Matt DeVeants

New Member

• Jul 17, 2010

• #1

Hello,

I would like some ideas on what I could use to replace the Floor on by SIII 88" as mine is rotten and is soon to be folded into beer cans

Thanks,

Matt.

 

Pikey

Dummy Ejection Facilitator..

• Jul 17, 2010

• #2

How about another ally floor panel?? they're cheap enough to buy.

 

J

jaycraft21

New Member

• Jul 17, 2010

• #3

Hey matt, Although some may not like this idea (I know my dad don't) I'm going to lift the floor out in mine and place 3/4 (18mm) WBP ply into the base of the floor coating the underside and edges with underseal before final fitting, paint the top side and then replace the aluminium floor on top of this just to add a little more strength. If you didn't want to replace the aluminium floor i'm pretty sure the Ply would be strong enough on it's own.

just a suggestion

 

steve2286w

Well-Known Member

• Jul 17, 2010

• #4

have a look at a previous thread, i sorted mine with 2mm birmabright ally

if youre adding ply best to put it on top of the proper replacement floor


http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f6/series-iii-rear-floor-restoration-89567.html

 

C

clivees

Well-Known Member

• Jul 18, 2010

• #5

is it the floor plate or the supports ?
Both art cheep and easy to replace.

 

fenby1976

New Member

• Jul 18, 2010

• #6

Replacing the alloy floor plate is a bastard of a job even with the tub removed from the chassis. When I did it on my SIII I found there were hundreds of spotwelds and rivets to break. It might be worth considering swapping the whole tub. or just laying new plate over the old.

 

Matt DeVeants

New Member

• Jul 18, 2010

• #7

It is the alloy floor that is gone and it had been layed over and too that has rotten :suspicious: .

So I was thinking checker plate 2mm as I am going to be carry kit bags in the tub

But I was not sure if it is strong enough ever with the ribs and cross members?

And you can buy them on e-bay

 

T

TheMiddle

New Member

• Jul 18, 2010

• #8

Hi,

when i needed to replace the tub crossmembers and tub floor I ended up drilling all the way round edge because of the spot welds and leaving enough to attach some L shaple angleiron to refasten the new floor to.

Very painfull job, unless you've got good reason just go straight over the top of what's already there.

TM

 

dr pepper

New Member

• Jul 19, 2010

• #9

If you want to use wood, why not use a phenolic sheet, looks a bit and works like wood, only it dunt rot. A local geyser uses it for the floors of trailers he meks, if its good enough fer that it'll do your job.

 

C

clivees

Well-Known Member

• Jul 19, 2010

• #10

I dont understand its a easy job?
Drill out the spot welds.
Remove old floor
Remove old supports
Replace supports (Tip use axle strap cut up in to bits to sit on the supports rails)
use old floor to mark the positions of the holes
fit new floor
Using best grade pop rivits fix floor in place.
Took me a day including welding and painting the chassie rails.

 

Matt DeVeants

New Member

• Jul 20, 2010

• #11

Mr Clivees,

Could you please explain the axle strap bit, does it go between the floor and the floor supports or between the floor supports and the Chassis?

 

steve2286w

Well-Known Member

• Jul 20, 2010

• #12

the latter and it is that simple, i ground the riverts off with mini grinder and drilled from underneath for new holes although i took a weekend!

 

C

clivees

Well-Known Member

• Jul 26, 2010

• #13

Aye Between support rail and Chassis