Hello people


General advice needed.


I own a 2005 Landrover 2.5 v6 and the srs (airbag) light has came on and is not going away. I tried plugging in a diagnostic machine which didn’t seem to pick up any codes. Do I invest in a newer machine to have a look or is there something minor it can be I should look out before getting a new machine or taking it to a specialist ?


Thank you in advance

Mano786 said:

Hello people


General advice needed.


I own a 2005 Landrover 2.5 v6 and the srs (airbag) light has came on and is not going away. I tried plugging in a diagnostic machine which didn’t seem to pick up any codes. Do I invest in a newer machine to have a look or is there something minor it can be I should look out before getting a new machine or taking it to a specialist ?


Thank you in advance

Click to expand...

Ask this question in the freelander section,before the wolfpack descends on you,this section is anything goes,and it will.

The usual place for the SRS to fail is the rotary coupler in the steering wheel; the connection to the driver's airbag. The next place to check is under the front seats for a troublesome connector to the seatbelt pre-tensioners.
As @gemsdad has already suggested, get yourself along to the freelander section.

Moved

Mano786 said:

Hello people


General advice needed.


I own a 2005 Landrover 2.5 v6 and the srs (airbag) light has came on and is not going away. I tried plugging in a diagnostic machine which didn’t seem to pick up any codes. Do I invest in a newer machine to have a look or is there something minor it can be I should look out before getting a new machine or taking it to a specialist ?


Thank you in advance

Click to expand...

Probably connection under the seat, mine does it every so often. Where are you? I have a scanner that will connect to the SRS ecu and can reset it for you.

S1monm said:

Probably connection under the seat, mine does it every so often. Where are you? I have a scanner that will connect to the SRS ecu and can reset it for you.

Click to expand...

I’m in Luton in the United Kingdom. I appreciate that pal. Does it take a particular scanner to work on these freelanders

Mano786 said:

I’m in Luton in the United Kingdom. I appreciate that pal. Does it take a particular scanner to work on these freelanders

Click to expand...

Your miles away mate I'm in North Wales. I've got a few scanners, the easiest to use is the icarsoft i930

S1monm said:

Your miles away mate I'm in North Wales. I've got a few scanners, the easiest to use is the icarsoft i930

Click to expand...

Excellent advice. I ordered myself one. Cost me around £100 all in.

I plugged it into my motor and it shows up as a seat belt tensioner fault on the drivers seat.

What’s the best way to get this sorted. Would it be as simple as, taking the seat off, replacing the seat belt tensioner with a new one, putting it back together and clearing the code. Am I on the right track people , any advice is appreciated

the under seat airbag and pre tensioner connectors are famous for SRS warnings. There is a 50/50 chance the problem is the side of the connector on the car loom, replacing the pre tensioner will be a waste of time, as the fault will still be there.
You can either take the connectors apart and touch the pins together.
OR
Cut the connector off and replace it with block connector, or any decent connector.

I have known the problem on a un fired pre tensioner, is when someone replaced the fly lead, and did not insert it into the pre tensioner body correctly

Devilish said:

the under seat airbag and pre tensioner connectors are famous for SRS warnings. There is a 50/50 chance the problem is the side of the connector on the car loom, replacing the pre tensioner will be a waste of time, as the fault will still be there.
You can either take the connectors apart and touch the pins together.
OR
Cut the connector off and replace it with block connector, or any decent connector.

I have known the problem on a un fired pre tensioner, is when someone replaced the fly lead, and did not insert it into the pre tensioner body correctly

Click to expand...

Thank you for your advice it’s definitely helpful.

I’m a novice at doing jobs of this sort. I’m a bodywork Specialist not an electronics specialist so I’m expecting to find it a bit difficult to sort this out

When you say take the connectors apart and touch the pins together, this with the battery still on or off as I been told to dis connect the battery before I even touch anything under the seat.

Is there any diagram or web link where I can follow instructions on how to complete this task or would you be willing to give me a small brief step by step guide to solving this issue with the connectors.

