Markzzz

Markzzz

New Member
I've recently bought two Series 3 Land Rovers (one wasn't enough!). A 1977 SWB and a 1985 LWB 109. I'm new to Land Rovers and even newer to the dark art of motor mechanics. (but already really enjoy looking under the bonnet even if it makes no sense to me). For my first post I would be grateful if anyone can offer advice on the following: My 1985 LWB 109 (PETROL 2.25) starts OK although I have to rev it a bit to get the fuel moving into the carb, it then idles OK and drives well, but after about 30 mins if I stop at traffic lights it won't idle and the red charge light comes on and will stall unless I keep revving it. Any ideas on what I should do would be hugely appreciated. Many thanks, Mark
 
Welcome to the forum, next stop the Psychiatrists:oops:

Could be crud in the carb, it needs a tune up or just something like the throttle cable needs tweaking to increase the idle speed
 
Welcome aboard. Got any pics - always nice to see pics...

Marmaduke said:
Could be crud in the carb, it needs a tune up or just something like the throttle cable needs tweaking to increase the idle speed
Click to expand...

Agreed - muck in the carb might be intermittently blocking the slow running jet, this is easy to cure, but a fuel filter would be a good idea to help prevent recurring - either a replacement if it has one, or a new fitment if it hasn't.:)

This assumes that you have checked the linkage for play and lost motion etc., and adjusting the tickover speed as necessary, before stripping and cleaning the carb....:)

Markzzz said:
although I have to rev it a bit to get the fuel moving into the carb,
Click to expand...

I don't understand this bit - can you elaborate a bit....
 
I would start by giving it a full service, you could do that yourself easy enough.
New plugs,p oints, ht leads, dizzy cap, rotor.
If those bits aren't good it won't run right .
Quite cheap too:)
 
Please don't be offended, but are you using choke? If so you are remembering to push it back in? Basic I know but best to start right at the beginning! welcome btw
 
Thanks everyone for your advice and for such a warm welcome to the site. I think I will need to get my tools out and take the plunge under the bonnet. I did get it serviced after I bought it but I'm not sure if the plugs, dizzy cap, rotor, points and hit leads were replaced. It was backfiring badly before the service and this was fixed then. I'll also start an intimate relationship with the carburettor, I've read a lot about the tinkering that carbs needs. Is there an order that I should do all these jobs in? As a non-mechanic I would like to start with easiest and work my up. Thanks for the advice about the choke by the way, (waldamar) I learnt my lesson the hard way with that one quite early on and still forget to push the joke back in sometimes!. Thanks again
 
Disco1BFG said:
Welcome aboard. Got any pics - always nice to see pics...



Agreed - muck in the carb might be intermittently blocking the slow running jet, this is easy to cure, but a fuel filter would be a good idea to help prevent recurring - either a replacement if it has one, or a new fitment if it hasn't.:)

This assumes that you have checked the linkage for play and lost motion etc., and adjusting the tickover speed as necessary, before stripping and cleaning the carb....:)



I don't understand this bit - can you elaborate a bit....
Click to expand...
Hi, yes, I had trouble starting it as it would start but then backfire (this was after it had been serviced). The guy who serviced it said it may be fuel blockage somewhere and suggested I rev it hard after I start it for a while. This seems to get everything moving and then it idles OK. It's a bit of noisy process though.
 
Markzzz said:
Thanks everyone for your advice and for such a warm welcome to the site. I think I will need to get my tools out and take the plunge under the bonnet. I did get it serviced after I bought it but I'm not sure if the plugs, dizzy cap, rotor, points and hit leads were replaced. It was backfiring badly before the service and this was fixed then. I'll also start an intimate relationship with the carburettor, I've read a lot about the tinkering that carbs needs. Is there an order that I should do all these jobs in? As a non-mechanic I would like to start with easiest and work my up. Thanks for the advice about the choke by the way, (waldamar) I learnt my lesson the hard way with that one quite early on and still forget to push the joke back in sometimes!. Thanks again
Click to expand...

