NikTheGeek
New Member
For the best reception, you can't get better than height and length. The longer the antenna the better, the higher up the better. So assuming you radio is actually ok, your best bet would be to drill a hole through the roof and fit an external one, routing the new coax under the headlining and down the pillar to the back of the radio.
But mine was always ok. 2001 model. There was an amp under the rear window. You could check it's getting its 12v feed when the radio is turned on. From memory, there were different elements. One for MW/LW and a couple for FM. I was always surprised by how good my LW reception of TMS was for a glass mounted antenna. Maybe a track is damaged or the coax between the radio and rear window is damaged.
I am of course assuming that it is the factory fit stereo? If not, you have a 12v feed (often marked up for a sub woofer on after market stereo's) that has to be connected to the wiring loom to feed the amp. If it is the factory fit, still check, because maybe the previous owner had a blinged-up stereo in and put the original back in prior to selling and the amp wire is not connected.
If you go for an external one, try this (you will need an extension cable for the coax):
Amplified Replacement Roof Mount Car Aerial Antenna Mast with base and wire | eBay
I can vouch for it as I have that one on my boat. Not too long (physically), amplified and the right electrical length. And it actually looks decent and looks like a factory fit. It has a nice rubber gasket and there's no water come through mine.
I really wouldn't bother trying to make one. You have to be pretty spot on to the nearest cm to get good reception on FM. Less important on LW where a random length might be ok.
Finally, the radio does the switching of the elements. Now this might depend on model, but when choosing FM it switches in the FM element, when choosing Test Match Special, it switches in the LW element. As there is only a simple coax feed, I assume the matching is done in the amp under the window. It's a simple system that measures the signal strength and adjusts. But if there's no power to the amp, damaged coax or a fault in the head unit, it won't switch. You could sort of prove this by finding that reception was ok on one band, but not the others.
BYW, Diversity was standard on the higher spec stereo in the Rover 75 so it's odd if that's not the case on the Range Rover.
Anyway, you asked for my 2p
Nik
P.S. Korean car still going strong. Other than a stuck transferbox fill plug, no faults at all!! Boring though...
But mine was always ok. 2001 model. There was an amp under the rear window. You could check it's getting its 12v feed when the radio is turned on. From memory, there were different elements. One for MW/LW and a couple for FM. I was always surprised by how good my LW reception of TMS was for a glass mounted antenna. Maybe a track is damaged or the coax between the radio and rear window is damaged.
I am of course assuming that it is the factory fit stereo? If not, you have a 12v feed (often marked up for a sub woofer on after market stereo's) that has to be connected to the wiring loom to feed the amp. If it is the factory fit, still check, because maybe the previous owner had a blinged-up stereo in and put the original back in prior to selling and the amp wire is not connected.
If you go for an external one, try this (you will need an extension cable for the coax):
Amplified Replacement Roof Mount Car Aerial Antenna Mast with base and wire | eBay
I can vouch for it as I have that one on my boat. Not too long (physically), amplified and the right electrical length. And it actually looks decent and looks like a factory fit. It has a nice rubber gasket and there's no water come through mine.
I really wouldn't bother trying to make one. You have to be pretty spot on to the nearest cm to get good reception on FM. Less important on LW where a random length might be ok.
Finally, the radio does the switching of the elements. Now this might depend on model, but when choosing FM it switches in the FM element, when choosing Test Match Special, it switches in the LW element. As there is only a simple coax feed, I assume the matching is done in the amp under the window. It's a simple system that measures the signal strength and adjusts. But if there's no power to the amp, damaged coax or a fault in the head unit, it won't switch. You could sort of prove this by finding that reception was ok on one band, but not the others.
BYW, Diversity was standard on the higher spec stereo in the Rover 75 so it's odd if that's not the case on the Range Rover.
Anyway, you asked for my 2p
Nik
P.S. Korean car still going strong. Other than a stuck transferbox fill plug, no faults at all!! Boring though...
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