meego said:

I don't remember saying my Disco is "floppy". It's not. I drive my kids to school in it and wouldn't do so if I thought it was unsafe. There is a difference from a locked system and a Depressurised system. I'm not going to get into the does and don't of ACE, but I will say keeping it is not the only answer. It cost me 60 quid to by pass mine. It drives fine.

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It may drive fine. But that isn’t the point. Working ACE transforms how they handle.

Remember early Range Rovers and Disco 1’s didn’t have any anti roll bars at all. Like most Defenders. Yes they are fine, but they lean a lot and due to the lean don’t change direction as well.

Anti roll bars reduce lean. But also flex and can make the ride stiffer. ACE goes well beyond this and allows flex and considerably less lean than regular anti roll bars. As ACE is a reactive system and will actively counter lean.

meego said:

I don't remember saying my Disco is "floppy". It's not. I drive my kids to school in it and wouldn't do so if I thought it was unsafe. There is a difference from a locked system and a Depressurised system. I'm not going to get into the does and don't of ACE, but I will say keeping it is not the only answer. It cost me 60 quid to by pass mine. It drives fine.

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I intervened when you said that with removed pump it's the same like wilth working ACE, i said that being like this is exactly like when a working system goes to "floppy" default and that's how it is, i also didnt say it's dangerous nor did LR , it's pretty clear what's quoted with blue in my previous post, your vehicle based on a formal LR ''specialist"s advice is now in a situation covered by that blue warning not even in locked bars cos for that default the system must be sealed and full of oil, in my first post here i gave an advice to the OP how to lock the bars without big investment i didnt say to spend big money on it even though i agree with those who say to restore it cos IMO it's brilliant and it's a huge difference between a working system and a bodged one

300bhp/ton said:

If you couldn’t notice ACE not working then you can’t have driven with it working. It’s a night and day difference. Hell even driving with ACE working vs other cars that don’t have it at all is still hugely evident. A D2 with working ACE corners flatter and leans way less than a D4 does.

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Since my new commute has some pretty tight slow corners found I need it more.

I can feel ACE almost lifting the inside front on roll control, it works really well

Well i think decision made.. reinstate the ACE.. Will do a good inspection tomorrow check state of all the pipes and the 2 actuators which after a quick check look in good Nick.. Will sort the valve block first as it' leaking from the pipe fittings.. anyone know if there is a seal kit for the valve block or if you can get the pipe fittings?

Nige4927 said:

Well i think decision made.. reinstate the ACE.. Will do a good inspection tomorrow check state of all the pipes and the 2 actuators which after a quick check look in good Nick.. Will sort the valve block first as it' leaking from the pipe fittings.. anyone know if there is a seal kit for the valve block or if you can get the pipe fittings?

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Yes a seal kit is available. I should know as I went through a few without success. The kit comes with an applicator that assists with fitting. The problem is getting the bore of the block clean enough for the seals to do their job. Its an aluminium block and the bores get pitted. Good luck with it. As a few have said before. It is a great system, but has its flaws.

Nige4927 said:

Well i think decision made.. reinstate the ACE.. Will do a good inspection tomorrow check state of all the pipes and the 2 actuators which after a quick check look in good Nick.. Will sort the valve block first as it' leaking from the pipe fittings.. anyone know if there is a seal kit for the valve block or if you can get the pipe fittings?

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Problem is the pipes fracture, so get the block machined to take 1/4" BSP fittings and use those instead.