A

armedpitbull

New Member
hi all,

bought a 95 p38 4.0 se last night. I got it cheap due to it saying "keycode lockout". I got it home and ive entered the eka code and now the immobiliser has turned off and the key fob is working again. I get all lights on the dash but it just will not crank over. has anybody got any ideas as what the problem could be?

also when I unlock the car with the fob all the doors unlock but not the drivers door but when I lock with the key all the doors lock including the drivers door. could this be anything to do with it? :confused:
 
Possibly the BeCM and the Engine ECU has lost Sync...

Did it accept the EKA Code OK?
 
I think the problem maybe solved. just taken the fuse box apart and its a mess. somebody has tried to repair it before and has done a very bad job of it. so im on the look out for a fuse box and hopfully problem will be solved
 
armedpitbull said:
I think the problem maybe solved. just taken the fuse box apart and its a mess. somebody has tried to repair it before and has done a very bad job of it. so im on the look out for a fuse box and hopfully problem will be solved
Click to expand...
There are several different versions, make sure you get the correct one.:)
 
Well new working fuse box fitted and its still the same :( I've also bought a syncmate and I just get 1 red light. Is there anyway of telling if the becm has gone into lockout?
 
armedpitbull said:
Well new working fuse box fitted and its still the same :( I've also bought a syncmate and I just get 1 red light. Is there anyway of telling if the becm has gone into lockout?
Click to expand...
Is it the correct fuse box? Does it still not crank?
Depending on year, some will not crank with loss of sync, others will crank but not start. I'm not familiar with the syncmate, so I don't know what the red LED means but it sounds like it has failed to communicate. You really need diagnostics such as Nanocom or Faultmate.
 
Datatek said:
Is it the correct fuse box? Does it still not crank?
Depending on year, some will not crank with loss of sync, others will crank but not start. I'm not familiar with the syncmate, so I don't know what the red LED means but it sounds like it has failed to communicate. You really need diagnostics such as Nanocom or Faultmate.
Click to expand...

Think you switch ignition on then plug it in or plug it in then switch ignition on one of the two. Should flash blue then go green. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=isK4FlIUGMQ
 
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if ur drivers door dosent open with the fob,then ur actuator may be kaput,it will open with the key,and yes will seem like it takes the code,but it wont,because the actuator isnt working! check there are no leaks down in the foot wells,and maby check the loom in the door,as these can come in contact with moving parts inside the doors, it can cause chaos with these motors! and dont keep putting the code in,bacause it will just lock out compleatly,so be patiant with it! make sure u have a fully charged battery on it,and if it dont accept the code,leave it for a while,and then try again! if the actuator is burned out in the drivers door,or faulty then it may well be a fault bcm,supplying a constant voltage through the electrical supply to the actuators,witch can burn them out! dont **** her off tho,she will bite u in the arse! :)
 
no,if the door wont unlock with the fob,then its more than likely the actuatour has burned out, so the car will not take the code, my dad has the same but on the passangers door,and it has issues with the central locking because of it! if u enter the code at night u can see the indicator light flashing on the dash everything u turn the key,to enter the code,if it does flash it shud mean its taking the code! if the door actuator isnt working,the bcm cant take the code from the door lock to let u into the system! the indicatours shuddnt flash when u enter the code,if they are,leave it alone,lock the doors,and leave it for a while with the battery connected!
 
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I can see what you mean but I'm not sure weather mine has accepted the code. Ill explain what it does and then you will see what I mean. Connect battery and it says "keycode lockout", wait 10 mins till it dosnt say it anymore, unlock drivers door and alarm sounds (no other door unlocks), lock door and then x times to right, x left, x right, x left. Unlock door and all doors open. Resync key and all the doors open expect the drivers door. This is were I'm confused, has it accepted the eka code or not? Hope you understand what I mean
 
tom1disco.300 said:
no,if the door wont unlock with the fob,then its more than likely the actuatour has burned out, so the car will not take the code, my dad has the same but on the passangers door,and it has issues with the central locking because of it! if u enter the code at night u can see the indicator light flashing on the dash everything u turn the key,to enter the code,if it does flash it shud mean its taking the code! if the door actuator isnt working,the bcm cant take the code from the door lock to let u into the system! the indicatours shuddnt flash when u enter the code,if they are,leave it alone,lock the doors,and leave it for a while with the battery connected!
Click to expand...
A burnt actuator motor has no effect on the entry of the EKA code which relies on the micro switches not the actuator motor.
Some flash, some don't.
 
armedpitbull said:
I can see what you mean but I'm not sure weather mine has accepted the code. Ill explain what it does and then you will see what I mean. Connect battery and it says "keycode lockout", wait 10 mins till it dosnt say it anymore, unlock drivers door and alarm sounds (no other door unlocks), lock door and then x times to right, x left, x right, x left. Unlock door and all doors open. Resync key and all the doors open expect the drivers door. This is were I'm confused, has it accepted the eka code or not? Hope you understand what I mean
Click to expand...
It has accepted the EKA code. You have another problem, probably loss of sync between the BECM and the engine ECU.
The fact that your syncmate does not work could be corrosion on the OBD connector or even wires corroded off the back of it.
You could also still be looking at a fuse box problem.
 
Problem solved. I give up and went and bought a bemc and ecu of a running car at a breakers yard. Now she runs sweet as a nut now :)
 
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