Replacing the whole connector sounds a little daunting however I’m
Thinking it might be easier then I think so I might give it a shot. Are there any particular connectors that work well when Land Rover Freelanders on the 2005 Model

Battery disconnect not needed for this, but do it to be safe, and wait 15 mins before unplugging the pre tensioner.
I probably did not explain very well, fact is it could be anything the others have said, but if it is the side of the connector on the loom that comes out the floor, a new pre tensioner may not cure the fault. You have used a icarsoft, so you know more than you think, when you look at the connector, you will think, 'is that it, bloody Devilish made it sound like diffusing a bomb'.
Years of movement make the pins inside the connector not as snug as they were.
Under the front of the seat near the centre console there is a small yellow 2 pin connector, have a play with it, and see if the warning goes out. This is only diagnosis, the seat will have to come out anyway really, for the permanent cure.
If not, the seat will have to come out, remove the pre tensioner from the seat, and plug it back in several times. sometimes this works, but no guarantee.

What I do is remove the male pins from the connector (some as thin as needles) I run a soldering iron along the pins to give them the slightest coat of solder, smear dielectric grease on them. If it is loose connector pins, job done, and original connector in tact.

That is why I suggested taking the pins out the connector, that is fiddly, and just plugging the bare pins into each other.

Other option is to peel back the loom sheathing, snip off the connector, and solder on a pre wired 2 pin connector using heat shrink tube ( there are many, but I would use aTyco). I crimp my own pins like many others. If it does not work, and it is the pre tensioner, it has only cost a quid or two, you can fit the Tyco to the new pre tensioner, and voila. I must have at least a dozen pre tensioners, from upgrading seats for folk. many with the connector cut off.

Pre wired

I use these and crimp my own pins


Once the SRS warning lamp is out, re fit the pre tensioner to the seat and put it back.

If you do decide to replace the connector, you will notice the wire colours on one side of the connector look almost the same colour. Well one side has black and something else. The wire that goes to the black, wire, colour the end with a black marker, in case you forget.

Devilish said:

Battery disconnect not needed for this, but do it to be safe, and wait 15 mins before unplugging the pre tensioner.
I probably did not explain very well, fact is it could be anything the others have said, but if it is the side of the connector on the loom that comes out the floor, a new pre tensioner may not cure the fault. You have used a icarsoft, so you know more than you think, when you look at the connector, you will think, 'is that it, bloody Devilish made it sound like diffusing a bomb'.
Years of movement make the pins inside the connector not as snug as they were.
Under the front of the seat near the centre console there is a small yellow 2 pin connector, have a play with it, and see if the warning goes out. This is only diagnosis, the seat will have to come out anyway really, for the permanent cure.
If not, the seat will have to come out, remove the pre tensioner from the seat, and plug it back in several times. sometimes this works, but no guarantee.

What I do is remove the male pins from the connector (some as thin as needles) I run a soldering iron along the pins to give them the slightest coat of solder, smear dielectric grease on them. If it is loose connector pins, job done, and original connector in tact.

That is why I suggested taking the pins out the connector, that is fiddly, and just plugging the bare pins into each other.

Other option is to peel back the loom sheathing, snip off the connector, and solder on a pre wired 2 pin connector using heat shrink tube ( there are many, but I would use aTyco). I crimp my own pins like many others. If it does not work, and it is the pre tensioner, it has only cost a quid or two, you can fit the Tyco to the new pre tensioner, and voila. I must have at least a dozen pre tensioners, from upgrading seats for folk. many with the connector cut off.

Pre wired

I use these and crimp my own pins

Once the SRS warning lamp is out, re fit the pre tensioner to the seat and put it back.

If you do decide to replace the connector, you will notice the wire colours on one side of the connector look almost the same colour. Well one side has black and something else. The wire that goes to the black, wire, colour the end with a black marker, in case you forget.

Click to expand...

Hello devilish. Thank for taking your time out to reply back to my issue in such detail and depth. I will take everything you said on board and attempt to make it happen as soon as I get a couple of bits and bobs that you mentioned.

Would u suggest I take the seat out anyway at the beginning to make it easier to get to connectors and stuff or only if it’s essential.

Thank you pal I realy appreciate the advice. Landyzone is awesome

If you can work under there fine, my back and footwells got divorced. You can just prop the front of the seat up when bolts are out, to me quicker to whip the seat out, pop the pre tensioner off, plug it back in, and have the empty floor space to work, than **** about limbo dancing in the footwell.

Another thing. Do NOT use a multimeter on any SRS connector, even with battery disconnected.