Hi I would rip it all out get modified valve block an convert it all to hydraulic hose I did this with mine when one of the front pipes started leaking no issues since you'll be chasing pipes and there are 8 of them at great expense mine came in all in total with modified block an hydraulic hose came about £550 doing it myself side of the road hope this helps
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Hi, you'll understand from the attached picture just try to push the plate back as to not disturb the non leaking pipes release the bracket which holds them to the chassis as to be able to pull out the leaking pipe and replace the seal, this one: https://www.lrdirect.com/RVW100010-supplied-by-LRDIRECT-branded-OEM.html but order 4 x https://www.lrdirect.com/ANR6700-supplied-by-britpart-branded-oem.html and change them all . After you pull out the pipe do somehow to clean well the hole where the seal goes and put oil on the orings. that black thing on the seal is just to hit it with a hammer untill the seal is in then disposable.
For the future you can remove the block or buy a used one and addapt compression fittings to it for flexible pipes see this ACE fluid weep front of valve block ... you can prepare all you need to be ready to fit then at a point you can convert to flexibe pipes and you'll be leak free for eternity, the market is full with cheap(ish) valve blocks due to the de-ACE hysteria of those who choosed to get rid of the whole system due to a leaking pipe or some other fault, e.g https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Discovery-2-Ace-Valve-Block-Pump-In-Good-Working-Order/223972288014?_trkparms=aid=1110001&algo=SPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=225114&meid=55f6c72e6a6542e48d27175415ac7d76&pid=100010&rk=2&rkt=12&sd=324114485503&itm=223972288014&pmt=0&noa=1&pg=2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109
i have the whole setup(modified block + pipes) prepared but not fitted it yet, i'll wait for a leak first, costed me the equivalent of around 150 quid all in.
For the future you can remove the block or buy a used one and addapt compression fittings to it for flexible pipes see this ACE fluid weep front of valve block ... you can prepare all you need to be ready to fit then at a point you can convert to flexibe pipes and you'll be leak free for eternity, the market is full with cheap(ish) valve blocks due to the de-ACE hysteria of those who choosed to get rid of the whole system due to a leaking pipe or some other fault, e.g https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Discovery-2-Ace-Valve-Block-Pump-In-Good-Working-Order/223972288014?_trkparms=aid=1110001&algo=SPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=225114&meid=55f6c72e6a6542e48d27175415ac7d76&pid=100010&rk=2&rkt=12&sd=324114485503&itm=223972288014&pmt=0&noa=1&pg=2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109
i have the whole setup(modified block + pipes) prepared but not fitted it yet, i'll wait for a leak first, costed me the equivalent of around 150 quid all in.
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Megamagelol1
Member
Thanks so much mate your a life saver again
Megamagelol1
Member
Thanks mate
Megamagelol1
Member
Hi mate I’m finally tackling this as all the bits have come in having trouble removing the clamping plate after the nuts have been removed it seems welded on haha, don’t want to damage anything though, any suggestions
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Use some kind of spray eventually heat and tap it all around with hammer by or try to force a flat head screwdriver under it or something... you'll have to find your way as mine was removed by a mechanic
Megamagelol1
Member
Okay mate I’ve sprayed it up will heat it a little and keep chipping away at it
MJI
Well-Known Member
I had to destroy my pipes to get them out the front.
Megamagelol1
Member
Megamagelol1
Member
Right got it all off cleaned up replaced o rings and still ****ing leaking I’m thinking of modifing a block , do I need to get in re machined ?
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
So did you replace the o-rings or the whole seal?
Megamagelol1
Member
Whole seal mage I’ve found a modified block for £250
Megamagelol1
Member
Right I’m picking my modified block up tomorrow, I gave it a good go but I can just tell it’s never going to seal again properly, flexi hoses and I’m going to connect to my metal hoses for now until they leak they replace all the hoses
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Good choice, maybe there was a crack in the block or you didnt push the seal 100% straight when you fittd it then it fails right away
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
WARNING: if the pump will get empty you MUST prime it well after refilling the system or it'll fail
Megamagelol1
Member
I’m going to ask if you will talk my through the whole bleed procedure tomorrow as my Hawkeye does it and like you say priming the pump and all that, I want to know what’s the best type of cutter to cut the original metal pipes? As to not squash the ends so I can refit also I’m going to need to buy some olives and the nuts for the connector
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
I can't recommend you a cutter but i can tell you that you don't need hawkeye to bleed it cos it will bleed itself but priming the pump is a different story, you'll have to fill the system then undo the outlet banjo on the pump and ask somebody to start the engine then when a good pressure is coming out there stop the engine right away and tighten the banjo back, maybe would be good to replace the dowty washers(RYF100420) cos once disturbed they can leak as it will be up to 140 Bar there... when all is done go for a harsh ride with lots of cornering or drive it in 8's if you have where and it will bleed itself then top up the fluid again if necessary. That's all
Megamagelol1
Member
Right okay mate that sounds scary haha what’s the ace bleed procedure ? As I’m probably going to loose most of the fluid out of it, I don’t want to damage the pump after doing all this, I’m scared haha
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
I don't get your dillema mate, read again my post cos IMO it's clear enough, especially that i said "That's all"