Maat said:
So just today I've noticed that steering hard in an indoors parking lot (uphill but not downhill which is weird) the tyres start screeching intermitently, a little bit. Could this be the viscous coupling in the transfer case? I thought these units a reliable generally speaking? An oil change jn the t case was on the cards one of these days, I hope it won't be an issue anymore but if it is, what modifications would it require to fit a discovery 1 t case on, if its even possible? I know the p38 one is electrically actuated... Also the ratios are different I believe... I would have the possibility of changing the viscous coupling at my workshop after hours, but is this a worthwhile in investment or should I just go with a used unit? Many thanks.
Click to expand...

Firstly the drop for the props from an LT230 is on the other side of the P38. so we could say a No to that.

Check tyre pressures, Many will squeal in carparks even fiat500s as the surface is covered in rubber and not washed :).

I am sure there is a test for the VC on here somewhere, but they are pretty robust under normal use.

I would be looking elsewhere for your PS issue, Fluid level?

J
 
Maat said:
So just today I've noticed that steering hard in an indoors parking lot (uphill but not downhill which is weird) the tyres start screeching intermitently, a little bit. Could this be the viscous coupling in the transfer case? I thought these units a reliable generally speaking? An oil change jn the t case was on the cards one of these days, I hope it won't be an issue anymore but if it is, what modifications would it require to fit a discovery 1 t case on, if its even possible? I know the p38 one is electrically actuated... Also the ratios are different I believe... I would have the possibility of changing the viscous coupling at my workshop after hours, but is this a worthwhile in investment or should I just go with a used unit? Many thanks.
Click to expand...
The tyres can screech on tight slow turns on some surfaces even if the VCU is OK. Best to do the VCU test to check if it's OK. Second hand is a waste of time IMO, Ashcroft Engineering do new ones.
Jack one front wheel off the ground, handbrake on box in neutral, with a long bar on the hub nut or a wheel nut with constant pressure, the wheel should turn. It's possible to do it just gripping the tyre and heaving if you are strong
 
Datatek said:
The tyres can screech on tight slow turns on some surfaces even if the VCU is OK. Best to do the VCU test to check if it's OK. Second hand is a waste of time IMO, Ashcroft Engineering do new ones.
Jack one front wheel off the ground, handbrake on box in neutral, with a long bar on the hub nut or a wheel nut with constant pressure, the wheel should turn. It's possible to do it just gripping the tyre and heaving if you are strong
Click to expand...
Okay, that works! So I guess less reason for concern. Unfortunately ashcroft is way out of budget for now..
I just noticed the diffs are on the left side as opposed to Discoveries on the right.
 
Maat said:
Okay, that works! So I guess less reason for concern. Unfortunately ashcroft is way out of budget for now..
I just noticed the diffs are on the left side as opposed to Discoveries on the right.
Click to expand...
Do the VCU test, yours may be OK.
 
Maat said:
Isn't the VCU test spinning the wheel? If not, I can't find anything on the web.
Click to expand...
No you should not be able to spin a wheel.
Jack one front wheel off the ground, handbrake on gearbox in neutral. Using a socket on the hub nut or a wheel nut and a long bar, exert a constant pressure and with effort it should be possible to slowly rotate the wheel.
 
Datatek said:
No you should not be able to spin a wheel.
Jack one front wheel off the ground, handbrake on gearbox in neutral. Using a socket on the hub nut or a wheel nut and a long bar, exert a constant pressure and with effort it should be possible to slowly rotate the wheel.
Click to expand...
Écho 😜
 
Datatek said:
No you should not be able to spin a wheel.
Jack one front wheel off the ground, handbrake on gearbox in neutral. Using a socket on the hub nut or a wheel nut and a long bar, exert a constant pressure and with effort it should be possible to slowly rotate the wheel.
Click to expand...

As here. I don't know about the automatic but with the manual box ot should be possible to slowly tease it round with a torque wrench on the hub-nut set to 70nm. It you cannot get it to move without the torque wrench set below 110nm then check Ashcroft's website and do their check with the prop off and directly on the output.

I think the viscous couplings from Aschcrofts are refurbed ones. There's a How To in the Gaylander section if you want to try yourself and keep costs down. Personally I put a whole refurbed TB in as the morse chain was due replacement and various other things and by the time I added it all up I wasn't far off their price. The car was a lot smoother afterwards.
 
Datatek said:
No you should not be able to spin a wheel.
Jack one front wheel off the ground, handbrake on gearbox in neutral. Using a socket on the hub nut or a wheel nut and a long bar, exert a constant pressure and with effort it should be possible to slowly rotate the wheel.
Click to expand...
Yeah that's what I meant. It seems fine. I will try with a torque wrench and see exactly when it starts rotating.
 
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