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Mike Whiskey

New Member

• Nov 17, 2007

• #1

Well I'm at a loss now.

I had experienced the odd refusal to start, which was cured by turning off, and then arming and disarming the alarm, and was thinking that I would soon be needing to replace the spider.

So I was not surprised when the truck just refused to open, or close on the plip and the immobilser was stuck on.

Having ripped apart the dash, and fitted one of those natty bypass plugs, I was disappointed to still get no response.

The EKA code worked, but then there was a clicking sond from the passenger footwell. Now the Alarm sounds, or pings, or dies, and the central locking and other electrics appear completely dead.

All fuses are still in tact. Every so often the clicking will stop and I'll have power, or i wont.

The clicking is coming from a slim green box which I assume is the alarm module.

Do I need a new one, and if so will I need a main stealer to re-programme the whole thing for me?

Bloody cars!

MW

 

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Mike Whiskey

New Member

• Nov 19, 2007

• #2

Curiouser and curiouser.
Having unplugged the main module, and cleaned all the contacts, all seemed well.

Then tonight, car completely died. All electrics dead. No lights, nothing. few mins later the alarm was trying to work, but the relay was chattering away.

I wondered if it was some kind of battery problem, so disconnected it, and then tried re-connecting it. All back to working order. I had to input the EKA then re-synch the plip, but it behavinglike normal again.

Is this an alarm problem or have i got some sort of dodgy cut off solenoid?

MW

 

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discovery01k

New Member

• Nov 24, 2007

• #3

what alarm brand is this ?
disconnecting all the cables some times is a bad idea there is a relay that custs the starter power look for that relay at the ignition harness and remove it there is going to be one heavy gauge wire that needs to be plug back
good luck

 

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hondahooligan

New Member

• Nov 25, 2007

• #4

My alternator failed recently which discharged the battery. The central locking would not work so i opened door with key. When I got in, there was a chattering noise from relay under dash and the alarm was beeping intermittantly. Maybe you have a bad earth to the alarm system? Just a thought.

 

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Mike Whiskey

New Member

• Nov 25, 2007

• #5

Now i've started to think it is not an alarm problem but something to do with power instead.

The battery never seems discharged, but sometimes there is an alternator whine on the radio, and this always seems to happen, and get worse, before we have an alarm 'episode', with car dead, or alarm chattering etc.

When 'dead', the car is totally electrically dead. No interior light, power to anything at all.

Sometimes this recovers by itself, sometimes I have to disconnect and re-connect the battery earth before it will come back on properly. Once on properly, if the plip won't work, the EKA does, and then the plip canbe re-synched.

Thinking now that the alarm is actually ok, but is responding adversely to the power problem.

Is this a failure mode of the alternator, or can someone suggest anything else?

thanks for all the suggestions so far.

MW

 

dingwalldemon

Member

• May 6, 2008

• #6

I have this exact same problem and am pulling my hair out!
Had the spider replaced 3 weeks ago so i know thats not the problem.
Did you or does anyone else know the cause of this fault?

 

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Mike Whiskey

New Member

• May 6, 2008

• #7

My apologies, I should have posted a reply to myself once the problem was sorted.

I discovered that the positive supply to the underbonnet fusebox was bad. Two cables come from the positive terminal. A heavy one going down to the starter, and a smaller one going to the fusebox. This one was intermittently giving normal continuity, a high resistance, or no continuity at all.

Once replaced, I've never had another problem.

Hope this helps

MW

 

dingwalldemon

Member

• May 7, 2008

• #8

Thanks for that MW. What i've done is run an additional wire from the positive to the fuse box in the hope that if the original fault happens it will bypass it. You have been a great help, i'm nearly bald from the hairloss of trying to rectify this fault!. All appears well so far and i'll get back with regards to this. The additional wire is temp until i go and buy a repalcement.
Thanks again
Regards

 

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kaumeyer

New Member

• Jul 9, 2008

• #9

My battery completely died and I have no power. I put in a new baqttery a few weeks ago, but it has died again. I charged the battery and it worked for a few days and now after letting it sit for two days the battery is dead agian. I have a short somewhere but no idea any thoughts?