chasman · Feb 6, 2013

My Nanocom Evolution says the following:

NANOCOM - WABD.APP - WABCO ABS D type faults file
11-01

NO POWER AT PUMP MOTOR RELAY

011 TIMES

---

I've checked all the engine compartment fuses including the Maxis with a continuity tester (both legs of each fuse in situ). All OK.

I pulled the black relay and used my Sykes Pickavant relay tester which gave it a green light after cycling it ten times.

Any suggestions?

Datatek · Feb 6, 2013

Pressure switch on the pump/abs assembly, or duff fuse box.

wammers · Feb 6, 2013

Are you saying you have an ABS fault message on the dash display. Or that is what is what you found stored in the ECU. What year is your car?

chasman · Feb 6, 2013

wammers said:
Are you saying you have an ABS fault message on the dash display. Or that is what is what you found stored in the ECU. What year is your car?

I got ABS FAULT on the dash display, plugged in the Nanocom and found this message. If I clear it, it comes back again. Brake pedal is soft even pumping it with the engine running.

Battery is 100% as I charged it last night.

2000 on a W

Datatek · Feb 6, 2013

chasman said:
I got ABS FAULT on the dash display, plugged in the Nanocom and found this message. If I clear it, it comes back again. Brake pedal is soft even pumping it with the engine running.

Battery is 100% as I charged it last night.

Pressure switch failed. Do a search it's happened to others.

chasman · Feb 6, 2013

Datatek said:
Pressure switch failed. Do a search it's happened to others.

Bugger. Best I get it towed to a garage then. I've done washer pumps and the EAS pump myself but brakes are a bit hairy for someone with no proper qualifications or experience.

Cossie David · Feb 6, 2013

I had the same problem, i got another pump and pressure switch of e bay, i clamped the pipes to change it and never had to bleed the brakes

chasman · Feb 6, 2013

Cossie David said:
I had the same problem, i got another pump and pressure switch of e bay, i clamped the pipes to change it and never had to bleed the brakes

Maybe I should give it a go then... I guess I'll know straight away if I've done it right or not because the pedal will firm up and the message will clear. Does clamping damage the tubes if you get it wrong?

TAKdriver · Feb 6, 2013

chasman said:
Bugger. Best I get it towed to a garage then. I've done washer pumps and the EAS pump myself but brakes are a bit hairy for someone with no proper qualifications or experience.

Pressure switch requires no bleeding of brakes or any other brake function : read my "how to" with pics.
I suggest you contact Emmots, our sponsor and ask Joe if he has a pressure switch : ask him to check it before sending out : you can get another duffer which sends you off on wrong tracks.

Can be done by duffers.....I'm one.

chasman · Feb 6, 2013

Cheers, I'll drop them an email now.

Cossie David · Feb 7, 2013

chasman said:
Maybe I should give it a go then... I guess I'll know straight away if I've done it right or not because the pedal will firm up and the message will clear. Does clamping damage the tubes if you get it wrong?

You dont have to clamp them very tight, i clamped the pipes and removed the complete pump and fitted the new one, connected the pipes and removed clamps and everything was ok, took me about 20 miinutes

wammers · Feb 7, 2013

chasman said:
Maybe I should give it a go then... I guess I'll know straight away if I've done it right or not because the pedal will firm up and the message will clear. Does clamping damage the tubes if you get it wrong?

Clamping flexible pipes is standard practice. You can buy special clamps for the job or carefully use a G clamp.

chasman · Feb 7, 2013

TAKdriver said:
Pressure switch requires no bleeding of brakes or any other brake function : read my "how to" with pics. Can be done by duffers.....I'm one.

Can't find that "How to"... could someone post a link, please? I spent a good hour searching before posting this request... cheers!

PS As you said Emmotts have a tested switch for £125 which I'm ordering immediately after this.

Grit Valve · Feb 7, 2013

chasman said:
Can't find that "How to"... could someone post a link, please? I spent a good hour searching before posting this request... cheers!

PS As you said Emmotts have a tested switch for £125 which I'm ordering immediately after this.

He is getting greedy now! loads on eBay for that including pump and accumulator !

Pay by pay pay and your safe

TAKdriver · Feb 7, 2013

chasman said:
Can't find that "How to"... could someone post a link, please? I spent a good hour searching before posting this request... cheers!

PS As you said Emmotts have a tested switch for £125 which I'm ordering immediately after this.

That sound a tad pricey for just the pressure switch :I might be wrong.

TAKdriver · Feb 7, 2013

chasman said:
Can't find that "How to"... could someone post a link, please? I spent a good hour searching before posting this request... cheers!

PS As you said Emmotts have a tested switch for £125 which I'm ordering immediately after this.

Chas

How to Test Your ABS Pump
Hope this gets it to you ...first time I've posted a link !!
If all you're doing is changing the pressure switch all you need do is undo the 3 bolts holding the pump : unscrew the pressures switch ( see pics at link)which will require firm attention : screw in replacement.
I have no recollection of having any fluidloss or clamping pipes for this exercise.
Hope it helps.
Tell Emmotts they're a tad pricey on your switch !

TAKdriver · Feb 8, 2013

chasman said:
Can't find that "How to"... could someone post a link, please? I spent a good hour searching before posting this request... cheers!

PS As you said Emmotts have a tested switch for £125 which I'm ordering immediately after this.

Chas, Not suggesting you try this : just telling you it's something I did : at the time I was trying to figure out the problem I was aware that the pump would fire up by shorting it at the pump connector. In desperation I eventually rigged up a wire, ran it though to drivers seat ( through the inside of F wing ) to a spring loaded switch which I fixed onto panel below steering wheel. When ABS light came on I just pressed switch, pump fired and brakes tickety-boo !
At least it kept me running.:crazy_driver:

chasman · Feb 8, 2013

Okay I found the fault... I had a cluster of errors last week including ABS FAULT, TRACTION FAILURE, GEARBOX FAULT plus problems with the EAS, total failure to start etc.

They turned out just to be low battery (Nanocom showed 8.75 volts at the pump) but while diagnosing them I was pulling relays and using a tester to cycle them. I charged the battery and they all cleared except the ABS FAULT. At this point remember I was sure the relay was fine.

It's embarrassing but during all the flap I'd accidentally stuck the black relay in the vacant RL10 slot instead of RL17.

Lessons learned, stay calm, be methodical and always take a picture! Also sometimes an error message means exactly what it says!

I hope this helps someone else out and thanks to you all. Sorry I wasted your time.

Grit Valve · Feb 8, 2013

Well done ,never mind happy motoring

Datatek · Feb 8, 2013

chasman said:
Okay I found the fault... I had a cluster of errors last week including ABS FAULT, TRACTION FAILURE, GEARBOX FAULT plus problems with the EAS, total failure to start etc.

They turned out just to be low battery (Nanocom showed 8.75 volts at the pump) but while diagnosing them I was pulling relays and using a tester to cycle them. I charged the battery and they all cleared except the ABS FAULT. At this point remember I was sure the relay was fine.

It's embarrassing but during all the flap I'd accidentally stuck the black relay in the vacant RL10 slot instead of RL17.

Lessons learned, stay calm, be methodical and always take a picture! Also sometimes an error message means exactly what it says!

I hope this helps someone else out and thanks to you all. Sorry I wasted your time.

Good on you for admitting your error

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