I gotta TD5 Disco ... is there any reason why not to fit a whole series of HiClowns in a row one after the other? Would I be able to get the engine revs down to 1,500 at 70 mph if I fitted ten HiClowns?
CharlesY
PASTMASTER
Well-Known Member
Is that negative or positive Hiclowns CharlesY?
Oh Gawd, are there two polarities of HiClowns?
How do you tell them apart? Red and Black? + and - ???
Maybe they are the same but fitted the other way round to make them suit positive earth cars?
It looks like being a lot less expensive than an overdrive unit anyway.
CharlesY
borntobemild
Active Member
Hiclones, you either love 'em or hate 'em, bit like Marmite and some folk would have you believe that Marmite would work just as well.
I was buying my set from DLS in Wirksworth and asked the guy behind the counter his opinion and he told me that the Hiclone salesman who came to them had fitted about a dozen all along the air ways including several in the exhaust in his Defender TD5. Smoothest sounding engine he ever heard and the salesman said that fuel consumption vastly improved. Of course he'd say that but his point was it is not practical or economical to do what he did,they didn't cost the salesman anything, but one or two in the right place could improve things and thats my position.
Engine does imediately run smoother and quieter and there is a definite decrease in fuel consumption but I'm not trying to sell you these things just tell it like I find it.
I was buying my set from DLS in Wirksworth and asked the guy behind the counter his opinion and he told me that the Hiclone salesman who came to them had fitted about a dozen all along the air ways including several in the exhaust in his Defender TD5. Smoothest sounding engine he ever heard and the salesman said that fuel consumption vastly improved. Of course he'd say that but his point was it is not practical or economical to do what he did,they didn't cost the salesman anything, but one or two in the right place could improve things and thats my position.
Engine does imediately run smoother and quieter and there is a definite decrease in fuel consumption but I'm not trying to sell you these things just tell it like I find it.
okay lets look at this logically
1)if the thing is that great why are all the top tuning people not using them-ralliart etc
2)Like the fuel magnets-if they worked then manufacturers would fit them
3)bet the rep's car sounded quiet as the inlet and exhaust would act like baffles
4)the hiclone website rolling road tests are bollocks, now I don't deny the rolling road tests-but the way they are fitted for testing has removed required pipework and filtering for road use.
5)without the hiclone and pipework removed they don't post results-I wonder why?
1)if the thing is that great why are all the top tuning people not using them-ralliart etc
2)Like the fuel magnets-if they worked then manufacturers would fit them
3)bet the rep's car sounded quiet as the inlet and exhaust would act like baffles
4)the hiclone website rolling road tests are bollocks, now I don't deny the rolling road tests-but the way they are fitted for testing has removed required pipework and filtering for road use.
5)without the hiclone and pipework removed they don't post results-I wonder why?
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PASTMASTER
Well-Known Member
If unsure use the Universal application - come in white with alternate black/red buttons.
sunbeam alpine
New Member
Reviving this thread as I also have the problem of a TD5 which no longer pulls as it should.
The problem started after I broke down about 6 weeks ago. The engine cut out like I had run out of fuel. In fact, the 30A fuse powering the fuel pump had blown. Replacing it with the fuse from the electric windows enabled me to get home, and then to my garage (LR Independent specialist). I could drive, but the engine wasn't pulling smoothly - I could only get up to 90 kmh. I had to leave the trailer I was pulling for a friend to collect - the engine wasn't developing much power at all.
On the advice of the LR specialist we changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, and the small block on the side of the motor where the fuel lines connect (this had a slight leak which I hadn't noticed). The car goes OK, but doesn't pull like it did before I broke down.
When I disconnect the MAF, the car goes just the same - not better, not worse. Does this mean that it is defective? Or should I be looking elsewhere?
The problem started after I broke down about 6 weeks ago. The engine cut out like I had run out of fuel. In fact, the 30A fuse powering the fuel pump had blown. Replacing it with the fuse from the electric windows enabled me to get home, and then to my garage (LR Independent specialist). I could drive, but the engine wasn't pulling smoothly - I could only get up to 90 kmh. I had to leave the trailer I was pulling for a friend to collect - the engine wasn't developing much power at all.
