Son's Ninety has chrome swivels with oil fill and my td5 has chrome swivels and one shot grease.Just look a the swivel ball, if Chrome its oil plus a fill, drain and if your lucky a lever plug. If Teflon its grease with just a fill plug…simples… but it appears that its not well known.
At the end of the day I guess it doesn't really matter, good thing about oil is you can drain it and change it.
discool
Well-Known Member
Like a lot of car parts, something is fitted new in the later life of a vehicle model and then they introduce a new model so completely different. It appears from what was stated years ago in the LR magazines there was a shortage of Teflon swivels for a time, but Chrome was still available and had to be used as a replacement.
If Teflon the items are still available, it may be possible to replace, but it seems a bit of a minefield with Vin numbers plus change points and including petrol or diesel to get the correct replacement now.
A least unlike chrome, teflon doesn’t rust which destroys the seal.
If an oil swivel is there is a quick bodge to stop it, assuming its only a dip now and again and its something I tried out on my RR and it worked so got the MOT and then sold it
The disco hasn’t an issue as it’s Teflon.
Cheers for the info!Like a lot of car parts, something is fitted new in the later life of a vehicle model and then they introduce a new model so completely different. It appears from what was stated years ago in the LR magazines there was a shortage of Teflon swivels for a time, but Chrome was still available and had to be used as a replacement.
If Teflon the items are still available, it may be possible to replace, but it seems a bit of a minefield with Vin numbers plus change points and including petrol or diesel to get the correct replacement now.
A least unlike chrome, teflon doesn’t rust which destroys the seal.
If an oil swivel is there is a quick bodge to stop it, assuming its only a dip now and again and its something I tried out on my RR and it worked so got the MOT and then sold it
The disco hasn’t an issue as it’s Teflon.
frostythor
Well-Known Member
Try this part 1 of 3 part video
discool
Well-Known Member
Your link although part 1 is very good so is part 2 to 4 its been posted already by ‘tilly2‘ in post #15.
So keep up
@Dr Strangeglove I agree that was something that concerned me, I've done a few classic cars and the bolts snap easily, I'm simialr to you i either replace or renew as i go. I was looking at replacing all the lines and planned on doing them in due course but i do take on board. My thinking was i get all the seal's bearings etc and just replace it all. It's better in the long run.
I have started with plus gas on the bolts as I've learned the hard way a few times. This will allow me to fill the swivel and see what happens.
The aviation spanners are great i have a set, i found old brake calipers they work well on.
Thanks,
Ben
@Anaconda Thank you, i did see a video on Youtube last night that showed that method. It might be a good one to try if the one shot dosen't take.
Thanks,
Ben
You're welcome, it's the route I took on my son's Ninety saves on unnecessary work if it doesn't need it.
frostythor
Well-Known Member
Yes Discool, it was posted on #15, thats the touble with the longer posts., you lose track of whats posted
discool
Well-Known Member
robbie the greatl
Active Member
if its the large seal round the swivel ball ive heard of people changing it without strip out undo ring of small bolts off seal retaining ring and take out seal but not seal spring cut the new seal and put joint on the top with old spring in it you can put a bit of sealer on joint if you want if swivel is pitted waste of time strip it out and renew
discool
Well-Known Member
There were adverts 30 odd years ago in the LR magazines showing a replacement seal kit which had split seal and included the “special” adhesive.
@robbie the greatl Thanks for the advice, i watched a video on youtube last night doing something similar.
@discool its funny you mention that on one of the land rover sites i saw something similar like a CV joint gater that would work the same for the swivel.
Sorry for the radio silence on here i wanted to update you all quickly.
I filled up the swivel and it still leaks albeit slowly, It's hard to work out how long the oil would last. It does look like the seal might have gone its trickling down the bottom sidewall. Next weekend I'll need to take it appart and see what i find.
Sadley i had to take her off the road 2 weeks ago as i found a small hole and found a previous repair to the sill wasn't in great condition.
What started as a small hole inside the floor ended up being an 1/4 end of an outer sill, tiny bit of the inner and part floor. Water had been getting in from the front drivers wheel arch and allong the sill and just rust from the inside. The heater matrix coolant must not have have helped either. You would never spot it as someone had covered it in underseal. Only when grinding it back did i find thin metal.
I have cut the rot and welded in new steel. At the time i should have got a sill kit from YRM but instead repaired the rusting parts with 2mm steel and cut out bad and made new.
Welding the floor next weekend, I have plans to replace the whole sill in due course and weld in new as some of the other patches someone has done at the B and C pillar look somewhat suspect and are platted over repairs but atleast its metal and welded. Seems to be a common theme at garages these days or just bondo it up. Amazing what you find when removing someones undersealed work on cars these days. Atleast there was no body filler so the person has done an ok job.
I'll probably cut it all out over summer and make it 100%, I have noticed some here do the box section upgrade. I want some rock sliders on it to use as steps as a few of my family struggle in and out of it so that might be a better option. My Friend has suggested i use one of the garage 2 poster lift's and take the body off and paint the chassis but im not sure i want to do that just yet.
I filled up the swivel and it still leaks albeit slowly, It's hard to work out how long the oil would last. It does look like the seal might have gone its trickling down the bottom sidewall. Next weekend I'll need to take it appart and see what i find.
Sadley i had to take her off the road 2 weeks ago as i found a small hole and found a previous repair to the sill wasn't in great condition.
What started as a small hole inside the floor ended up being an 1/4 end of an outer sill, tiny bit of the inner and part floor. Water had been getting in from the front drivers wheel arch and allong the sill and just rust from the inside. The heater matrix coolant must not have have helped either. You would never spot it as someone had covered it in underseal. Only when grinding it back did i find thin metal.
I have cut the rot and welded in new steel. At the time i should have got a sill kit from YRM but instead repaired the rusting parts with 2mm steel and cut out bad and made new.
Welding the floor next weekend, I have plans to replace the whole sill in due course and weld in new as some of the other patches someone has done at the B and C pillar look somewhat suspect and are platted over repairs but atleast its metal and welded. Seems to be a common theme at garages these days or just bondo it up. Amazing what you find when removing someones undersealed work on cars these days. Atleast there was no body filler so the person has done an ok job.
I'll probably cut it all out over summer and make it 100%, I have noticed some here do the box section upgrade. I want some rock sliders on it to use as steps as a few of my family struggle in and out of it so that might be a better option. My Friend has suggested i use one of the garage 2 poster lift's and take the body off and paint the chassis but im not sure i want to do that just yet.
