thank you - I found the post about this (might have been yours) and did clear the fault.. I got the wink and then the off at the end of the drive.

I am hoping this fault was alsa what was wrong with the cruise control... will find that out Tuesday....

stuartm said:

If you haven't already - what you want to do now is clear the stored fault from the memory - by removing the link and putting the relay back in and then turning the ignition off and on again during the blink test.

That way on start up you'll get an on-off-on which will go off again just down the road.

If the light does not blink off - but still goes off when you drive away - it means there is a "stored fault" - i.e. one in the past.

Despite me clearing all the faults last week I noticed yesterday I did not get the off blink on start up - read the code and got a 2-3 (inoperative pump). I just cleared it. I reckon it was a glitch.

This makes it much easier to diagnose a real problem!

My mistake was - once having found the full list of codes - was to try and fix the first one by removing testing all ther relays and all the connectors! This caused about 15 faults to register.

I reckon I cauld get the blinks up and cleared in my sleep know!

Click to expand...

Kev627 said:

The ABS light on my '94 Discovery has been on for at least three quarters of the time I have owned it. It hasn't been on for 3 weeks now which I thought was a blessing as it had MoT on Wednesday.

Bloody thing came on during test and so failed!

*curses*

Unfortunatly that wasn't only thing it failed on though...

Click to expand...

re this, I took garage to a local independant Land Rover garage and asked them to fix the problems so my Landie would pass MoT second time of asking.

They replaced the relevant ABS sensor (along with other things on MoT list) and with a blank dashboard I took Disco to retest which it promptly passed.

I told tester where I got work done and he said "I used to work there and they are nothing but a bunch of cowboys!"



"I left there and came here. Several times a month they would bring cars for MoT and if they failed they would take car away, bring it back a week later and none of the faults would have been fixed! Before long I would ask them before I even booked car in for test have you even looked at what it failed MoT on? If not sod off, fix them and then bring it back."

I was feeling OK though as this garage had got my car through MoT.

However...

Two weeks later the light came back on and hasn't gone out since.

Does this indicate sendor fault, fault with wiring or faulty ABS?

mjltigger said:

I am hoping this fault was alsa what was wrong with the cruise control... will find that out Tuesday....

Click to expand...

It could easily be the problem as I'm sure you know the cruise is linked into the brake system but do have a thorough check of the usual vacuum hoses, switches, fuses etc etc etc.

classic kev said:

It could easily be the problem as I'm sure you know the cruise is linked into the brake system but do have a thorough check of the usual vacuum hoses, switches, fuses etc etc etc.

Click to expand...

being thoroughly lazy I have a long motorway drive on Tuesday so will try it.. if it works then can just foret about it, if it doesn't then will be searching for help on here... at least cruise control is more than 3 letters long so will actually be able to find something...

Hi folks, new at this forum thing but sorted my own airbag problems from the advise here so am hoping I can find more with my td5's brand new brain teaser. My ABS light has recently lit up on a random basis and after heavy breaking to get rid of a persistant tailgator, my abs randomly does it's little jitter thing while breaking and won't do anything but jitter when breaking in reverse. You guys think parts and servicing bite's in the motherland, you would not believe the costs involved in the colonies!

you know this threads 2 years old?

Well - I believe your TD5 is a newer model than my 300TDI - so will have the "ODB" connecter. I understand this was introduced by the EEC to standardise fault readers accross the manufacturers. The upshot is that any garage should be able to read it or you can a reader from EBAY for about £30.

On saying that - you should be able to identify your model here http://www.blackbox-solutions.com/docs/MASC-LandRover.pdf and then get the manual from here - MeritorWABCO Literature - although I have to say it's not clear which yours is!

Not sure if your model supports a "blink test" which involves shorting a couple of connectors and then the lights blink out the fault codes. You will have to check your manual.

On saying all this - the first thing I would do would be:

Check and clean all the connections - particulary to ABS unit, motor and sensors - DO NOT DISCONNECT THEM WITH THE IGNITION ON AS IT
REGISTERS MORE FAULTS
Jack up and remove each wheel, spray sensor with WD40 and tap down as this narrows the air gap - which is a common fault.
Good luck!

Hold on there
your first problem is the car MAY not stop at low speed.

Now at the danger of upsetting the more technical people (and I would add far more knowledgeable then me) lets look at at the problem in simple terms;

ABS is simply designed to stop your wheels from stopping or Locking when braking.

In order to come to a complete standstill the ABS system must turn itself off (generally around 6 to 15mph) or the ABS will engage not allowing the car to stop.

Sound Familiar??

Your ABS sensors are sending wrong signals to the ABS unit

Follow the ABS sensor wires to the connector (under the bonnet on top of the front wings).

If you disconnect this connector the car should operate in none ABS mode, I ran mine like this for a couple of months while I checked the entire system then replaced both front sensors.

I have also heard of problems being caused by the brake light switch, this is easy and cheap to change.

When changing the sensors also change the bush and oil seal or the sensors will simply ‘bounce out’ of position.

Best of luck, you will need it
Sean

hmm...

the abs does stop wheels locking when braking.
but only if it detects one or more wheel rotating at a slower speen than the others.

if all 4 are spinning at the same speed while braking, the abs isnt there, not working, same as a non abs.

a faulty sensor will give erratic signals, the ecu will act accordingly.

get the fault codes read to find out whats happening, then fix the active fault.
experience says big air gaps on sensors, so as already been said, push them in.
other that that, use the diagnostics.
cant remember which motor we're on about, and aint re-reading all the thread,
but if its td5 your gonna spend money stabbing in the dark trying to fix it.
READ THE FAULT CODES!
disconnecting sensors will flag up a fault and operate in safety mode, if you
want to disable the abs, pull the pump fuse. (will also flag up a fault, and fail an mot)