M

matgriff

Active Member
My 53 plate discovery 2 deposited a pool of fluid under the rear diff today. I thought at first it was a leak from the drain plug or pinion oil seal, however it quickly became obvious that it's from the ACE pipes that route over the rear diff, they are very rusty. The underside of the car is covered in fluid and the reservoir is half empty. I've looked through a few posts, as far as I can tell the kit I need is for two rear pipes, actuator to valve block. Is that everything or do I need fittings and seals for where they connect to the actuator block.

Anyone else done this ? and is it fairly straightforward. ? I have a Hawkeye to bleed the system afterwards.

Thx
 
I will be doing this soon with a modded valve block, and flexible hydraulic fittings.

Need 14mm I think ends on the ram, about 1.2m to 1.5m x 2 hydraulic pipes and adaptors to fit on 3/8" steel pipe.

Mine will be hydraulic fittings throughout, even bought a cheap new rear ARB.

Read this thread carefully

http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=3452
 
You will need two seals ( part number RVW100010) and best get a couple of collets (ANR6700) as well and some fluid, I've just done mine and got away without bleeding it, just took it round some corners and topped up. Screw an 8 or 10 mm bolt ( can't remember which but it's obvious when you look at the new ones) into the old seals to remove them being very careful not to damage the soft ally block, its a bit of a struggle to get the new pipes over the axle but they will go. Best of luck
 
Hi MJI OK thanks, I've registered to join that discussion board so I can read the thread.

From what I've read, I'm undecided weather to replace the pipes or just remove everything and fit the kit from Island 4 X 4 ?? I'm a bit concerned that the pipes are pretty expensive, nearly as much as the removal kit, and I may have issues getting them to seal at the actuator block, plus the front pipes look pretty rusty too, so may give future problems.

Thanks
 
ACE is a fantastic bit of kit and with the mods that are being designed at present will continue to be a great bit of kit.
That said I had a terminal leak a few years ago and took the decision at that time to remove the original and go for the standard drop links, ARBs etc and remove all the ACE kit.
I had driven the disco for around 5 years by that time. A lot of people say there is a massive difference in ride from both systems, however I have to be honest I never noticed a difference, perhaps because of the way I drive (slowly).
Remember when you remove it, you have to tell the ECU that its not fitted any more or you will have a warning light on the dash.
Good luck whatever you do
 
^ ^ ^ What he said.

There's a mod for the warning light that sierrafery posted, that involves a wire link across the ACE ECU plug.

I don't think that Hawkeye can turn the light off.

Peter
 
I managed to get a whole rear ARB with brand new ram for £60 and the block machining was £75, £20 per hose I have been quoted
 
MJI said:
I managed to get a whole rear ARB with brand new ram for £60 and the block machining was £75, £20 per hose I have been quoted
Click to expand...
Cooorrrr that's not a bad deal! My pipes are starting to look a little rusty, so will be on this soon, although I will probably swing more towards removal vs fixing it, as it's one less thing to go wrong again in the future, but we shall see
 
baronvonprepper said:
Cooorrrr that's not a bad deal! My pipes are starting to look a little rusty, so will be on this soon, although I will probably swing more towards removal vs fixing it, as it's one less thing to go wrong again in the future, but we shall see
Click to expand...


My repair is a lot less than a removal kit.

Still need to get 2 hoses and some adaptors to the 4 front pipes
 
My friendly LR specialist had a pair of used anti roll bars, so I got those plus all the new other parts, drop links, bushes. idler pulley, belt etc for just less than £200... last night I removed the rear ACE ram and anti roll bar and 90% fitted the standard one. Not too bad a job, just rusty bits everywhere.

In fairness to my local specialist, he said they can be repaired, but more often than not it'll be tricky to get the block to seal correctly. He had all the pipes and parts needed to repair the ACE and would have been happy to sell them to me, but he did say that he has two Discovery 2's the first one he removed the ACE himself and the second one he specifically looked for one without ACE.
 
Had someone play silly buggers with me last night.

Due to their very slow speed (20-30 in a 60 for over a mile, panic braking) I took them on a roundabout but then they booted it!!!!

ACE came into its own there, was on the gentle 2nd stage lean in full control.

ACE D2s handle well for a large off road car
 
Spent last two nights removing all the ACE parts. TBH I think my pipes were pretty rusted out all over. When I removed the front ones they just kinked over where they go under the wheel arch. I'm sure it would have given my further grief.
I fitted the standard rear anti-roll bar and bushes, and removed the front. I then realised that I'd been given two rear ones, so gotta go back to swap it this morning.
 
All finished.

Linked out pins 11-36 on the ECU

Took it out for a drive, feels exactly the same to me... obviously the ACE system is better that the passive system, just for my slow driving style it feels the same.

Anybody want to buy any ACE spares ? I have pump, ACE block, front and rear ARB's and rams
 
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