aaronmorris
Head's a shed
Not hard dude, Take your time and you'll get good results.
I used these last time.
Omi-Cron 2k Fast Activator 2.5L Paint & Lacquer Hardener 2.5 Litre Car Paint | eBay
Omi-Cron 2K Universal Thinner Fast 5L 35-209 | eBay
Or I used this the time before.
5L 2 Pack (2K) Clostermann Universal Paint Lacquer Primer Base Thinner CL20UT/5 | eBay
EXPRESS 2K PAINT HARDENER MS 2.5 LITRES PAINT ACTIVATOR FAST HARDENER 2 PACK 2.5 | eBay
Both do the job so up to you which you choose.
Although if you're going to do it in this stupid heat then you may want to use some slower thinners.
Oh and cheers, Much appreciated
cowasaki
Well-Known Member
That'll be the problem....
I don't think you should be filling the starter up with water!
I don't think you should be filling the starter up with water!
-Defender110-
Well-Known Member
aaronmorris
Head's a shed
Twunt
I did think that when I wrote it. Hayho Aaron, this build is truly epic! Just sat and read through the whole thread and it's brilliant!
Keep up the amazing work it really is inspiring stuff!
Already looking forward to the next update
Cheers for positive comments Rob
Must have taken a while to read it all
Loads more updates to come in due course
Feels never ending at the mo.
aaronmorris
Head's a shed
Come on Aaron... you had the last one rebuilt after 21 pages!
How the feck did you know that
You must have a good memory. I didn't even know that.
Actually, This was all but done at one point
Then for some unbeknown reason I decided to rip it apart again and put another engine in it :doh:
Probably down to more appreciation for the the build and general chat
aaronmorris
Head's a shed
So with the trouble I've had with the starter. I decided the only way to be sure is to get the original converted to 12v
So I've been e-mailing a few companies about converting it.
Only had one get back to me and they want £240
Jesus f*cking christ, Project find some money then now
Although I'm still not sure whether to just use the 24v starter.
So I've been e-mailing a few companies about converting it.
Only had one get back to me and they want £240
Jesus f*cking christ, Project find some money then now
Although I'm still not sure whether to just use the 24v starter.
aaronmorris
Head's a shed
aaronmorris
Head's a shed
So, The gearbox came back today It's been a long time coming.
But I can't thank the bloke enough, As the project probably wouldn't have even got off the ground.
Anyway a few pics
No progress as such, But assembled the gearbox and transfer box to make sure all was good.
The parts, Adapter plate (lazer cut out of steel)
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Draw bar and input gear.
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ZF splines on the inside of the gear.
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What the back of the box looks like before fitting plate.
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Adapter bolted on.
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Draw bar screwed onto the original prop flange threads.
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Input gear on and nut on the back.
This is basically what you have, Albeit with the input being in the transfer box.
Was just having a play to see what was what.
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Input gear is now a different size where it comes through the transfer box.
So new correct size seal fitted.
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Input gear put in through the pto hole and cover put back on.
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Slide box on and a nut to hold all the gubbins together
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Boxes bolted together. Finally
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It's close
Had to flap disc a bit of the gearbox and need to countersink some bolts.
Hard to show in a pic but theirs only a couple of mm.
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So tomorrow morning I'll separate them again to make fitting easier.
Whether I get both mounts made is another mater as it's far to hot to be doing much, Never mind welding.
It's been a long time coming. But I can't thank the bloke enough, As the project probably wouldn't have even got off the ground.
Anyway a few pics
No progress as such, But assembled the gearbox and transfer box to make sure all was good.
The parts, Adapter plate (lazer cut out of steel)
Draw bar and input gear.
ZF splines on the inside of the gear.
What the back of the box looks like before fitting plate.
Adapter bolted on.
Draw bar screwed onto the original prop flange threads.
Input gear on and nut on the back.
This is basically what you have, Albeit with the input being in the transfer box.
Was just having a play to see what was what.
Input gear is now a different size where it comes through the transfer box.
So new correct size seal fitted.
Input gear put in through the pto hole and cover put back on.
Slide box on and a nut to hold all the gubbins together
Boxes bolted together. Finally
It's close
Had to flap disc a bit of the gearbox and need to countersink some bolts.
Hard to show in a pic but theirs only a couple of mm.
So tomorrow morning I'll separate them again to make fitting easier.
Whether I get both mounts made is another mater as it's far to hot to be doing much, Never mind welding.
Station House
Well-Known Member
Looks a great bit of engineering
That laser cut plate looks superb
That laser cut plate looks superb
aaronmorris
Head's a shed
that is sexy as #### mate!!!!
Aye, I'm well chuffed with it
Yep
Just a shame it's not my own work.But not got the skills or the tools to even know where to start.
That's a good point, The nut is to actually preload the gearbox.
But tightening the nut means you're preloading the input bearing.
Unless he has the shaft exactly the right length as so to only preload it so much.
As for selling on ebay or the like.
Yep, I recon they'd sell very well.
I know he's done a couple more since they've seen the one he did for me.
aaronmorris
Head's a shed
So, Box fitting today.
Not the best of days to be honest, Got myself all wound up and it just makes matters worse, The dummy was well and truly spat out.
Not just this, But other **** aswell, Felt like just saying bollocks to it
It kind of reiterated my thinking that I wish I had done it from day one. But two late for that now.
Fitted the gearbox with the engine crane.
Was still a ####, Lack of room :blah: :blah: :blah:
Done now, Just hope it doesn't have to come out again.
Gear stick position is pretty good, I'd say a bit further to the n/s compared to standard but a little bend in the stick and will be fine.
[/URL][/IMG]
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Stuck the transfer box on. So I could work the mounts out.
So the o/s mount is quite straight forwards.
Obviously the mount is now further back.
So I've bolted a piece of 6mm plate to the chassis using the original mounting bolts and welded the original mount to that.
Well not quite. Did about a quarter and ran out of gas and wire
So I'll finish that when I get some more and try and work a plan out for the other side while I'm waiting.
So after a ****e day it's time for a beer, Thanks to a someone on here :5bcheers2:
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Not the best of days to be honest, Got myself all wound up and it just makes matters worse, The dummy was well and truly spat out.
Not just this, But other **** aswell, Felt like just saying bollocks to it
It kind of reiterated my thinking that I wish I had done it from day one. But two late for that now.
Fitted the gearbox with the engine crane.
Was still a ####, Lack of room :blah: :blah: :blah:
Done now, Just hope it doesn't have to come out again.
Gear stick position is pretty good, I'd say a bit further to the n/s compared to standard but a little bend in the stick and will be fine.
Stuck the transfer box on. So I could work the mounts out.
So the o/s mount is quite straight forwards.
Obviously the mount is now further back.
So I've bolted a piece of 6mm plate to the chassis using the original mounting bolts and welded the original mount to that.
Well not quite. Did about a quarter and ran out of gas and wire
So I'll finish that when I get some more and try and work a plan out for the other side while I'm waiting.
So after a ****e day it's time for a beer, Thanks to a someone on here :5bcheers2:
Disc300Series
Active Member
Looking really good, great work you've done there !
