Maat

Maat

Active Member
My girlfriend bought herself a P38, her first RR, and I, of course am the caretaker of the car. I've never owned or worked on one before? Where should I start with the maintenance, besides all the oil and filter changes? It's a 2.5 diesel, 155k miles, 1999. Only problems I noticed were a leak from one of the seals in the axle and a window not working. Also previous owner installed a battery cutoff switch as the battery drains "when it rains" if it the car is not driven for some days... I want to avoid any kind of problems with the drive train and engine problems especially. Thank you!
 
Maat said:
My girlfriend bought herself a P38, her first RR, and I, of course am the caretaker of the car. I've never owned or worked on one before? Where should I start with the maintenance, besides all the oil and filter changes? It's a 2.5 diesel, 155k miles, 1999. Only problems I noticed were a leak from one of the seals in the axle and a window not working. Also previous owner installed a battery cutoff switch as the battery drains "when it rains" if it the car is not driven for some days... I want to avoid any kind of problems with the drive train and engine problems especially. Thank you!
Click to expand...
Check for wet carpets in the drivers footwell for starters. Leaks from the pollen filter covers are common and the O rings for the heater matrix also leak. Gearbox & transfer box should have an oil change plus filter for the gearbox. The air springs probably need replacing if the have not been done.
It would be a good idea to buy diagnostics as no doubt you will need them and download a copy of RAVE the workshop manual from the tech archive. I think that will do for you to be getting on with.
Remember, a Range Rover is not a car, it's a hobby.
 
Maat said:
My girlfriend bought herself a P38, her first RR, and I, of course am the caretaker of the car. I've never owned or worked on one before? Where should I start with the maintenance, besides all the oil and filter changes? It's a 2.5 diesel, 155k miles, 1999. Only problems I noticed were a leak from one of the seals in the axle and a window not working. Also previous owner installed a battery cutoff switch as the battery drains "when it rains" if it the car is not driven for some days... I want to avoid any kind of problems with the drive train and engine problems especially. Thank you!
Click to expand...

Be afraid, be very afraid ...

Depends a bit on what the previous owner has done. You could throw hundreds at it and still pay out thousands over the first year ... or just hundreds. I'd wait and see what surprises are in store if I were you before throwing money at it. A 24 year old car is bound to have sone issues - most cars don't even make it to 20 years.

First of all, download RAVE. You'll need it one day but more importantly it will tell you the full service schedule.

Oil and filters are worth doing every 5k miles - 10/40W semi-synthetic for the oil burner. The diff oil is worth changing but do that when you do the seal on the end of the axle (in the Technical Section there's a How To change the CV boot which will tell you how to get the hub and half-shaft out). Transfer box oil (ATF 3) is worth checking and the autobox oil and filter. Make sure there's no play in the UJs and the props are well and truly greased. Also, clear out the intercooler and make sure all hoses are tight. Yours will have EGR which may need cleaning. Air suspension: let it level, open a door and pull the delay relay under the passenger seat and see if it drops overnight. If it does check the airbags and connections. Under the parcel shelf on the driver's side is the RF receiver. Check that has a green dot (generation 3) or you might get battery drain / RF issues. Also check the central locking is all working correctly and you know where the EKA code is. Check the tyres for scrubbing. Scrubbing on outside edges might be the viscous coupling unit in the transfer box beginning to seize. At that age and mileage the swivel hub ball joints and the radius arm bushes may need doing but that's a bigger job.
 
Maat said:
My girlfriend bought herself a P38, her first RR, and I, of course am the caretaker of the car. I've never owned or worked on one before? Where should I start with the maintenance, besides all the oil and filter changes? It's a 2.5 diesel, 155k miles, 1999. Only problems I noticed were a leak from one of the seals in the axle and a window not working. Also previous owner installed a battery cutoff switch as the battery drains "when it rains" if it the car is not driven for some days... I want to avoid any kind of problems with the drive train and engine problems especially. Thank you!
Click to expand...
And bear in mind, the comments above^^^^^^, are from Range Rover enthusiasts! o_O
 
brianp38dse said:
Check the rear brake pipes if they have not been replaced it is advisable to do so as they rust out over the cross member, can be done diy its not hard and cheep.
Click to expand...

+1 on the rear brake lines. If they haven't been done then I'd do them as they're almost certainly failing by now.
 
Thank you all for the replies. I know that the rear air springs and the brake lines have been changed some years back. I also have reason to suspect one of the previous owner that had it for the last 15 years was an enthusiast. Everything seems to be working so far. The tyres are almost new so its hard to say if they are scrubbing or not. Well, I can feel myself becoming a RR addict now as well. Thank you for the great advice about the battery drain and the wet carpets. I'm impressed how everything seems to work except the clock...
 
My clock suffered from corrosion on the terminals, cleaned them up and it was OK although the new bulb I fitted failed soon after. Bit of a faff to get at the clock though.
 
Flossie said:
My clock suffered from corrosion on the terminals, cleaned them up and it was OK although the new bulb I fitted failed soon after. Bit of a faff to get at the clock though.
Click to expand...

Can you not pop it out after taking the radio out?
 
Grrrrrr said:
Can you not pop it out after taking the radio out?
Click to expand...
I couldn't but if you have hands like this then maybe. :D
Screenshot_20230601_124022_Google.jpg
 
Grrrrrr said:
Be afraid, be very afraid ...

Depends a bit on what the previous owner has done. You could throw hundreds at it and still pay out thousands over the first year ... or just hundreds. I'd wait and see what surprises are in store if I were you before throwing money at it. A 24 year old car is bound to have sone issues - most cars don't even make it to 20 years.

First of all, download RAVE. You'll need it one day but more importantly it will tell you the full service schedule.

Oil and filters are worth doing every 5k miles - 10/40W semi-synthetic for the oil burner. The diff oil is worth changing but do that when you do the seal on the end of the axle (in the Technical Section there's a How To change the CV boot which will tell you how to get the hub and half-shaft out). Transfer box oil (ATF 3) is worth checking and the autobox oil and filter. Make sure there's no play in the UJs and the props are well and truly greased. Also, clear out the intercooler and make sure all hoses are tight. Yours will have EGR which may need cleaning. Air suspension: let it level, open a door and pull the delay relay under the passenger seat and see if it drops overnight. If it does check the airbags and connections. Under the parcel shelf on the driver's side is the RF receiver. Check that has a green dot (generation 3) or you might get battery drain / RF issues. Also check the central locking is all working correctly and you know where the EKA code is. Check the tyres for scrubbing. Scrubbing on outside edges might be the viscous coupling unit in the transfer box beginning to seize. At that age and mileage the swivel hub ball joints and the radius arm bushes may need doing but that's a bigger job.
Click to expand...

So just today I've noticed that steering hard in an indoors parking lot (uphill but not downhill which is weird) the tyres start screeching intermitently, a little bit. Could this be the viscous coupling in the transfer case? I thought these units a reliable generally speaking? An oil change jn the t case was on the cards one of these days, I hope it won't be an issue anymore but if it is, what modifications would it require to fit a discovery 1 t case on, if its even possible? I know the p38 one is electrically actuated... Also the ratios are different I believe... I would have the possibility of changing the viscous coupling at my workshop after hours, but is this a worthwhile in investment or should I just go with a used unit? Many thanks.
 
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