No connector 17

But checked the power in green orange has 12v when ignition on

I am able to trigger the relay via Hawkeye but not any actuator or red light.

Looks like next test is to try another ECU
 
MJI said:
No connector 17

But checked the power in green orange has 12v when ignition on

I am able to trigger the relay via Hawkeye but not any actuator or red light.

Looks like next test is to try another ECU
Click to expand...
If you get your one out and tell me how you done it, you can have mine :p
But not flying back to the UK till the 2nd.
 
Jamiegreen said:
If you get your one out and tell me how you done it, you can have mine :p
But not flying back to the UK till the 2nd.
Click to expand...

Not removed mine yet as possible to test without physically removing it.

Bot no corrosion or anything

Have removed ECUs before, small sockets and squash hands in
 
At leatst you know Fery that I won't be ripping it all out and converting.

I am no wwondering if one of the ECU power line in has had a component fried as it ia very much like no 12V on main feed.

If I knew which 12v feed was monitored by the ECU I could place the problem better.
 
The gist is that when the warning lamp comes as fault detection on ECU request(not for some wiring issue on the lamp's circuit) the ECU cuts the feed from the relay's coil to send the system in locked bars condition then the ECU has no ignition feed either that's why that trick with bridged relay's contact cos then you should be able at least to see the live data for pressures and accelerometers, that data you've seen first is the unfed's ECU feedback so irrelevant
 
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sierrafery said:
The gist is that when the warning lamp comes as fault detection on ECU request(not for some wiring issue on the lamp's circuit) the ECU cuts the feed from the relay's coil to send the system in locked bars condition then the ECU has no ignition feed either that's why that trick with bridged relay's contact cos then you should be able at least to see the live data for pressures and accelerometers, that data you've seen first is the unfed's ECU feedback so irrelevant
Click to expand...


That makes sense, so could be anything
 
Bridged the relay, 2 pins on own.

Pressure sensor 16.28 bar
Residual Pressure 20.00 bar
System Pressure 3.50 bar

So either low pressure, or sensor, or loom

Measure 0.00 if unplugged.
 
Replace the pressure transducer cos it's suspect with those readings even though if still no fault logged after you removed the relay the ECU is suspect too
 
Dropped a loaned sensor in and 15-17 Bar

Same as before, only fault code moaning about the main relay not cutting off (I jumpered it)

So what creates the pressure?

Is it the pump only?

Or something leaking in the block?

Fluid is circulating in the reservior.
 
MJI said:
Dropped a loaned sensor in and 15-17 Bar

Same as before, only fault code moaning about the main relay not cutting off (I jumpered it)

So what creates the pressure?

Is it the pump only?

Or something leaking in the block?

Fluid is circulating in the reservior.
Click to expand...
you get pressure when solenoids switch oil flow to the rams rather than return
 
MJI said:
Any easy solenoid test?
Click to expand...
?the system is open center type in that oil flows to block then straight back by return theres little pressure until oil is diverted to rams and cant return,have you tried testing it with hawkeye or similar
 
You'll not get low presure code at 15-17 bar ... just confirm, with bridged relay's contact do you get voltage across the other two cavities where the coil should be?... on another note, the pressure control valve(on the back side) must have 5.6 Ohm and the two DCVs 2.7 Ohm so you can measure resistances

that fault code comes with relay in situ?
 
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