02Disco2

02Disco2

Well-Known Member
Is is possible?!

The bush on my front ACE has finally given up (RBX101740) and I'm tying to figure out if I can get away without removing and disconnecting the ACE ram. It looks like I can take the bolts out of the two bushes at the roll bar end and then remove the bar and bracket/holder from that - does anyone know that's done it?

I dont have the tools or skills to remove and re-press the bush so hoping I can do the above and take it to a local garage that will press the bush in for me.

I think (and hope) its just the one bush and not the split/double thing on the arm itself as that would cause more challenges - and yes, I do want to keep the ACE as everything else appears to be working fine!

Cheers
 
I can't explain how but i know that my mechanic replaced ACE bushes without disconnecting the pipework that's for sure
 
Ive done both of mine you can unbolt the ACE ram and leave it tied to the car but you need a slot tool to get the piston rod out then you have to remove the anti roll bare to get the bush out, see my post,
REAR ACE BUSH REPLACEMENT Jun 19, 2021. , or, for the front one its ACE BUSH REPLACEMENT Jul 26, 2020 , you will need to knock out the centre or pull it out as shown in the rear ace post, then cut the bush metal out sleeve, I used some 12mm threaded bar and a coule of sockets to pull the new bush in, I removed the dust cover before pulling it in so I did not damage the rubber dust cover, one very in portant step to do is get your puller ready remove the dust covers, then put the new bush in your freezer over night, then before you try to install it warm the hole with a blow torch, then take the new bush out of the freezer and pull it in , it does go in fine when it nice a cold
tools you will need to buy or make

20200820_102432.jpg
20200820_102458.jpg
20200820_105654.jpg
 
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frostythor said:
Ive done both of mine you can unbolt the ACE ram and leave it tied to the car but you need a slot tool to get the piston rod out then you have to remove the anti roll bare to get the bush out, see my post,
REAR ACE BUSH REPLACEMENT Jun 19, 2021. , or, for the front one its ACE BUSH REPLACEMENT Jul 26, 2020 , you will need to knock out the centre or pull it out as shown in the rear ace post, then cut the bush metal out sleeve, I used some 12mm threaded bar and a coule of sockets to pull the new bush in, I removed the dust cover before pulling it in so I did not damage the rubber dust cover, one very in portant step to do is get your puller ready remove the dust covers, then put the new bush in your freezer over night, then before you try to install it warm the hole with a blow torch, then take the new bush out of the freezer and pull it in , it does go in fine when it nice a cold
tools you will need to buy or make
Click to expand...
Thanks @frostythor , really helpful and a good idea on the slotted tool to use a bolt.
I didn’t find your thread when I searched before - will try again and have a read!

Also @frostythor and apologies if this is a daft question but I can't figure out in my head how the hollow socket bit works - I get the slotted bolt you made fits on the end of the ram to turn, but what does the socket fit into/onto to prevent the ram from spinning?

thanks!
 
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HI,again I have a set of sockets the grip on the out side of the socket, not a 1/2in drive so if a bolt is 6 inch long I can still use the socket, unlike a normal socket I would need to uses a spanner, I had already cut up and welded a socket on the piece of steel, but could not enlarge the hole in the socket as it was to hard to drill, so I bought the extra deep socket to cut the bottom off to make a new one, slotted tool was made out of an old oil pump drive shaft, but was lucly to find a set of Halford advance through socket lerking in my tool bin on my motor home

if you look at the end nut on the ram piston is inside the housing, so you cant use a spanner, but I gave mine agood soak with penatrating oil for a few days, and they came off OK, the only problem was when the nut is just about off, the nut stipped my slot tool gripping so I cut off the dust cover, and cut a short piece of 13mm copper yube in two, the gused it to grip, the rod, once you have read both posts if you have any other question just ask OK

this is the socket set note it not 1/2inch drive, I can put my finger through it and the handle grips the out side of the socket
20210810_085503.jpg
20210810_085520.jpg
 
Last edited:
frostythor said:
HI,again I have a set of sockets the grip on the out side of the socket, not a 1/2in drive so if a bolt is 6 inch long I can still use the socket, unlike a normal socket I would need to uses a spanner, I had already cut up and welded a socket on the piece of steel, but could not enlarge the hole in the socket as it was to hard to drill, so I bought the extra deep socket to cut the bottom off to make a new one, slotted tool was made out of an old oil pump drive shaft, but was lucly to find a set of Halford advance through socket lerking in my tool bin on my motor home

if you look at the end nut on the ram piston is inside the housing, so you cant use a spanner, but I gave mine agood soak with penatrating oil for a few days, and they came off OK, the only problem was when the nut is just about off, the nut stipped my slot tool gripping so I cut off the dust cover, and cut a short piece of 13mm copper yube in two, the gused it to grip, the rod, once you have read both posts if you have any other question just ask OK

this is the socket set note it not 1/2inch drive, I can put my finger through it and the handle grips the out side of the socketView attachment 245106 View attachment 245107
Click to expand...
thanks @frostythor - that makes sense now appreciate it! I've had a read through your other posts, really useful too - ready to tackle it myself now!
 
Hi Well good luck with it, I see your in Hamshire too, In in the New Forest waterside area, are you close
 
frostythor said:
Hi, any update on the repair
Click to expand...
Yes, sorry forgot to update!

All done. Replaced the two “top hat” style bearings that connect the roll bar to the bracket and had my local garage press out the old short arm bearing and push in the new one (decided to go with a genuine one in the hope that it’ll last another 20 years!).

managed to get away without taking off the ace ram.
Replaced the front ARB bushes and clamps while I had the roll bar off and put a new HT nut and bolt on the splined bracket/clamp that is shorted than the original (with the funny torque end) so it doesn’t contact my steering guard bracket.

The clunking is now gone and everything feels much firmer so very happy - and it gave me a good excuse to buy a decent through-socket set which was an added bonus!!

thanks all for the tips, really helpful
 
I didn’t really take any this time unfortunately- it was over a few days so did it bit by bit. Only the attached and that doesn’t help to show anything much!!

the hardest part of the job by far was removing and refitting the bloody ARB clamps and bushes - I found that using some wide stilston style clamps on the bracket edge and chassis and camping together till the bolt bit into the thread was the best way - such a simple job but such a pain!!
 

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