Gros Niglik
Member
MJI
Well-Known Member
I had a failure would not operate the solenoids, swapped ECU and worked, due to amount being scrapped, tons of spares
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Couldnt check on mine with nanocom cos my son took the D2 and went skiing for a week... changing the ECU to rule it out would be a god move... what about the warning lamp test ?
Gros Niglik
Member
If the ECU is bad, I wonder what made it fail since it worked before I replaced the hydraulic pipes. Perhaps when I stupidly reversed the bottom two pipes on the valve block?
Gros Niglik
Member
The warning lamp test did nothing.
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Then the ECU must be ruled out before anythig else, they are not the best engineering and not very uncommon failure most of them due to moisture or water ingress in the area
Gros Niglik
Member
I will order today
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
I dont think that the hydraulic side woud affect the ECU but as the output tests are all failing it must be ruled out before going further, then if no change it can become a bit complicated to diagnose so let's see what happens with a 100% good ECU first... make sure that F15 in the engine bay fusebox is good
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Gros Niglik
Member
What you say makes sense. ECU has been ordered. I also ordered another valve block just in case. From the photos it appears to be in excellent shape and it is guarajnteed. I think I wasted my money on the valve block but good to have a second spare.
MJI
Well-Known Member
I think mine failed due to a lot of splashed water around the block, and something MAY have shorted. I have ran another 4 or so years no issue, but I do have a failing solenoid to swap over.
But as SF says, they are not robust.
Gros Niglik
Member
Thanks for the update. The "new" ECU and valve block have been shipped. I should have them next week.
Gros Niglik
Member
How much movement of the fluid in the reservoir at idle is normal? Should it be as aggressive as in the PAS reservoir? There is very little movement in my reservoir.
Gros Niglik
Member
I am having trouble unplugging the ACE ECU. What is the trick?
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Gros Niglik
Member
Can you confirm the position of the high pressure line from the pump to the valve block? I believe it is at the bottom of the valve block on the RH side as you look toward the rear of the car. Would you be so kind as to confirm?
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
I can't confirm 100%, i forgot cos i marked the pipes with coloured tape both sides and made a scheme when i changed them so i just refitted them as they were before without thinking too much, seems that the RH side bottom port is for HP based on info from others also IIRC there must be a P marked on the block for that
Gros Niglik
Member
I have another revalation, I changed the filter in the valve block before I installed the used unit originally a couple pf months ago. While waiting for the new (used) ECU (which I will pick up in Mooers NY tomorrow), i decided to have a look at the filter. It was full of black particles which I cleaned out with brake cleaner. I think that the black debris must have been in the used valveblock I purchased. The level of agitation in the reservoir is improved, but nothing like what I see in the PAS reservoir. I still get no result when I try the inputs on the NANOCOM such as the warning light or the directional valves,
I will thouroughly clean out the new (used) valve block that I will collect tomorrow. I will see if there is difference before I try the new ECU. Any comments??
I will thouroughly clean out the new (used) valve block that I will collect tomorrow. I will see if there is difference before I try the new ECU. Any comments??
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
As long as you dont get any response on output tests to the warning or solenoids with nanocom on a 100% good valve block you have to rule the ECU out first, discussions about the filter or hydraulics are futile
