Ian M in France

Ian M in France

Well-Known Member
Hi all just a quick question my ACE started to leak badly (D2 TD5), found the problem the banjo had come lose, tightened it and all okay but I would like to change the seals (copper washers),before using it just in case. At the moment in France post is a problem because of roads being blocked, Does any-one know if the seals are standard hydraulic parts I can get from a hydraulic hose company or a part just for land rover?
 
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Ian M in France said:
Hi all just a quick question my ACE started to leak badly (D2 TD5), found the problem the banjo had come lose, tightened it and all okay but I would like to change the seals (copper washers),before using it just in case. At the moment in France post is a problem because of roads being blocked, Does any-one know if the seals are standard hydraulic parts I can get from a hydraulic hose company or a part just for land rover?
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Remove your old one and take it to a hydraulics shop, its a pretty standard washer. But its not a copper washer, its a dowty washer, a metal washer with a rubber seal, they should match it up for you.
 
hi man
Jamiegreen said:
Remove your old one and take it to a hydraulics shop, its a pretty standard washer. But its not a copper washer, its a dowty washer, a metal washer with a rubber seal, they should match it up for you.
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Hi many thanks I will try that, haven't taken it off yet as does not seam to leak but would be happier if it was new
 
For what it’s worth, when I changed my ACE pipe on the back end I thought they were standard copper so didn’t have a replacement available when I had it all stripped down so just re-used the old ones (despite the workshop manual insisting they are replaced) and I’ve had no leaking over the last 2-3 months (average 4-500 miles a month).
 
Spot1 said:
For what it’s worth, when I changed my ACE pipe on the back end I thought they were standard copper so didn’t have a replacement available when I had it all stripped down so just re-used the old ones (despite the workshop manual insisting they are replaced) and I’ve had no leaking over the last 2-3 months (average 4-500 miles a month).
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Hi thanks think old one will be okay but as bit will not cost much think I will change it if I can get one
 
I THINK 14mm Dowty, but they are cheapish as a Land Rover product anyway
 
MJI said:
I THINK 14mm Dowty, but they are cheapish as a Land Rover product anyway
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I have looked at some of the places I get bits from in the UK and have not seen them on there sites, The local dealer is unlikely to have one and if I order one some where as the post is being held up by roads being blocked, my son's wife works for the post here and the lorry's carrying post are being blocked so might take sometime, if I can get it from hydraulic hose people would be good
 
By LR p/n is RYF100420 but as said any 14mm dowty washer for HP applications is good

RYF100420.jpg
 
Well went to the hydraulic pipe people got the bits no problem, I still seamed to have a leak, change seals and still leaked then found where the metal pipe went into the round part of the banjo is cracked, and leaking there and not from the seals so need to change pipe, does not look to much of a problem except I can not work out how pipe is joint to the valve block as it just seams to go in do I just undo bolts and pull out the pipe I want to change?
This pipe is one piece but the replacement I am looking at is 2 think that must be easier to fit,
 
Don't replace the whole pipe ask the hydraulic pipe guys to make you a long enough flexible pipe with suitabe banjo inserted to connect it to the actuator, cut the pipe near the valve block and connect the flexible hose there with compressive fittings like in the pic or modify the block, read the whole thread untill the end: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/ace-fluid-weep-front-of-valve-block.290298/

attachment.php


if you want to replace the pipes with original type you need new seals and collets at the valve block cos the old ones will be most probably ruined if they are reused
 
sierrafery said:
Don't replace the whole pipe ask the hydraulic pipe guys to make you a long enough flexible pipe with suitabe banjo inserted to connect it to the actuator, cut the pipe near the valve block and connect the flexible hose there with compressive fittings like in the pic or modify the block, read the whole thread untill the end: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/ace-fluid-weep-front-of-valve-block.290298/

attachment.php


if you want to replace the pipes with original type you need new seals and collets at the valve block cos the old ones will be most probably ruined if they are reused
Click to expand...


Seal £18
Pipe from specialist just over £20
 
Hi thanks all seams like a better idea I need to move a digger for Monday and will not have bits from UK earliest mid next week, I will finish a bit early tomorrow and see if I can get bits sorted out at hydraulic place, only thing might be getting something to fit metal pipe out hear not sure what they keep in stock
 
Any pipe which can bear up to 150 bar including the insertion at the banjo is good, i've seen the job done even with copper pipes
 
sierrafery said:
Any pipe which can bear up to 150 bar is good, i've seen the job done even with copper pipes
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Do not think flexible pipe will be problem but the connection to the metal pipe on the land rover I do not know what the O/D of this pipe is and hope they have a compression fitting to fit
 
Well tightened 10mm fittigs seem to work but iirc the original pipes are 3/8"(9.52mm) which are harder to find, this guy used 10mm fittings (neglect the copper thing)

 
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Ian M in France said:
thank 10mm will not a problem getting so will try that
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As SF says, they are 3/8" not 10mm but 10mm does work. The olives are quite loose so you have to crush them up quite tight. Don't overtighten them or you will strip the threads. (I did...:oops:)
 
I tried to get some-one to make up new hose but no-one had a banjo fitting that fitted so ordered front part of pipe (britpart comes in 2 bits)(arrived today), could not see I would gain anything from changing back as has no rust and think in time might take ace off as less to go wrong, I hope to join new pipe to old pipe with 3/8 coupling or if I can not find one here 10mm will let you know how it goes
 
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