Menash

Menash

Member
Hi everyone,
first i want to apologize for my english, i promise to try my best (and google.....)
Today i traveled a round with my disco 2 2004 TD5 and after 5 min of driving the ace light turned blinking red and after 2 min stayed red. i retured immediately home and turned off the engine. I have the vehicle for 1.5 years and didn't do anything about ace system accept fluid change (partially) and replacment of the front actuator.
any idea what to look for? should i start with something before seeking mechanic (the only one i trust in is one hour drive far)? i checked for leakages and the only one is from the washer above the new actuator and it's not that bad (no fluid is missing)
thanks
 
Hi, can you see serious activity in the reservoir with engine running? If not then i'm affraid the pump has failed and this can happen if it wasnt primed after it got empty and refilled ... if the fluid is circulating well you have to find somebody with a proper diagnostic tool to read the fault code cos there can be many reasons
 
The oil change i did included the reservoir only, few times... i did not prime/ bleed the system after that and i will be thankful if you will send me the instruction if you have a good source.
I am going to check the pump activity in the next few hours.... should i start the engine with the cover of the reservoir open and look inside? Should i comper it with PAS activity?
 
Yes remove the tank's cap with engine at idle and watch the fluid, it should circulate around almost like PAS. If the pump ran much without being primed it's possible that it suffered. To prime it undo the outlet banjo, ask somebody to start the engine then watch the outlet, when the oil comes out with pressure stop the engine refit the banjo and top up the fluid... job done, the rest of the system will bleed itself in time eventually find a place where you can drive as fast as you cand with several turns both ways (make some 8's)
 
Just to make sure.... banjo outlet is the connection between the pump and the valve block pipe?
 
Two things:
1 i think the pump is working but i will be thankful if you can tell me what you think...
2 i saw a wet area just under the pump. I think that the source is the banjo connection. Can in explain the warning light although the ACE fluid is full?
I will send pic
 
As long as the tank is full a small leak won't bring on the warning light, if the pump is not rimed and the fluid not circulating will trigger the warning cos in that case there is no pressure to the valve block and it has a sensor for that
 
The leakage
 

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You can drive it that way cos it's safe untill you can fix it, there are some checks yu can do without diagnostic tool to rule out things:
1. Check fuses F15, F29 interior fusebox
2. Swap relay R13(horns) with R14(ACE) then see if the horns are working which means the ACE relay was OK
3. There are 3 solenoids on the valve block two at the top and on on ghe side, unplug them and measure resistance with multimeter , the DCVs(on the top) must have 2.7 Ohm and the PCV (left side of block) 5.7 Ohm.... the transducer on the RH side usually brings on amber warning and i dont know it's resistance all you can do is to check if it's not open circuit. ... if these all check out well then only the fault code can help
 
sierrafery said:
You can drive it that way cos it's safe untill you can fix it, there are some checks yu can do without diagnostic tool to rule out things:
1. Check fuses F15, F29 interior fusebox
2. Swap relay R13(horns) with R14(ACE) then see if the horns are working which means the ACE relay was OK
3. There are 3 solenoids on the valve block two at the top and on on ghe side, unplug them and measure resistance with multimeter , the DCVs(on the top) must have 2.7 Ohm and the PCV (left side of block) 5.7 Ohm.... the transducer on the RH side usually brings on amber warning and i dont know it's resistance all you can do is to check if it's not open circuit. ... if these all check out well then only the fault code can help
Click to expand...
Thanks again..
I will do so immediately after understanding what you wrote...
 
I found the place in the book that it is written the numbers of the relays. It says the numbers are 15, 16
Will i find it on the fuses cover just to make sure?
 

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Those numbers are for fuses not relays, the scheme of disposal is on the cover, yes i should have said F15 engine bay not interior fusebox
 
Hi again....
As you recommend i checked f15 and switched the relays and the were o.k. i brought multimeter to check the solenoid but i realized that i don't really know how to do that.
Someone told me the the cause might be an air in the system. Does it sound logic to you?
If it does should i just bleed the system as you wrote after fixing the leackage?
 
Menash said:
Someone told me the the cause might be an air in the system. Does it sound logic to you?
Click to expand...
No it doesnt sound logical to me
Menash said:
i brought multimeter to check the solenoid but i realized that i don't really know how to do that.
Click to expand...
unplug the solenoid set the multimeter to Ohm and measure across the solenoid's pins, an example for DCV on the bench but witj some gymnastics you should ber able to do it in situ
ACE DCV resistance.jpg

also check the connections in the orange plug near the fusebox cos all the wiring for the valve block goes through it and here's an example when the red ACE warning was on
ACE red warning.jpg
 
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