Dopey

Dopey

Well-Known Member
Got these last week, they are so cheap compared to the originals, and the way they are constructed harder to break (you get a brake and it will just by-pass it) they are carbon, but I don't get how it bridges the 2 gaps, I cant see anything that connects them??
 

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If you look at the last pic, you can see 2 parts where there are no connections, (i don't know how to explain it ) there's nothing joining them together??
 
Look at the 2 gaps between the 3 segments, there's nothing joining them together to heat them up no electrical connection
SAM_1516.JPG
 

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From looking at the pics, the electrickery flows in/out via the main wires, which run under the orange tapes in pic SAM_1517.jpg

The heating elements run between the main wires, and are either the straight lines or the honeycomb mesh pattern. So the honeycomb mesh sections don't need to connect to each other, just to the main wires under the orange tape.

Does that make sense?

Pete
 
To me, looking at it the only way the power is going to jump the gap to get it to work, its strange
 
I put this one up to the light so you can see through the tape, do you see any wire under the tape? going the length of the cut? I don't
SAM_1517.JPG
 
What your seeing I think is why these are Superior to the land Rover single wire heaters. Only the ends of the each individual pad is connected as per btds post. This means if one segment breaks the other three still work. Bit like a front heated screen on a p38.
 
If you look at the picture where you held it up to the light - you can see a darker strip that runs through the middle of the orange tape vertically - this is the electrical connection that connects the honeycomb elements to the power source.

The power flows as per Pete's diagram above.
 
Saint.V8 said:
If you look at the picture where you held it up to the light - you can see a darker strip that runs through the middle of the orange tape vertically - this is the electrical connection that connects the honeycomb elements to the power source.

The power flows as per Pete's diagram above.
Click to expand...
:(:(:( I was rooting for the witchcraft option :(:(:(
 
In all fairness this is a pretty simple repair once you have stripped the seat cover off just use a spray contact adhesive and spray over the seat base leave the old heated seat element in place and cover it with the new heated pad connect your new power lead up to the existing feed job done, only thingg i can't see Is how temp is regulated I'm hoping by an internal thermistat somewhere. Cut out the old hog rings out when removing the leather seat base and use cables ties to reattach.

I opted to fix my burnt out elements and upgrade the stat in my p38, iv also just fixed the wife's drivers seat in her disco2 if we have any future problems I will most likley do the same as you and replace with these new types with an extra switch for x2 heat settings but for now I'm all good :D:D
 
Last edited:
The yellow strip you see are sticky tape, you peel it off and its 3M double sided tape, so it just sticks on
 
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