steadyaway

steadyaway

Active Member
Just set out all full of beans for the first job of the New Year, changing the front lower shock bushes. Got all wraped up against the cold, all the tackle laid out and ready. Got the Disco up in the air, removed the front wheel nuts, pulled the wheel and........pulled some more.........hit it with a big hammer and a block of wood......pulled some more but it still wont come off!!!!!
Anyone got any sneaky tips?
Cheers
 
I think your just going to have to work your way around the wheel with the wood and hammer.......unless you can get something in to lever against the tyre, carefull what you push against.

Nick.
 
When you eventually get it off I always put a light smear of copper ease on the contact points so it isn't so likely to 'stick'......doesn't always work but gives you a better chance of it not happening again. Apart from that just do what njh2 suggest and it will eventually come off.
 
As Above^^ Or if you can get a lever between the wheel spokes try levering it off. (Wrap Lever in cloth to protect wheel.)
 
Big **** off hammer and wood.

when you re fit put some copper ease on the hub to make it easier next time.;)
 
Comedy help......simply drive at speed until horrendous vibration commences, remove wheels :D
 
Cheers Nick, been trying that for about an hour but no sign of any movement. I wondered if there was anything strong enough inboard of the wheel to use my bottle jack to push against to try to push it off?
 
could sound stupid but are you sure you've all the nuts off? allways see apprentices doing that,. If all help fails ,try a bigger hammer
 
I usually use copperslip but had the tyres changed a while ago and never got round to putting some on this time. Dohhh!
I've considered the comedy help in desperation!
 
id be tempted to put the wheel nuts back on half a turn from tight and drive a few yards with a bit of a wiggle on
 
Update:
I still havn't managed to get the wheels off, but many thanks for all the suggestions. I have decided to take it back to the tyre bay as they were the last ones to touch it. They need freeing, after all what happens in the event of a flat tyre?
I have however managed to do the bush with a bit of a struggle folding myself around a 18" wheel and tyre!
 
Last time this happened to me I resorted to kicking the tyre hard repeatedly! Not really recommended but the wheels that I was taking of were heading for the eternal depths of the shed (then got stolen anyway)
 
Having been there and done that (unable to get the wheel off on the side of the road) i usually tell the tyre people that i will tighten up the knut's or redo them when i get home just so's i know.......you feel such a spanner on the side of the road.

Nick.
 
The professional tyre changers use a large sledge hammer on the tyre part of the wheel and hit untill the wheel comes off
 
njh2 said:
Having been there and done that (unable to get the wheel off on the side of the road) i usually tell the tyre people that i will tighten up the knut's or redo them when i get home just so's i know.......you feel such a spanner on the side of the road.

Nick.
Click to expand...

This is a problem I often come up against on the roadside. I carry a dead blow hammer or two especially for this purpose as I found that they were far more effective than a block of wood and a lump hammer. I have still come across vehicles that have taken 5 minutes worth of continuos bating to get the wheel off.
 
ovalandrover said:
The professional tyre changers use a large sledge hammer on the tyre part of the wheel and hit untill the wheel comes off
Click to expand...

I wouldn't call that proffesional. The proffesional breakdown guys use a dead blow hammer on the tyre edge of the wheel rim.;)
 
I had this problem before and it took forever to remove the rear wheels when i replaced my air springs. The problem is with alloy wheels is they seem to get wet in the area between the wheel and hub and you will get a form of ally corrodsion which looks like white gritty powder on the face which makes contact with the steel hub. (Winter driving and salt on roads are to blame)

Aluminum is typically a reactive metal in the galvanic series. This means that in many cases, when it is in contact with other metals, aluminum will act as the anode and may begin
to corrode. Although this process may take many years to yield signs of degradation, it is very easy to preclude. As a preventative measure, whenever possible, aluminum should be isolated from other metals with a non-absorbent, non-conductive, insulator like bitumastic paints or polymer sleeves and washers.
Click to expand...
I got a small wire brush and with a Mask on (Very important, Because the dust is dangerous) I removed as much as i could so it was as smooth as it could be, Then as recommended Copper Grease, so it protects

Good luck
 
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