box (it runs in second gear most of the time)

Interesting.

So you have coupled the front and rear props to what would be the left and right outputs (for fwd) on the gearbox? How are you controlling front/rear drive? Surely the stock autobox would have an open diff in it.

jacko68 · Dec 19, 2018

300bhp/ton said:
Interesting.

So you have coupled the front and rear props to what would be the left and right outputs (for fwd) on the gearbox? How are you controlling front/rear drive? Surely the stock autobox would have an open diff in it.

Exactly that.
The freelander auto box doesn't have a diff; it's a quill shaft that goes into the. IRD. So you could run a shaft back through the box outputs & bolt on LR drive flanges.
The Rover 75 uses the same auto box, using that you could weld up the diff gears & machine the drive cups down and weld on flanges.
The 3.54 reduction in the axle diffs effectively gives you the low range

(first gear on mine is something like 48:1 and then its got the torque converter...)

owl · Apr 25, 2019

Well an update is in order. I have been comping this motor for 3 years now without much trouble. No broken diffs, shafts or gearbox. I swopped the engine last year because it was a bit smokey which it was from the start and I have changed the steering box to fix a leak.
I have bent the steering knuckles twice which I think might be down to the HD steering bars so I am going to try standard bar and see what happens.
other than that it has been very reliable.
I did go end over end at stainby last year (flat out in 5th) and got of with a very bent bumper and a well dented roof, it landed back on its wheels and I was able to carry on and finish the event.
Last weekend we went to Lancs and Cheshire Easter event at Tickhill quarry and the comp was brilliant. the shocks are valved about right and the engine is mapped out nice now.

300bhp/ton · Apr 25, 2019

Are you going to be at this years ALRC National?

Al2O3 · Apr 25, 2019

Crickey, that three years has gone over quickly

Unbelievable build and achievement. Well done, mate. Keep the updates coming, especially video from observer view point so we can see the whole machine.
I trust you were ok after the end over end roll? You did make it to the finish

owl · Apr 26, 2019

300bhp/ton said:
Are you going to be at this years ALRC National?

Yes I have booked the National, are you going ?

owl · Apr 26, 2019

Al2O3 said:
Crickey, that three years has gone over quickly Unbelievable build and achievement. Well done, mate. Keep the updates coming, especially video from observer view point so we can see the whole machine.
I trust you were ok after the end over end roll? You did make it to the finish

Yes three years where has that gone ? I was fine after the roll, I only lost 15 sec's on that lap which was the first lap of 12.

Vid on my FB page https://www.facebook.com/simon.saunt.39

300bhp/ton · Apr 26, 2019

owl said:
Yes I have booked the National, are you going ?

Yes. I’m with Chiltern Vale, we aren’t co-hosting this year with Anglian. Although I’m hoping to compete in the RTV still. Must get my entry in.

Maybe catch you for a beer in the beer tent. I’ll keep an eye out for your motor.

Al2O3 · Apr 26, 2019

owl said:
Yes three years where has that gone ? I was fine after the roll, I only lost 15 sec's on that lap which was the first lap of 12.

Vid on my FB page https://www.facebook.com/simon.saunt.39

Ah, I'm not on Facebook. At 54, apparently I'm too young

Brown · May 1, 2019

You certainly manage to get quite a turn of speed out of that machine, and it seems very capable, even though you're working it hard. It's stood the test of time too.

jai_landrover · May 5, 2019

We do need a beer in the beer tent!!

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