torlak · Apr 14, 2014

got the common disco 2 issue - front pipes are rusty, cracked etc and leaking a lot of oil
i have a family shipyard in istanbul (i live in london by the way) where i can have the valve block rebuilt at no cost
here is one example of it http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/discovery-ace-conversion-154565.html
just wondering how i should remove the valve block i.e cutting the pipes right in the middle? should i remove the oil before cutting pipes etc?
if that works out well and cheap enough, can get set of repair kit for others who are suffering from the same failure

torlak · Apr 17, 2014

any idea how i can remove the valve block? do i have to cut the pipes??

sierrafery · Apr 17, 2014

you can cut them if they are scrap or remove them from the block by undoing the bracket and pulling them out... your choice

official method attached

torlak · Apr 17, 2014

sierrafery said:
you can cut them if they are scrap or remove them from the block by undoing the bracket and pulling them out... your choice

official method attached

any idea about the size of pipes?

sierrafery · Apr 17, 2014

use a caliper

... then be aware that the pressure goes up to 140Bar in the system

wilson294 · Apr 17, 2014

sierrafery said:
use a caliper ... then be aware that the pressure goes up to 140Bar in the system

do you mean 140psi 140 bar is over 2000 psi 50x the pressure of your tyres

sierrafery · Apr 17, 2014

wilson294 said:
do you mean 140psi 140 bar is over 2000 psi 50x the pressure of your tyres

i mean 140 BAR not PSI ... YES seems unbeliavable but that's how it works, though i was wrong with 5 bar , here's from the manual:

RAVE = ACE- DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION 60-15 said:
The pump has a displacement of 8.5 cm 3 /rev and an operational pressure of 135 bar (1958 lbf.in 2 ). The pump output
flow ranges from 7.0 l/min (1.85 US Gallons/min) at 775 rev/min to 9.25 l/min (2.44 US Gallons/min) at 7625 rev/min.

that kind of pressure is needed in the actuators to equilibrate the body in corners

wilson294 · Apr 17, 2014

sierrafery said:
i mean 140 BAR not PSI ... YES seems unbeliavable but that's how it works, though i was wrong with 5 bar , here's from the manual:

that kind of pressure is needed in the actuators to equilibrate the body in corners

Thats bloody bomb like pressure

jamesmartin · Apr 17, 2014

2000 psi is common hydraulic pressure ,1500 bar in injection system is high pressure, pipes cab be tight in the block an 8mm bolt pushed down a cut pipe so it doesnt crush with mole grips helps

torlak · Apr 18, 2014

sierrafery said:
use a caliper ... then be aware that the pressure goes up to 140Bar in the system

is it gonna explode or smth then?

i can simply start undoing the bolts and let the oil drip right?

sierrafery · Apr 18, 2014

yes I mentioned the working pressure for you to be aware of it as you said you want to improvise ...to know what pressure the fittings/pipes must resist of

there is a filter in the bottom of the block, remove it collect spillage and you can work on the pipes without fear

jamesmartin · Apr 18, 2014

torlak said:
is it gonna explode or smth then? i can simply start undoing the bolts and let the oil drip right?

you can as long as engines off ,old pipes often need cutting to remove from block

torlak · Apr 18, 2014

sierrafery said:
after u put the new actuator top up the tank if needed then go for a harsh ride with lots of curves if you can...it will bleed itself(then check again the oil level) ... if you'll have suspicions about air trapped in find somebody with nanocom or hawkeye to run the bleed procedure) ... i've never needed it

referring to above, if all going well, after replacing the pipes etc should i just fill the resorvoir and start the engine??

sierrafery · Apr 18, 2014

yes, just watch the level from time to time and top up if needed untill it settles

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