youmitegetian

youmitegetian

Active Member
So my ACE pump started squealing and very quickly dumped all it oil over the engine.
Have googled how to replace the pump but just get guides on how to replace the ACE system rather than how to replace the pump for a new pump.
Any help and guides to do this would be appreciated.
 
have a search on here, someone did it not long ago. Biggest problem was priming it to make it pump.
 
I did search but didn’t find anything useful, you wouldn’t know who it as? I’ve got a friends Hawkeye that I understand is used to bleed the pump.
 
youmitegetian said:
I did search but didn’t find anything useful, you wouldn’t know who it as? I’ve got a friends Hawkeye that I understand is used to bleed the pump.
Click to expand...
The bleeding which hawkeye can do is useless as long as the pump was not primed first and for that you have to let the outet undone and crank it with fuel pump relay removed untill you have good flow then connect the banjo. You must see serious activity in the tank at idle if the pump was primed well otherwise the pump will die in no time. As about the pump it's simple to fit it once you removed it, if you need instructions see the ACE repairs section in the workshop manual
 
Ok thanks that’s useful to know, I’d read that you can’t self bleed it properly without Hawkeye but makes sense that you get rid of most of the air before it’s spinning quickly.
 
Priming the pump is one thing and beeding is other, the priming is compulsory and not affected by the diagnostic tool, after the pump was primed the system will bleed itself after lots of cornerings even without tester, it's enough to find a large enough space to drive some 8's as fast as you can
 
Nice to see one being repaired rather than bypassed. I really liked ACE, great on road but arguably even better off.
 
Yeah I’d defo prefer to fix it than remove it, I would have the air springs if they hadn’t already been removed, I’m tempted to reinstate them as I don’t think much was removed, looks like the pump and pipe work is still intact
 
Mine had air. One of the best things about it, did a few dump/b&q/Ikea runs along with holiday and green lane camping trips. Despite a lot of weight in the back it did it’s thing and remained level and pleasant to drive. Only had seven in my D1 a couple of times but it was a much less pleasant experience.

ACE and SLS seemed to work very nicely indeed

34E62FCE-A00A-4F1F-BC1E-CABC82A63F83.jpeg
BFD97BF8-C0AA-4117-A21D-9CA110B9123B.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: MJI
I did find a “how to” for the removal, very straight forward so all good, but useful tips on the priming. now just need to remove all the oil that is literally all over that side of the engine compartment. The joys of Land Rover ownership lol
 
Will help with the corrosion protection if nothing else!

Is that an L322 in your avatar?
 
Lol that is very true although I think the chassis could of done with that a long while ago.
Yes keep meaning to change the pic, sold the L322 back in March, fuel consumption on my 3 mile commute was around 18mpg, got a BMW 640d GC that does 40mpg now and don’t need multiple 4x4’s
 
Way OT I know but I’m considering one, probably a circa 2006 4.4 jag engine if I do. How does it compare to the D2 in terms of running costs? My D2 auto only did 23mpg, obviously expecting much worse from the L322.
 
Mine was 3.6 TDV8 which is a massive improvement on the TD6, was top spec with great seats, love them to be honest, actually sold it and bought a Nissan Leaf because I get free electric at work, soon decided I’d rather pay for diesel lol, I’d have a Tesla but nothing else comes close to them.
 
Forgot to answer about running costs. I’d expect more than a TD5 but depends who maintains it for you, I do most bits myself and totally rely i. This forum. I do know that if I could only have one car it would be an L322 without doubt.
 
Will all by myself where physically capable, have a cousin at a local garage that can help when I’m not. I’ll order a gap tool the day I commit to a car.
 
Yeah a good Land Rover specific scan tool is an absolute must.
They are challenging to own for sure but I’ve had 3 now and love them, the facelift is much much nicer if you can get one, 2009/2010 and I wouldn’t consider the petrol, the tdv8 is a cracking engine
 
I probably could stretch to a facelift but would have nothing left. Ideally I’d like a really early one but it seems the bmw engines are best avoided. Only avoiding diesel due to ULEZ and potential turbo issues etc
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

G
Anti Roll Bar disconnect
Replies
16
Views
574
Gingerbread
G
MAF Diver
Disco 2 Is my ACE leaking fluid at the actuator arm? New bushing?
Replies
9
Views
551
MJI
MJI
TD5 Pilot
LandRover Discovery custom ACE removal
Replies
6
Views
620
sierrafery
sierrafery
L
ACE and PS (again)
Replies
1
Views
471
MJI
MJI
A
D2 ACE & steering fluid problem
2
Replies
25
Views
2K
sierrafery
sierrafery