discomania
Well-Known Member
If it was me, I would splice, solder and heat shrink an additional feed from the full beam live, using this I would control a relay which would be fed from a permanent fused live supply. When you go to full beam, relay operates and draws a load which the existing wiring can cope with, and in turn switches your spots on.
I am re-looming my front end with the cables for spots included in the loom and the circuitry to run them is up at the bulkhead - a nicer option if you have the desire.
I never use just a mechanical connection (crimps) or just a solder connection if I can at all avoid it. The only place I am relatively happy to use mechanical only is for the rear lights behind the access panel. Due to the ease of access if something went wrong, and also as it is on the whole dry back here (I don’t wade).
If your not keen on the soldering option, you could use a bullet connection, seperate the bullets for the headlight, and get a 4 way if there is no joiner and it's just pushed into each other, and take that up to spade connections, once crimped backfill and coat with petrolium jelly once the connections have been pushed together.
Last edited:
