Jason F
Active Member
After reviewing Busterbus's excellent posting titled 'Á-Frame balljoint renewal', and after reading the replys to my earlier enquiry on this topic, I though I'd give it a go on my Discovery 1.
I cleaned up and sprayed the nut threads with a penetrating product for about a week and more.
I ran into a big problem however
. A standard shape socket will not go on to the nut as it fouls with the diff housing on a Disco 1 (insanity to design it this way ).
![PICT0126.JPG PICT0126.JPG](https://www.landyzone.co.uk/data/attachments/47/47802-140e7662038c7fa5a64d854a5a77ca68.jpg)
I could not buy a reduced shoulder socket, so what I did was to use an angle grinder to grind down a standard socket. I also shortened it a bit, as it was too long.
![PICT0135.JPG PICT0135.JPG](https://www.landyzone.co.uk/data/attachments/47/47804-105a4212215c38e2e98769cf48b29cff.jpg)
I was then able to at least get the socket on.
I used an extension bar as shown in photo. It would not budge even with using a lump hammer on the end of the extension bar.
![PICT0132.JPG PICT0132.JPG](https://www.landyzone.co.uk/data/attachments/47/47805-f8e6b950fb1aa2e24996ad67ffbb547d.jpg)
As suggested in Busterbus's post:-
- I tried an impact driver, but no go.
- I then applied MAPP gas torch and heated it up considerably, then sprayed it again, and tried the usual things but no go.
I then resorted to a cold chisel on the castellated part of the nut. But no go. However, I now think I have damaged the thread
as you can probably see on the lower left corner of photo.
If I had a Dremel, I could cut of the damaged portion of the castellated nut and thread.
Lessens learnt: Don't use a cold chisel.
As I cannot get a nut splitter on to it, and after spending 1/2 a day on it (including mods to 30mm socket), I suspect that my only choice is to take the vehicle to a professional and let them get it off (but I really don't like doing that when I should be able to do it myself).
Does anyone have any other ideas ?
(Thumbnail below shows reason for changing joint, i.e. split boot)
I cleaned up and sprayed the nut threads with a penetrating product for about a week and more.
I ran into a big problem however
![PICT0126.JPG PICT0126.JPG](https://www.landyzone.co.uk/data/attachments/47/47802-140e7662038c7fa5a64d854a5a77ca68.jpg)
I could not buy a reduced shoulder socket, so what I did was to use an angle grinder to grind down a standard socket. I also shortened it a bit, as it was too long.
![PICT0135.JPG PICT0135.JPG](https://www.landyzone.co.uk/data/attachments/47/47804-105a4212215c38e2e98769cf48b29cff.jpg)
I was then able to at least get the socket on.
I used an extension bar as shown in photo. It would not budge even with using a lump hammer on the end of the extension bar.
![PICT0132.JPG PICT0132.JPG](https://www.landyzone.co.uk/data/attachments/47/47805-f8e6b950fb1aa2e24996ad67ffbb547d.jpg)
As suggested in Busterbus's post:-
- I tried an impact driver, but no go.
- I then applied MAPP gas torch and heated it up considerably, then sprayed it again, and tried the usual things but no go.
I then resorted to a cold chisel on the castellated part of the nut. But no go. However, I now think I have damaged the thread
If I had a Dremel, I could cut of the damaged portion of the castellated nut and thread.
Lessens learnt: Don't use a cold chisel.
As I cannot get a nut splitter on to it, and after spending 1/2 a day on it (including mods to 30mm socket), I suspect that my only choice is to take the vehicle to a professional and let them get it off (but I really don't like doing that when I should be able to do it myself).
Does anyone have any other ideas ?
(Thumbnail below shows reason for changing joint, i.e. split boot)
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