jamesmartin said:

you need another change over , it can fill one tank quite quickly from return with a diesel engine

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That's what I was thinking. But they are reasonable rare now I believe.

i've heard those original valves can give no end of trouble when used on a diesel, sucking air in

i personally would go for reliability over originality every day

you can leave the manual valve in situ just to look the part and still use a pair of pollack valves off the guage change over switch

Cleaned my hand brake and give it a coat of red oxide second coat of red oxide on chassis bits and a coat of black on fuel tank.

So been very busy in work the last few weeks and not had a chance to do anything. Few days of "sick" after getting some teeth out has meant I could go shopping today. Got 2 new Delphi rear cylinders, prop nuts and bolts hand brake clevis and pin, clutch flexi, pull through wheel studs (as suggested) for my knackered front hubs, bleed nipples for front cylinders, ordered switch for fuel change over and got my fuel line fittings. The fuel line fittings are NOT UNF as the tinterweb would have you believe but infact BSP. So should be a busy Sunday for us. My dad has finished touching up paint on the chassis and done 3 more coats of the fuel tank.

We had a busy wee day yesterday. New Delphi rear cylinders fitted. Got the pull through(hammer in) studs into my front hubs. Rebuilt front and rear wheels finished brakes. Which seem to work a treat. Got it off the axel stands and back on its wheel. So so happy to see that. Got fuel tank remounted and new fuel lines botched up just needing secured and possibly trimmed.

Put the rear prop in. It's a bit tricky. But as it was on stands at the time I was able to spin the prop easy enough.

Went to put front prop in. Connect it to transfer box fine. Bit fiddly but got there. Went to connect to the front axle only to find the hole spacing is different!! I thought they where all the same centres. Can anyone enlighten me.

Have you tried turning it 90 degrees as holes are different on yoke .

Blackburn said:

Have you tried turning it 90 degrees as holes are different on yoke .

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No cause I would have thought the plate on the input of the diff would have been square. Will have a look this weekend.

So turned prop 90 and hey presto. Thank you for that. Fitted new clutch master cylinder and a plate to hold the flexi. Going to make a short copper link to the flexi next week.

So been busy in work and we are a few weeks behind. Clutch all done and working after a seized slave and new master cylinder. Still a bit rubbing but shouldn't be hard to sort. Sorting the slave involved a lot of brute force and a jump on the pedal.

Picked up my new hoses today for pas and inter cooler so hopefully have engine running on Monday as I have ended up with a whole week off.

So put new hoses in her tonight. Tried to turn it over and agghhh. Seems the starter is fubard. Spins sometimes when it's out of the engine. When I stick it in the solenoid clicks and some times it gives a bit of a turn but nothing meaningful.

So of on the hunt for a new starter. I know it's the same as a 200 and 300 but is it in any other vans or anything?

Are you sure you have good earth connections from battery to engine?

It's jump leads from battery directly to starter/solenoid.

Then the question is are they good quality ones ?
Starter takes a large current and unless good cross sectional area on the jump leads they give a large volt drop at starter.
Brushes can be renewed in some of the starters.
Is it the original starter as teeth on flywheels vary?
Doug

Yep seems to be original. Has had a soaking at some stage. Stripped it last night and removed a lot of rust from outer windings. Also freed up bushes. It had three battery's in parallel supplying 13v. Under load it was dropping to 9.5v so that is to be expected.

Is the engine the 19J as 1st post as might be possible to replace with 200tdi starter as these are geared they turn the engine over fast , making starting easy.
Worth doing a google search of the subject sure I have come across this before.
This post talks about it being done in reverse http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f48/will-19j-starter-motor-fit-200tdi-series-one-205593.html

It's the same starter in 19j 200 and 300. So wont have a problem getting a starter. Have left mine in with local auto spark. He thinks possible gear problem. He is going to test and let me know.

Hey so it's been a few weeks. Been holidaying and working so not much time on my Landy lately. So went and picked up starter today from auto spark all fixed and working. New armature £34 and cleaned of rust. Got her in and turning. Engine turns over(not quickly as battery was half flat) fuel lines all bleed(after realising the tank and filter where the wrong way about on the lift pump). Even though she was cranking fast enough to catch I was still getting a few puffs of smoke. Went and bought some 40mm cable and battery connectors and a new charger. Hoping to have it running tomorrow minus the rad as I'm waiting on a new one coming.

So busy few days. Got starter wired on 40mm cable with correct lugs on starter and battery. Some 25mm cable for the ground. Nice fully charged battery. Connected glow plugs and fuel solenoid to battery and hay presto started after only a few turns. Few puffs of black smoke then white then clear. Engine sounds and runs perfect even after laying for at least two years unused. Got new adaptors for the inter cooler pipes so now no oil leaks.

Had to modify the radiator panel. The 2.5td seems a bit longer than the 2.25. As I want to keep the original fan I decided I needed to move the rad. I cut the top of the panel about 70mm into it and the drivers side top where it joins. This allowed me to bend the drivers out to allow me to push rad forward about 40-50mm. The passenger side I made a plate to go from rad to rad panel so I could use all the original bolt holes and drilled new ones on the drivers side.

The next thing was rad hose. After dicking around for ages trying to put new universal hose in without any joy. It just kept kinking. I had a look at my S3 to see how it was done. It turns out the 2.25 and 2.5 have the same mounts for the thermostat cover. The only difference is the 2.5 comes out the passenger side and the 2.25 comes out straight up. The 2.25 is slightly thinner. Nothing a few washers didn't sort. Was also able to use the bottom rad hose from the 2.25. Fitted new rad yesterday and bolted up passenger wing to support the rad panel.

Only thing left to do with the engine and mechanics is to fit exhaust, air filter and power steering hoses.

Was able to start and drive it yesterday in the yard. The only problem I had was that the clutch was stuck. Could not get it in gear running. Stopped engine put it in gear. Put transfer box in neutral. Started then put tranny box forward and bang off she went and clutch started working. In and out of gear no problems now. The only thing is a loud squeal when I am at the bite? Don't know if this is because she has been standing so long of what. Doesn't seem to be slipping too badly.





They were with old rad in place to measuring.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/z9ubrfiydcnvo01/WP_20131014_142020Z.mp4
https://www.dropbox.com/s/94spwzcmk70otou/WP_20131014_141916Z.mp4
https://www.dropbox.com/s/q1q9hbrghat3pl3/WP_20131014_140731Z.mp4
https://www.dropbox.com/s/isq1wae4skv586k/WP_20131014_132129Z.mp4

Ok so it's been quite a while. Been mentally busy in work over Christmas and it hasn't really calmed down. Had a good day on Monday with my dad and bro. Managed to get the last of the wiring pulled in. Have my underseat battery box finished minus some paint. Brother is working on that. Hoping to get that in next week. He is also starting to strip down all the unprinted body panels. Dad spent the day mounting switches on the dash panel. Hoping to get that wired up on Friday. She is still starting really well first turn even when she had been sitting for 4 weeks.