Firstly are you 100% sure pipes are correct, unfornately I can only remember bottom = back for rear bar.

Use two car ramps diagonally. drive up on them, then off, swap then up and off, check fluid level at each stage.

Also self test should give useful information.

Transducer failure is common.
 
i think hoses are correct
tried the ramps
tried bleeding with nonocom but nothing happens
been for a drive but its not 100%
this is my hose set up
 

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That setup seems OK, if no valve block activity while the power bleeding is started then it's possible that nanocom caught a correct code and the ECU is fubar albeit i can't confirm that nanocom works well for bleeding as when it comes to ACE i use only hawkeye which makes it bouncing
 
That setup seems OK, if no valve block activity while the power bleeding is started then it's possible that nanocom caught a correct code and the ECU is fubar albeit i can't confirm that nanocom works well for bleeding as when it comes to ACE i use only hawkeye which makes it bouncing
So changed the transducer
Not much has changed but don’t get a warning light anymore

Got a different computer and did a system check it failed
Results in pics
Any ideas
 

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That "system test" is not relevant unless the tool is a Testbook T4, the relay should be on all the time once the ignition is on cos it delivers the ignition feed for the system, if the relay is off the warning light must be on
 
That "system test" is not relevant unless the tool is a Testbook T4, the relay should be on all the time once the ignition is on cos it delivers the ignition feed for the system, if the relay is off the warning light must be on
Okay still doesn’t feel 100%
Checked the fuse under bonnet and relay is fine

When I test the system with this computer it does bounce around so a step closer

But don’t seem to be getting anything at
Direction valve 1
Direction valve 2
Or pressure control valve

Even when driving it’s 0

I’m starting to think ECU but not sure
 

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But don’t seem to be getting anything at
Direction valve 1
Direction valve 2
Or pressure control valve
But you've got readings with nanocom before the transducer swap and as i said on live inputs nanocom is reliable... if it was a fault on that path the warning lamp should be on... though the ECU can be a suspect anyway as they are not the most reliable bits, you'll know only if you replace it with a knwn good one, it's plug and play
 
If it helps check the valve block for leaks ,theres 4 pipes at the front of the block that are prone to fail after a number of years, the reservoir would show level drop and its shared with the PAS but separated inside its tank so you'd see a difference in levels. Get it done asap as the next thing itl be the red warning light when all the fluid has gone presuming its leaking that is., another option is to delete the ACE system completely unless you do serious off-roading or throw it into corners etc. its not noticeable in my opinion. Pipes are being replaced on discos after ten years on some ,
 

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