tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Oh yeah,we believe you!Well spotted
Not my cup though,
you can trust us if you want to come clean,"Let it go Let it go" you can trust us if you want to come clean,"Let it go Let it go" 
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
Oh yeah,we believe you!
I far prefer The beauty and the beast mug I have, or is it "the beauty of bestiality?"
memory is hazy
PLEASE!
For your wallets sake don't buy DUNLOP!!!
Believe it or not Dunlop isn't the OE supplier for EAS compressors the original P38 compressor is a slightly modified version of the thomas 315 compressor.
After some investigation into mine It appeared that Dunlop in their wisdom used brass for the flywheel/weight on the compressor conrod.
Mine rattled like a bastard and the piston ring fell apart + it seemed to rattle apart
I think I've worked out what caused the failure on mine IMO it was a loose grub screw which caused the motor to spin, catch it, get off balance etc. Or whether it happened from the other side. The armature has a couple of big lumps of resin on it which I've never seem in an OEM one before whether it was to try and balance it from the factory who knows - but if it's actually caused it to run off balance, then it will have work the front bearing which there is some play in and the possibly vibrated the grub screw loose, and gouged out the brass conrod which explained the swarf and the noise prior to failure!
Here are some pics of my "new" compressor.
And the same compressor 3 weeks later.
The armature was also scraping against the magnets in the body of the motor.
It was a right mess.
I sent it back to Rimmers and got a refund that was a £200 mistake!
To get the EAS working properly I replaced it with a rebuilt unit from a chap on ebay "Original Landy Air" a top chap who supplied a fully rebuilt compressor for around £88 IIRC
Another little thing often missed is the orientation of the washers the compressor sits on..
From factory the P38 had Concave washers, these are often lost/misplaced or more often than not put in upside down!
This caused the Compressor to vibrate and it becomes audible from inside the cab, which in turn triggers "EAS paranoia" which i'm convinced is come kind of mental condition!
My washers were flat, a good smack with a ball pean fixed that..
The right orientation is...
Top washer goes CONCAVE SIDE UP
Bottom washer goes CONCAVE SIDE DOWN
What is also important is the 8mm nuts that secure the compressor only need to be just above hand tight, too tight end it'll make a noise...
Yes i'm sad...
LOL
I should add the reason I replaced the original OE compressor with a Dunlop one was due to the original burning out due to a pretty severe leak I had on the storage side of the EAS system, the diaphragm was completely blown so the compressor was working constantly..
It was rebuilt in 2010 by the PO and lasted until the thick end of 2019 so not bad..
No i didn't buy it it was on it and waiting for a kit for it and take it from there, many thanks for taking the time to write all that ect it's much appreciated. When this kit packs up i'll just get another compressor not a kit, so stay away from Dunlop i see you mention a Tomas make or look for this original landy air on ebay.
Soapy water..
Probably due a Valveblock rebuild too, just for precautionary maintenance.
It's fun..
Honest.
Christ i hope i don't need to rebuild this too, sounds like it's never ending with these
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
The valve blocks are not to bad to rebuild you just need to be methodical and take your time, there are lots of pics and vids and help from on here, or if your that worried speak to Kurtjohnson on there he has ones every now and them.
Regarding the compressor mounts, there's a lot of crap part out there. If you check the Suspension TSB in RAVE there's a new updated set of compressor mounts plus specifics about flat & concave washers. I changed mine and the noise level dropped significantly.
The new parts are RVL100000 x 2 (front) & RVL100010 x 1 (Rear). The central bush now has a flange on it and provides better support for the rubber.
EDIT# have now attached hte relevant TSB.
The older version sags when the rubber gets warm, and allows the pump brackets to vibrate against the washers.
The new parts are RVL100000 x 2 (front) & RVL100010 x 1 (Rear). The central bush now has a flange on it and provides better support for the rubber.
EDIT# have now attached hte relevant TSB.
The older version sags when the rubber gets warm, and allows the pump brackets to vibrate against the washers.
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