Start by adjusting the linkages before tinkering with the carb.

When I buy an old landrover, the first thing I do is a complete fluids change. Gearbox, transfer box, axles, swivel housings,coolant, grease nipples, change brake fluid.

That way you know you have the right amount of the right oils everywhere. And the condition and amount of what comes out is a useful guide as to how well it has been looked after.
 
Markzzz said:
Hi, yes, I had trouble starting it as it would start but then backfire (this was after it had been serviced). The guy who serviced it said it may be fuel blockage somewhere and suggested I rev it hard after I start it for a while. This seems to get everything moving and then it idles OK. It's a bit of noisy process though.
Click to expand...

Are you sure the ignition timing was set up properly at service?
 
Tappets are easy to check/set and very satisfying - I trust you've got a manual? [Haynes book of lies will do for starters] Check that the choke is actually fully open when pushed fully home - if not adjust - above all have fun. Pictures!
 
What kind of card is it and what did they "fix" to stop the backfire? A 1985 is one of the last of the production run. Any pics?
 
IMG_00003607.jpg
 
Hi, this is the carb that is on my LWB 109. The guy I bought it from said it recently had had a new carb fitted. Although this one looks like a Zenith? (so probably a "reconditioned" one. What do you think?
There seem to be a lot of "linkages" along the fuel pipe before it gets to the carb. I have quite a few questions:
Do I need the fuel filter?
Should I put in a new fuel pipe without having all these linkages?
What sort of fuel pipe should I get? (there seem to be metal ones and plastic ones). Where would I get one from?
Do you think this would help things?
Sorry for all the questions (hopefully my enthusiasm will make up for my woeful knowledge)
Thanks in advance
 
Markzzz said:
Hi, this is the carb that is on my LWB 109. The guy I bought it from said it recently had had a new carb fitted. Although this one looks like a Zenith? (so probably a "reconditioned" one. What do you think?
There seem to be a lot of "linkages" along the fuel pipe before it gets to the carb. I have quite a few questions:
Do I need the fuel filter?
Should I put in a new fuel pipe without having all these linkages?
What sort of fuel pipe should I get? (there seem to be metal ones and plastic ones). Where would I get one from?
Do you think this would help things?
Sorry for all the questions (hopefully my enthusiasm will make up for my woeful knowledge)
Thanks in advance
Click to expand...

I cant remember what the carbs look like, I do know they are often recarbed with Weber. Someone else will know.

Fuel line is bitty, but so long as it is all fuel rated hose, doesn't leak, and isn't visibly perished, I should think it will work fine.

If you do want to change it, I would go with what your vehicle had as standard, my memory is that would have a nylon fuel pipe.
You can probably just order the part off the net, or from a local supplier.
 
Hi, yes I thought it is likely to be a cheap Zenith copy. Do you think I should just replace it with a new Weber?
 
To me it looks like a Weber. It should have a stamp on the sides somewhere? Can't see it in the photo. Anyhow. Have a look at the other side towards the engine, to the rear corner. If its a Weber there's a screw which is the idler. Unscrew it carefully. It has a small O ring seal. Careful not to drop it! If it's dirty it will be a bit sooty/ oily. Just clean it with a Lin free cloth and blow through the internal hole clear out any crude. Refit same number of turns. If its been dirty that should cure the backfire and run on when you switch off the ignition.
 
Turboman said:
Fuel line is bitty, but so long as it is all fuel rated hose, doesn't leak, and isn't visibly perished, I should think it will work fine.

If you do want to change it, I would go with what your vehicle had as standard, my memory is that would have a nylon fuel pipe.
You can probably just order the part off the net, or from a local supplier.
Click to expand...

As above, your call as to whether to replace or not - personally, I would just to tidy it up under there - easy job and should increase your confidence a bit - just be careful, given the location of the carb over the exhaust manifold...

blue beasty said:
This might help http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/carbs.htm
Click to expand...

Interesting read :)

Passed me test in a IIA, but I couldn't remember what they looked like either. :rolleyes:
 
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