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109SeriesIIA

Member
Saw this pic feature in a thread on here from ER1C. Maybe ER1C himself can answer?

Two questions:

1) That cluster in the red square, it appears to have an oil temp, at two o'clock?

ER1C-Dash-Speedo.gif



The Military gauge gets a cluster as shown below, Oil temp at 6 o'clock.

Lightweight 12V Cluster 559323.jpg



Young Er1C's differs. What am I looking at?

2) And how is there a recess to the panel marked green. None of this is stock series as I know it. Some modding has been going on. Or is it a late Series, etc again i ask, what am I looking at?
 
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Not as ER1C's, mine is like so...


My-Oil-Temp-May-2020.jpg



It's something I cobbled-in. A milly gauge into my civvy 109. Oil at 6 o'clock.
 
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Yes, very possible to buy just the gauge. I've already made mine from a gauge found in a a 60s Wolesley cluster. All much the same. But it gets weirder. No I don't know either.... we can buy a keyring/key fob of ER1C's dash for £35... the man's famous.


key fob.png
 
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Mine is my own custom 12V jobby. As far as I'm aware, 12V won't exist in stock LR parts... ER1C must have a LWT and/or FFR 24V military. Correct?
 
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109SeriesIIA said:
He neglects to say how he got a 24V gauge to run on his 12V wagon
Click to expand...
There's a 12V version of the 3-gauge Smiths cluster, but these are even more rare than the 24V. As far as I know, all Series 3 military FFR were 24V, but GS were 12V.
My ex-mil GS Ser3 was 12V; it had the 3-gauge Smiths cluster but these gauges are notorious for corroding internally and just reading max the whole time. I could only find 24V replacements, so I used a small 12-to-24 boost converter - that worked fine, but I thnk the old capillary gauges are more reliable!
 
Thanks, I did wonder.
My solution is 12V. Mine with oil at 6 o'clock, it's only as a result of that NicksLandRover pic, that I now realise there's another milly variant of the three-gauge cluster over the version I used.,

As far as I can make out these all came from an era when the Smiths/Jaeger temp gauges were not great, as you say internal corrosion etc. I thought all 24V, you're lucky to have a 12V.

In my solution I've taken later type gauges, and cobbled them to 'appear' as the older format, then spliced them into an ex-24V cluster.

Smiths have several types of temp-gauges, working in different ways. Smiths BT TC & TE Types. My Smiths temperature gauge is a TC (a later gauge) which 'looks' Land rover , yet works with later more reliable senders, at 12V.

If your 12 to 24 step-up ever plays-up that'd be the way to go.
 
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