Hi All,

6 weeks after making the mistake of buying a freelander I am still not driving the damn thing !!!

I have the three amigos issue, which has been shown as faulty passenger sensor - i went to replace this, but the old sensor was seized in the hub and was not coming out. Due to teh fact that the bearing in that hub was shot, i ended up buying a new hub assembly to get fitted. This went on fine, and BONUS! it came with the sensor in it (again i dont think it will be removeable easily) HOWEVER - once fitted it turns out that the sensor has a female connector, as does the connection in my engine bay

Does anyone know of a male to male connector that i could use ? OR my other option is to get the old ABS sensor that was chopped off (with a male connector) cut one of the female connectors off, and use some chop bock to connect it together - would this work ??? or am i just being too hopefull ?

Also my mechanic has said the rear axle mounts need replacing - are these the same as the rear diff mounts or are they different things ??

thanks

Ian

i have a bit more info on the mount - having spoken to him he said i need the front diff mount (apparently it is warn as if you release the clutch to quickly it causes a clunk?) and it is the one nearest to teh prop shaft - can anyone shed any light as to what this might be ???

the guy doing the work is a bit of an old boy, so he tells me (with my limited knowledge) over the phone what parts he needs and i orde them from ebay

any help clearing up what this part would be listed as would be much appreciated

thanks

ian

You are looking for final drive/ rear diff mount

Its the rear diff. front mounting. A common problem but easy to change.
Check this thread
www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/rear-clunking-can-anyone-help-53670.html

thanks it was the front mount for the rear diff !

gpng to try and solder the two sensors together, dont have any other option as I doubt I will get it out of the hub assembly - unless I drill it out

Take care! I understand from reading previous posts that the sensors changed from passive to active type after 2001 MY. On early ABS systems the ABS light goes out after reaching a speed of 8 MPH, where on later systems the ABS light goes out after the initial lamp test on switch on. It is possible that the connections were reversed so that the two types of sensor would not be mixed up. Check with main dealer if there are two types of sensor, or hopefully someone else will confirm / reject what I have posted. Good luck, Eric.