The last couple of weeks I´ve been trying to sort out the engine wiring. Battery is/will be relocated under the seat, a new battery box is on its way over from UK now. The old glow plug resistor is swapped for a heater relay, fuel cut off solenoid, alternator and other misc loose ends. New fuel lines are also under construction. Old system with a sedimentor feels a bit outdated, I imagine could be swapped for a new filter with integrated sedimentor. Also spent quite a few hours bleeding the clutch. After reading up on the subject I found I had put the slave cylinder upside down. That was fun. Also made a new gas linkage and a new bracket to attach the soft clutch line. Have also been figuring how the exhaust will be drawn, since the extractor now will be app 8" further forward. Surprisingly when I tested the wiring and put the lights on, for the first time in 22 years, they all worked. I guess there´s a first for everything. Hopefully, thanks to you guys/gals we will have a go at starting the engine in not too many days, fingers crossed.
If you care, please vote which button should be used for pre-heating the glow plugs. There´s the more or less "period correct" alternative, pic 1, or a little more hurry up alternative, pic 2.
//Car1

Seeing the end of the tunnel, but not there yet. With the DL52 the exhaust need to be rerouted so I´ve practiced the new welder a few times. I rescued pieces from the one that came with the engine, which spared me a few bends. Still got the rear part to do, but hopefully I´m done in a day or two. Also relocated the oil filter, which was in the way of the drop arm/steering. Can put a paper between the two now, which isn´t too much Since I´m now a professional welder, I tacked a bracket for the filter holder on the front cross member, I hope it won´t be in the way for something else along the way. Also got the engine wiring done. I couldn´t find a position on the key/switch for heating the glow plugs - hence the questions above. Got informed that this position is found pressing the key to load the switch spring, so that´s sorted now. No need for start buttons anymore. Emberton Imperial UK sent me a new under seat battery box, which is now installed, it fits really good and places the battery well away from quick services. I´m installing a permanent smart charger in the box, and also a kill switch somewhere on the seat box, just to avoid pulling the seat out for servicing the battery.
Not too long before trying to crank it, just need to run lines and bleed first.
//Car1

Been a long time since the last update, here we go. Exhaust taken care of. Can´t say I´m super friendly with the welder just yet, but learning curve is steep, actually pretty satisfied with the result. Had to have a radiator in place, so got the old one, brushed it up and installed. It´s really tight between radiator and engine, hence the rubber hoses acting up and are hard to install without bending them too much/blocking the water flow. Think that´s taken care of, at least temporally for now. After that...all lights were rotten, plastic lenses fell off just looking at them, screws corroded and back plate gone. So after installing new lights I spent a few hours figuring out which wire to connect where, but in the end got all light/indicators working. Engine is still misbehaving and won´t fire without start gas. Finally got tired fixing things all the time and decided to take it out for a test drive. Great feeling, after +20 years being able to drive for the first time. As the engine won´t rev up, the speed was really low and in 2nd gear at the most, but it all worked, (starting not counted). Steering is not too bad, breaks work-ish, wheels are oval, floor boards flopping around etc, but a really nice ride. Still remains a lot to do, getting the engine in order one of them, but for now both me and site manager is pretty content. Site manager very impressed with my electric skills, though points out to me that only applies on max 12 V.
Well, thanks for all help sofar, it´s priceless
/Car1