Just get the EAS working properly then there is no need for bloody silly work rounds.

I did get it working properly :) - it was a useful diagnostic tool that identified the faulty delay timer while I was waiting for my nanocom to arrive, replaced the timer and it's all worked as it should ever since. :)

A
 
Just get the EAS working properly then there is no need for bloody silly work rounds.

The point of that thread is not a silly work around, it's to disable the nonsensical self-levelling that occurs when the car is sitting unused. There is no good reason why the car needs to do that just because I park on uneven ground and then it just has to lift itself up to normal height when I start the engine.
 
The point of that thread is not a silly work around, it's to disable the nonsensical self-levelling that occurs when the car is sitting unused. There is no good reason why the car needs to do that just because I park on uneven ground and then it just has to lift itself up to normal height when I start the engine.

There is a good reason or the self level would not be fitted. Thought the thread was about how fast the car should rise. Maybe i have misread it. :D
 
Lots of great info exchanged. Many thanks again.
The story is that if there is a leak anywhere in the springs or tank or tubes, the car due to its weight would go down fairly fast. When it goes down like mine (1999 HSC model) in one and a half to two days on a flat ground, I understand it that it is loosing pressure somewhere in the system considering the fact that it does not raise as fast as it was said (10-30 sec) as well. So the tank must be loosing pressure and if I understand well from all info kindly supplied I need to look at the NRVs. Anything else?
Where is The delay timer placed?
Kindly confirm
 
I checked with soapy water and had a leak in the first tube going in the block with number 6 on the side. Changed o-rings and colet and the car went up fairly fast from empty. Big difference. Will check to see how long will stay up for. Left rear door open as I did not have the proper relay to change. Further to this I also see some bubbles out of the rear tubes with labels 1 & 2. I believe they have to do with springs, I don't know if they are front or rear. I suspect rear. My next project will be to change these o-rings. A bit tricky without taking out the valve block.
 
I checked with soapy water and had a leak in the first tube going in the block with number 6 on the side. Changed o-rings and colet and the car went up fairly fast from empty. Big difference. Will check to see how long will stay up for. Left rear door open as I did not have the proper relay to change. Further to this I also see some bubbles out of the rear tubes with labels 1 & 2. I believe they have to do with springs, I don't know if they are front or rear. I suspect rear. My next project will be to change these o-rings. A bit tricky without taking out the valve block.

(1) Red coded pipe. Rear left.

(2) Blue code. Rear right.

(3) Plain pipe no code. Front Left.

(4) Green code. Front Right.

(6) Feed to tank.

(5) and (7) 8mm pipe can only leak when compressor is filling tank.
 

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