EntropyUK said:
That's what I was thinking about @kermit_rr . You replace the condenser take it to be filled and there are further leaks in the system. So you have to go back to have the system charged again and sort the leaks out. I just wondered f there was a way to test an empty system at home before taking it to the specialists, i.e. a cheap check that there are no gaping leaks in the system.
Click to expand...
You can test it at home if you have a vacuum pump & gauge:rolleyes: Normal practice is to do a vacuum test, if no leaks it gets refilled preferably including a tracer dye. Some like Kwik Fit used to do it free if it leaks after passing a vac test.
 
They have to do a leak test before filling it. Tell them what you've done and they'll bung a UV dye in first to see where it leaks.
 
Kwik fit will test for leaks and if it does, they won't charge you.
If it doesn't leak and they fill it and it still doesn't work, they will suck out the gas and not charge you.
You only get charged when it works properly.
 
Interesting thread guys, I shall be looking to get Buttercups system working soon, knew when I bought her that the air con was duff in some manner as the belt was missing, allegedly it had bust some time before and not been replaced. Wouldn't have bet the farm on that statement, but wanted the car anyway.
So 1st job replace the belt (the pump does turn by hand) and take it to garage for a test. They usually have an offer on in June so just waiting for that.
 
kermit_rr said:
The middle bit turned with 2 fingers, no effort required, just a glug of liquid somewhere
Click to expand...
Sounds good, if I remember correctly there is one wire from compressor up to a connector on the inner wing if you put 12 volts on the wire down to the compressor the clutch should pull in, maybe not the right way to do things but it would prove it should work.
 
I know this is resurrecting an old thread, but....

Otto went in for his service / etc and a regas, they said he was leaky on the aircon so no game. Going to give a good check over (compressor turns, broken pipes, etc but suspecting the condenser from the threads I've been browsing. Could have been open for ages. @kermit_rr - did your system behave after the new bits and regas, or was it a bit of a waste of time? Don't want to throw time and £100-150 plus regas fee at it if it will possibly be pear shaped a few months later. Especially if delving in to that pipework means I then find something else horrible to throw money at too!
 
Scotiawhiskers said:
I know this is resurrecting an old thread, but....

Otto went in for his service / etc and a regas, they said he was leaky on the aircon so no game. Going to give a good check over (compressor turns, broken pipes, etc but suspecting the condenser from the threads I've been browsing. Could have been open for ages. @kermit_rr - did your system behave after the new bits and regas, or was it a bit of a waste of time? Don't want to throw time and £100-150 plus regas fee at it if it will possibly be pear shaped a few months later. Especially if delving in to that pipework means I then find something else horrible to throw money at too!
Click to expand...
Erm.. I've not managed to get to an aircon garage yet. The only decent one is miles away and works short hours
 
pete12345 said:
Probably easier to get yourself a vacuum pump and a set of gauges Hoover it out and see if it holds the pressure
Click to expand...
They are dear and how often would i use it? Lol
Plus i don't want to willy about with measuring oil into different bits.
I don't have the tools to blank off bits while i do a flush either :(
 
I imagine that any amount of oil is better than none, and will spread through the system anyway. Then get dragged out on the vac test.

I'll have a look round my system this weekend or next hopefully. See what it needs and also if I can source / bodge some sort of vacuum and gauge system to connect. Maybe just disconnect the condenser, plug one pipe and vac off the other for simplicity to test everything but that. If it is getting a new condenser then no need to include that in the test. Or maybe try vac-ing that separately.

If I wanted to flush through to try to make sure it was dry, I presume carefully bleeding some of my TIG argon might do it?
I'll keep you posted on it Kermie, maybe start my own thread to follow through the whole thing.
 
Scotiawhiskers said:
I imagine that any amount of oil is better than none, and will spread through the system anyway. Then get dragged out on the vac test.

I'll have a look round my system this weekend or next hopefully. See what it needs and also if I can source / bodge some sort of vacuum and gauge system to connect. Maybe just disconnect the condenser, plug one pipe and vac off the other for simplicity to test everything but that. If it is getting a new condenser then no need to include that in the test. Or maybe try vac-ing that separately.

If I wanted to flush through to try to make sure it was dry, I presume carefully bleeding some of my TIG argon might do it?
I'll keep you posted on it Kermie, maybe start my own thread to follow through the whole thing.
Click to expand...
I don't know what they use as a flush, just that you don't flush the pump or drier or condenser. If i recall.
If you're taking stuff off then (again just my understanding) you're best putting a new drier on at the point you're ready to gas it up
 
I’m not sure but when you add new refrigerant it has the oil in it but would have to check
 
I got mine re gassed at a.t.s ,, after i fitted a condenser ,it was an auto machine vac down for leaks, then adds oil and then the gas £60 notes i think :eek:, i have herd of people using butane gas ,:rolleyes: don't know how or if it works but it supposed to be cold ...:D
 
I wouldn't be so paranoid if it hadn't been left open for so many years, there could be spiders, snakes, a whole eco system in there
 
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