sierrafery
Well-Known Member
You need genuine exactly like it's on the vehicle so you have to check what type you have, short one has a plug and the long one is hardwired to the ECU
Bone9
Well-Known Member
Great thanks, I need a short one then. Mine plugs in on the inner wing. I'll get a wabco one. The bearing seams fine with no play or noise but I have been told to replace that instead of just a sensor. What do you think?
Lazydave
Well-Known Member
I changed the front LH sensor on mine and still got abs light at random times, mainly going around roundabouts but could go miles with no issue. New hub cured all problems. There was no play evident.
Bone9
Well-Known Member
So the safest bet is just to do the hub. Makes sense, should last me a while then.
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
In 90% of cases the probem is with the hub and then you get ''air gap'' or ''signal'' fault code but of the code is about short or open circuit then the sensor is enough. Buy a branded hub cos the market is full with cheap aftermarkets which have weak sensor or less teeth on the reluctor ring or misadjusted from factory, it's a lottery.
Bone9
Well-Known Member
Great thank you. The codes are... 119 - Front left sensor (output intermittent) and 134 Shuttle Valve Switch (Electrical Failure)
Bone9
Well-Known Member
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
For the intermittent output better go for the hub, for the SVS you have to do the ''option B" wiring mod, there are tutorials where they splice into the switch's wiring and into the YG wire, that's not correct, you have to cut and prolonge out the switch wires and cut the YG wire too
yes that hub is good enough
yes that hub is good enough
Bone9
Well-Known Member
It's strange that both codes came at the same time. I was hoping the sensor caused both codes.
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Then it's possible that one is hystorical, or both things are at fault so erase them and read again imediately after you get the amigos back, a sensor won't trigger SVS fault nor vice versa whatsoever
Bone9
Well-Known Member
Will do, thanks.
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
BTW if you have diagnostic tool you can check on live inputs if the sensor or the hub is at fault cos if it's the sensor it will give bad input while stationary, they should all have between 2 - 2.4V
Bone9
Well-Known Member
I have torque pro here but have access to snap on at a friend's garage. Get advice, thank you.
