If you are going to strip it down, wait until you do before buying a welder, gas, wire etc. Listen to what Foxyred is saying. You will likely find the chassis is in a poor state. A new galv chassis is expensive, but a great investment. You are about to take on a decent amount of work and it will likely be powered by your love of your Landy. You don't want to go through all that and still have a patched up, rusting chassis.
neilly
Well-Known Member
+1, same goes for the rest of the tools, I am a great believer in having the correct tools for the job if you can possibly help it.
A decent socket set, pry bar, 24 and 39 inch breaker bar, torque wrenches, impact wrench, impact sockets ( including eyeglasses) , spanner set up to 32mm, spanner set imperial, a good no1 tool, Screwdriver set, Battery drill, Drill bits, trolley jack, 2 sets of 3 ton axle stands at least, engine hoist 2 tonne, Irwin nut removers, plus gas, Degreasing bath ( diesel / kero in a plastic tub and brush), Angle grinder 1mm cutting discs and flapwheels + anything else I can think of............
Cheers
I didn't bother. MOT Tester said that so long as the VIN plate was in the front windscreen. I cut the number out of the dumb iron and kept it
Alan Crossley
Well-Known Member
I can't help thinking Mr Doey68 that, because you are a quality engineer (no idea what that is, but the words suggest your a bit of a perfectionist) you might just be over thinking your problem. And, I certainly don't want you to think that I am being flippant, but when you go back to basics and consider what the vehicle is, it was designed on the back of a matchbox, things tend to fall off when your going along, it has always been an iconic, very simple, machine that is utilitarian and, never intended to be a Rolls Royce.
Take a look as some of the rebuild pictures that some of the members have posted and they are,to my mind, works of art. But, they all start from the same basis, vehicle broken or striped down and repaired bit by bit.
Get it striped, get hold of a competent welder, some steel and start patching up the holes until it is sufficiently strong to do the job, paint it, or galvanise and rebuild.
Take a look as some of the rebuild pictures that some of the members have posted and they are,to my mind, works of art. But, they all start from the same basis, vehicle broken or striped down and repaired bit by bit.
Get it striped, get hold of a competent welder, some steel and start patching up the holes until it is sufficiently strong to do the job, paint it, or galvanise and rebuild.
Landyfox
Well-Known Member
I agree with this...
I'm definitely not going to jump on the bandwagon and say start changing your chassis without seeing just how bad it is. I don't understand why everyone is saying it's a lot of stripping down... very little stripping down is required for most chassis work. We all tend to catastrophise... me included. Keep things in perspective and work is subject to budget.
raywin
Well-Known Member
Don't want to put the mockers on it and I hope it goes well for you, but I was facing the same problem last year with just a few places on the chassis looking rusty, I bit the bullet and had a galv chassis fitted, when I went to pick it up I was supprised how bad the old one was, under the gearbox cross member were two big holes and the front cross member under the radiator was like lace.
Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
@Doey68 is yours worse than mine was?
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/new-rear-spring-seat-installed.241375/
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/new-rear-spring-seat-installed.241375/
Magicgrotto
Well-Known Member
You lads are so lucky ! to be able to strip your body's off bit bi bit ! you can't do that with a D1
neilly
Well-Known Member
If I recall correctly, he has stated he was looking at a galv chassis replacement in the future anyway and also stated he wanted to replace as much as possible now. He has two direction to take at the moment.
Get it done down and dirty to the minimum to last a couple of years and just weld what is necessary and hopefully pass the next MOT or strip until he is happy he has got everything and then also get everything sorted so that when a new chassis can be sourced it will hopefully be a painless experience.
Cheers
neilly
Well-Known Member
You lads are so lucky ! to be able to strip your body's off bit bi bit ! you can't do that with a D1
All you need is an angle grinder and 1mm discs............job done.
Cheers
Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
I've just sold one that was rotten for that very reasonYou lads are so lucky ! to be able to strip your body's off bit bi bit ! you can't do that with a D1
Magicgrotto
Well-Known Member
I am not going to comment until I'v seen the picys of the chassis !
Landyfox
Well-Known Member
I wasn't having a dig.... certainly not criticising anyone's advice. Rather the chap said he didn't have sufficient funds to replace chassis at this time and was reluctantly considering selling his beloved vehicle. It can be very disheartening if you find yourself in this position, I was merely highlighting that welding a chassis is not has big a deal as it sounds. Without pictures there was little point focusing on having to replace chassis, particularly as he stated he did not have funds. Using this as a resource and utilising the expertise of you chaps, I'm sure he would be able to successfully repair the chassis. Once funds permit and if he feels a replacement chassis is then a suitable option, there's no harm in doing it then!
Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
That's my plan, I've got a separate bank account that a transfer 20 quid a week into to save up for a galv chassis over a couple of years, I started it about three years ago and I keep spending it on other stuff and patching the chassis every year for its mot
neilly
Well-Known Member
That's my plan, I've got a separate bank account that a transfer 20 quid a week into to save up for a galv chassis over a couple of years, I started it about three years ago and I keep spending it on other stuff and patching the chassis every year for its mot
I hope this means that when you do come to replace the chassis it is not as painful............Fingers crossed.
But then again we own landies.................
Cheers
mick the builder
Well-Known Member
The next question is:-
Flux core welding without gas v MIG (MAG) welding - Discuss.[/QUOTE]
Putting it very simplistically, If you plan to weld outside in windy conditions, mig + gas is not going to work well as the sheilding gas gets blown away leaving a bad/weak weld. The plus side is you can run a weld on top of another weld without cleaning the first one down.
Flux core has the same principal as stick welding as in the flux acts as the shield and can be used in windy conditions. Down side is you have to chip away the slag before you can weld on top of the first. I have a mig that can do both. Get the best you can afford and can handle steal up to 4-5mm.
Flux core welding without gas v MIG (MAG) welding - Discuss.[/QUOTE]
Putting it very simplistically, If you plan to weld outside in windy conditions, mig + gas is not going to work well as the sheilding gas gets blown away leaving a bad/weak weld. The plus side is you can run a weld on top of another weld without cleaning the first one down.
Flux core has the same principal as stick welding as in the flux acts as the shield and can be used in windy conditions. Down side is you have to chip away the slag before you can weld on top of the first. I have a mig that can do both. Get the best you can afford and can handle steal up to 4-5mm.
neilly
Well-Known Member
Putting it very simplistically, If you plan to weld outside in windy conditions, mig + gas is not going to work well as the sheilding gas gets blown away leaving a bad/weak weld. The plus side is you can run a weld on top of another weld without cleaning the first one down.
Flux core has the same principal as stick welding as in the flux acts as the shield and can be used in windy conditions. Down side is you have to chip away the slag before you can weld on top of the first. I have a mig that can do both. Get the best you can afford and can handle steal up to 4-5mm.[/QUOTE]
+1,
Get yourself a windproof shelter to weld in.......stick to MIG..............trust me it saves a lot of hassle..................
Cheers
