P

Pat Bryant

Member
Afternoon All,
Removed the PUMP to VALVE BLOCK (corroded) pipe on my 1999 TD5 ACE system after it leaked away nearly all the fluid; fortunate that I was on short trip. I think it may have been previously replaced as it is split by a union inside the wheel arch. Bit of a fiddle but I thought I had won this one until John Craddock (my local) parts told me it was obsolete and an internet search etc.does not help either. Anyone know where to find one? I called a hydraulic specialist but as soon as I said 'land Rover' they replied with "Ooh special fittings/threads/sizes etc." Not sure I believe that but then it was made in Solihull. I have read that a piece of 10mm soft copper pipe with brass compression fitting is an option but I worry that the system pressure is too high and if I try this method there is no going back as I will need to cut off the flared end.
Grateful for any help here. Best,
Pat
 
take the pipe ends and length to a local hydraulic hose place and see what they say. It can be done with hydraulic hoses.
 
Hi i'm thinking this is the pipe with the harmonic valve in it you will need this .The way i did mine was to join it just below rubber part if this has'nt burst it reconnect's inside the wheel arch any hydraulic hose company should be able to make up union's for it .
 
Thanks Chaps,
Useful comments (and I had no idea that a harmonic valve was involved, what does it do?). Since writing I have discovered that I can indeed get a pattern part to replace the old one. Eric at Salop 4 x 4 handily provided a part number (RQB000280) and suddenly they were everywhere! Thanks Eric. I like the economy of the copper pipe fix but all the pipes are a bit corroded so if I don't get a good seal I would have to replace both sections, having cut off the specially formed end of the JOINT - VALVE BLOCK pipe. The cost in this case is approaching that of an ACE removal job. I will get there eventually.
I mentioned the idea of putting in a (temporary) loop so the pump would just cycle fluid directly back to the reservoir but Eric told me that would wreck the pump and wasn't clear why? Thanks again for taking time to reply.
Best, Pat
 
Hi the harmonic valve / balancer is to reduce noise of the ace system as it can be quite noisy without like a drumming sound when pressurised i ripped mine out when one of the front pipe's went i then brought modified block and hydraulic hose's front to rear as landrover should had done no issue's since cost was roughly £550
 
Pat Bryant said:
Thanks Chaps,
Useful comments (and I had no idea that a harmonic valve was involved, what does it do?). Since writing I have discovered that I can indeed get a pattern part to replace the old one. Eric at Salop 4 x 4 handily provided a part number (RQB000280) and suddenly they were everywhere! Thanks Eric. I like the economy of the copper pipe fix but all the pipes are a bit corroded so if I don't get a good seal I would have to replace both sections, having cut off the specially formed end of the JOINT - VALVE BLOCK pipe. The cost in this case is approaching that of an ACE removal job. I will get there eventually.
I mentioned the idea of putting in a (temporary) loop so the pump would just cycle fluid directly back to the reservoir but Eric told me that would wreck the pump and wasn't clear why? Thanks again for taking time to reply.
Best, Pat
Click to expand...

Not sure this is correct. This idea of recirculating is a well published quick ACE repair, that many have performed with a piece of hose and clips. If the pump runs dry, it will wreck it completely.
 
You can bypass a split section with a pressure fitting. Use 10mm and tighten in 3 cycles to get the olive biting the pipe.
I would get your block drilled and tapped then fit hydraulic hoses, far easier. Future proofs the system.
 
2m hoses work well between block and ram.

The crimped flange splits and leaks on LR pipes.
 
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