Arghhhhhh !

I’m about ready to give up…

ABS fault won’t bloody clear. Had a look with Nanocom, it showed healthy speeds from each wheel sensor. Then threw up an e1 then an e2 code.

when checking faults in Wabco, it says ‘normal rotation detected on all wheels’ then ‘front left sensor open circuit’

both of these things cannot be true

I’m feeling mightily depressed about this -and then Fuse 10 fails again (something shorting in seat) and the EAS decides to get in in the act

I’m looking for the big ‘Factory Reset’ button.
 
New battery in.
Sensor resistance is ok -and ECU can detect movement.

I wonder whether unplugging and replugging ECU would help…
 
awkwardbob said:
New battery in.
Sensor resistance is ok -and ECU can detect movement.

I wonder whether unplugging and replugging ECU would help…
Click to expand...
Could always be a corroded connector on the ECU so unplugging and reconnecting might just help.
The open circuit could be intermittent.
 
Well, blow me… it looks like there is an actual real fault with the ABS sensor - not sure how that could’ve happened while she was parked up, but hey ho. Just hope it’s easier to extract than the other one !

a replacement EAS valve block arrived in the post today. I’m unsure whether to fit it and refurb mine or do the o-rings on the replacement unit before fitting -it *looks* in better nick than the one that’s fitted…
 
awkwardbob said:
a replacement EAS valve block arrived in the post today. I’m unsure whether to fit it and refurb mine or do the o-rings on the replacement unit before fitting -it *looks* in better nick than the one that’s fitted…
Click to expand...
as I've been told always go with ya gut feeling if you think refurbing the replacement one do that
 
Yeah, I kinda think it’s the ‘sensible’ thing to do -as long as I don’t end up making it worse through, what was the phrase again… ‘ham-fisted Gibbonry’.

so *just* the sensor to change, the heater matrix o-rings and the air block to rebuild then…. <sigh>
 
oakey said:
I found the most effective method with an EAS block is to email Kurt.
Removes the nagging feeling of "Did I f*ck it up"
Click to expand...

who’s Kurt and where does one find him ?
-only joking, Kurt, don’t worry, I won’t be pestering you.

will attempt to go through the various how-to’s, it *seems* relatively straightforward if fiddly
 
Do one valve at a time or at least number them as you take them off with a matching number on the block. Check for white powder in the air ways.
 
Is that desiccant ?
I changed the drier as it was a bit leaky which helped for a while.

is something like a crochet hook handy for retrieving the beasties ? Or should I 3D print an implement from softer plastic ?
 
So just to close the loop on this one, swapped out the ABS sensor for a £20 Allmakes one and the problem has gone !

Still baffled how that could’ve happened with it sitting idle but there you go.

Cheap, easy fix in the end.

thanks again for all your help !

Bob
 
awkwardbob said:
So just to close the loop on this one, swapped out the ABS sensor for a £20 Allmakes one and the problem has gone !

Still baffled how that could’ve happened with it sitting idle but there you go.

Cheap, easy fix in the end.

thanks again for all your help !

Bob
Click to expand...
If you look inside your dead sensor, you will see that it's a fairly fragile simple device, so a broken wire from the coil can easily happen over time due to corrosion. Pleased you sorted it and thanks for let us know.
 
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