I've taken the head off my Easter pressie. Yes bent valves on the 2nd cylinder from the cam pulleys. Do the cylinders number from that end? It would be cylinder two then. If numbered from the distributor end it will be number three.

This head is a better example than the spare one I bought recently in that the valve seats are a neat fit in the casting without any significant lips and mis-machined faces. So me thinks I'll use that one to tickle up a bit.

Questions:
Valves were bent where the come through their respective guide. The guides appear to be fine. Is it okay to pinch a couple of valves from the spare head and pop them in or should I buy new replacements?

I realise I'll need to lap all valves in again. And yes I have stored them carefully so they can go back to their original location.

To check the guides do I clean everything up and 'dry' fit each valve and feel for any sideways movement in the guide? How much would be to much? Or is there a better way? Alternatively should I oil each up and then try to feel for any lateral movement?

Has anyone used oven cleaner to clean up the exhaust valve chamber/runner and cylinders on the head? How did it go?

I want to clean up the heads and camshaft carriers prior to any work by soaking them in hot water and drain cleaner [ caustic soda solution]. Has anyone done that?

Finally - the valve stem oil seals sit on top of the valve guides. How do I get them out?

HTR

the valve springs need to be compressed and the collets are in 2 parts just ease them apart and then you can take the springs off and then get a flate bladed screw driver and prise the valve oil seal up. hope this helps

Ahh, so they're just a push in fit. Thank for that.

HTR

You probably saw this already, but if I were in your shoes, I would wish someone would point me to this thread:

K-engine project - A possible low cost rebuild? - The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums

Loads of info on the 1.8 there

Hey that's an excellent thread, have added it to my Bookmarks and watch with interest file.

HTR

The cylinders are numbered from the cam belt end. Oddly Rover call that end the front of the engine?? That seems strange, particularly as the engine was designed for transverse installation!!
You can in theory take the valves out of 1 head to repair another but I can't see the point??
I always use paraffin or kerosene for initial cleaning before rinsing off with petrol. This leaves the components clean and dry.

cam belts are always or nearly always at the front of the engine, so I think that is why LR say that. I have never known cam belts to be at the back of a engine but I have been known to be wrong.

I read the instructions / cautions on the drain cleaner "..DO NOT USE ON ALUMINIUM..." - so I won't. I might have come back to a partially dissolved head!

HTR

htr said:

I read the instructions / cautions on the drain cleaner "..DO NOT USE ON ALUMINIUM..." - so I won't. I might have come back to a partially dissolved head!

HTR

Click to expand...

Drain cleaner can oxidise the surface, often causing it to go black.
Petrol works well, is comparatively cheap and evaporates off.

Drain cleaner is caustic soda, and will eat aluminium. I've seen holes is ally chequer plate by 32% caustic, admittedly a lot stronger than must cleaners.