On the advice of the LR specialist we changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, and the small block on the side of the motor where the fuel lines connect (this had a slight leak which I hadn't noticed). The car goes OK, but doesn't pull like it did before I broke down.
When I disconnect the MAF, the car goes just the same - not better, not worse. Does this mean that it is defective? Or should I be looking elsewhere?
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Scan it then u'll see
LandyAndy1965
New Member
Hi Borntobemild,
i just bought a TD5 ES that is having turbo problems i think(revs miss at high revs?!?), it sounds like i need to do some or all of what you have. as i'm a newby to Land Rovers and amateur mechanics, could you help em out? What do i need to buy and where from?, someone also suggested checking my wastegate as a strater and WD40'ing it if it's stuck, where do i find it? do i also need to replace the ECU wiring as i keep hearing about?
Sorry to ask so much, i just need some help to get me started as a Disco owner! i have a Haynes manual that i just bought though
Andy
i just bought a TD5 ES that is having turbo problems i think(revs miss at high revs?!?), it sounds like i need to do some or all of what you have. as i'm a newby to Land Rovers and amateur mechanics, could you help em out? What do i need to buy and where from?, someone also suggested checking my wastegate as a strater and WD40'ing it if it's stuck, where do i find it? do i also need to replace the ECU wiring as i keep hearing about?
Sorry to ask so much, i just need some help to get me started as a Disco owner! i have a Haynes manual that i just bought though
Andy
thebiglad
Well-Known Member
Hi Borntobemild,
i just bought a TD5 ES that is having turbo problems i think(revs miss at high revs?!?), it sounds like i need to do some or all of what you have. as i'm a newby to Land Rovers and amateur mechanics, could you help em out? What do i need to buy and where from?, someone also suggested checking my wastegate as a strater and WD40'ing it if it's stuck, where do i find it? do i also need to replace the ECU wiring as i keep hearing about?
Sorry to ask so much, i just need some help to get me started as a Disco owner! i have a Haynes manual that i just bought though
Andy
With these electronically managed engines, theyre are real benefits from being 'read' by a diagnostic device such as Nano Evo or Hawkeye, so you know exactly what each of the engines components are doing and therefore make the judgement about whether they are 'in range' or not.
TD5, 2002, 120k miles. Couldn't see where else to post so...having read here that the MAF needs to be cleaned when left in situ, today I did so. It was already clean but I also had a look at the rubber pipe between the MAF/turbo. It was split by 2" around an upper union jub clip where a small round flat device about 2" dia was fitted. Not sure yet what this thing is but I thought it odd that the engine has been acting fine despite drawing air from this split for some time by the look of it. Ho hum.
yet what this thing is but I thought it odd that the engine has been acting fine despite drawing air from this split for some time by the look of it. Ho hum.Millertime_9
Active Member
I might just be getting used to the car and the gearbox but I'm convinced it's under powered
I am proud of myself, went out and cleaned the MAP sensor which was oily as anything inside (followed a tutorial on here)
Now to the maf sensor... is the "sensor" the whole unit?
Before I take it out to clean I will try just unplugging it
How do you "unplug" it though, which one plug do you take out for that?
Thanks
I am proud of myself, went out and cleaned the MAP sensor which was oily as anything inside (followed a tutorial on here)
Now to the maf sensor... is the "sensor" the whole unit?
Before I take it out to clean I will try just unplugging it
How do you "unplug" it though, which one plug do you take out for that?
Thanks
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Obviously you disconnect the electrical connector... push down the metal clip and pull the plug out ... the sensor is together with the housing
Millertime_9
Active Member
Haha missed me??
Ok so literally just the electrical connector, don't need to take the unit out?
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
You have to take it out if you want to clean the sensing element but use only dedicated spray for that, something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CRC-250M...014038&hash=item4ae20227aa:g:~QQAAOSwqVBZZfj-
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
If the engine runs better with it unplugged you need a new one
Millertime_9
Active Member
Once I have this out where do I spray the cleaner?
In through the mesh side or the back?
Does that come apart any more than it is in the pic?
Thanks as always
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Spray through the open side directly on the sensing wires
