Yes, there are two bent pipes on the tank, but have you checked it by running it from a can, to a pipe connected to the IN side of the lift pump?
If you do this test and it runs better, then there MUST be an "air IN" leak between the fuel in the tank and the lift pump.
If the bent elbows on the tank are the problem, a good slobbering of silicone should fix it.
Update guys, this morning I have peeled back all the flooring and had a look at the elbows on the sender unit. They have seen better days and to check if the problem is there I've taped them up to try and seal them a bit. If it does make a difference i'll buy a new one. Also i've cleaned out the sedimentor and i lmost hurled when i dropped it down and saw the crap inside it. Needless to say it's all shiny and clean under there now. Right off to work i go yet again and the test will be my commute. Fingers crossed guys lets hope something improves otherwise i'll just have to limp by till she goes to the mechanic next tuesday.
On another note i have to say the advice on here has been a huge help thank you to all who have had input. Fixed or not i definately know a fair bit about my fuel system now.
On another note i have to say the advice on here has been a huge help thank you to all who have had input. Fixed or not i definately know a fair bit about my fuel system now.
Update time guys, right I started off my looking at the sender unit and finding the elbowas had seen better days so as a test i wrapped them up in electrical tape (may even cover with silicon as suggested), then i dropped the sedimentor and gave it a good clean before replacing. Right results time......... She is still a bit of a bugger to get started but the one thing that seems to have stopped is the dropping off when idling and the stalling at junctions. On my drive to work today she quite happily sat in queues. Although as a precaution i had upted the idle speed a couple of hundred revs and she seems to be quite happy once started. I'm even considering putting the idle speed back down in the morning. Any other suggestions for the starting issue won't fall on deaf ears.
I would like to add a massive thank you to all who have helped out here even if she not 100% better i've learnt loads and as painful as it is to admit i think i will keep the mechanics appointment next tuesday. And i'll definately post what he says and does to my Bessie.
I would like to add a massive thank you to all who have helped out here even if she not 100% better i've learnt loads and as painful as it is to admit i think i will keep the mechanics appointment next tuesday. And i'll definately post what he says and does to my Bessie.
is it old, knackered, or just not man enough for the job WOAH!!!!
How are you adjusting the idle speed?
Are you tightening the throttle cable?
Adjusting the lever-stop?
Send a pic of the top of your injection pump looking down on it.
All i've done to increase the revs is tighten the trottle cable a little to hold the revs higher. I have since dropped it back as it was and during running seems to be fine although on the way to work today it had 1 minor hiccup and dropped the idle like it was about to stall but didn't.
As for the glow plug idea my thoughts are now heading in that direction as last night upon leaving work she was a proper pig to get going and i stopped turning over reset the ignition and redid the glow plugs and she seemed to fire pretty much straight away. I've yet to retest this theory later and will give the glow plugs a couple of turns of the key before trying to fire her up. i'm definately keeping my mechanics appointment though cos think this is going a little outside of my comfort zone.
As for the glow plug idea my thoughts are now heading in that direction as last night upon leaving work she was a proper pig to get going and i stopped turning over reset the ignition and redid the glow plugs and she seemed to fire pretty much straight away. I've yet to retest this theory later and will give the glow plugs a couple of turns of the key before trying to fire her up. i'm definately keeping my mechanics appointment though cos think this is going a little outside of my comfort zone.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
replace sender unit £60ish run pipe to bypass sedimentor job done i have to do them regulary dont need sedimentor you have drainable filter in engine bay easy way to by pass sedimentor with 8mm hose pushed over cut pipe in wheel arch from sedimentor lead through to sender unit return pip dosent need touching unless obviously leaking
Update guys....... my fuel light has just come on (well on my way home from work the other night) so this morning i went to fill her up and she was a complete pig again. Kept stalling out at junctions and just ran really lumpy. I've come to the conclusion that the lift pump could be to blame and because fuel was so low it struggled. Since putting 40 notes in the tank she ran like a peach again so i think the gravity of the fuel was hiding the problem. Anyway she in the garage on tuesday and i will relay everything i've tried to the mechanic and see what he says. Will update when i get her back later in the week.
Discodave2011
Active Member
Hi, i now have a similar problem, cured air in fuel line problem & was running fine until er in doors filled up tank & now got lumpy tick over & lumpy at around 2000rpm when reved stationary, also sometimes nearly cuts out when pulling away at junctions!! But fine driving at speed. Did ask if she filled up with petrol but got a thick ear as reply lol.
Discodave2011
Active Member
Have recently fitted new filter & lift pump & cleaned sedimenter.
Update guys..... have just had the call from the garage and they clueless. to be honest i don't think they even looked at her. I gave them details of everything i had done so far and told them my suspicions. At 4pm they hadn't found time to look at her and now 5pm they say they can't find anything and recommend a specialist diagnostic centre. Can't see how plugging in a mechanical fuel system to a computer will help but hey ho. Plus side the mechanic hasn't charged for today (enforcing the not actually looked at it theory) I'm tempted to buy a lift pump anyway and replace as current one feels like there no resistance off the diaphragm. Any other suggestions guys????????
Discodave2011
Active Member
Have you tried a quick turn of the key as cam needs to be in certain position for lift pump to operate manually.
Lyndon
Active Member
the lift pump is 15 quid and 4 bolts to change did mine in a carpark when it died on me the other day in less than an hour, just be carefull when undoing the high pressure fittings as landrover dont sell them anymore so a scrappy is the only place you can find them. ( if its a 200 tdi) its well worth a change just to knock it off your list.
