J

Jerseyp38

Active Member
Hi Guys,

Started a new thread as was hoping someone might spot this whilst I pick up daughter from dance (not in the range rover....)

I have just removed the fuel injection pump from the engine and gone to fit the 'new' one and noticed a wired part was missing from the bottom at the back of the 'new' pump. Is that the quantity servo? in which case I am a bit stuffed....... And will start tidying up whilst I find a part or a pump.......... Other wise is it ok to remove the part from the old pump and fix in to the new pump?

Does that makes sense?

Will attach a photo when I get back.

Thanks.
 
Jerseyp38 said:
Hi Guys,

Started a new thread as was hoping someone might spot this whilst I pick up daughter from dance (not in the range rover....)

I have just removed the fuel injection pump from the engine and gone to fit the 'new' one and noticed a wired part was missing from the bottom at the back of the 'new' pump. Is that the quantity servo? in which case I am a bit stuffed....... And will start tidying up whilst I find a part or a pump.......... Other wise is it ok to remove the part from the old pump and fix in to the new pump?

Does that makes sense?

Will attach a photo when I get back.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
No it's the modulation solenoid. Quantity servo is inside pump.
 
Thank you Wammers, I will swap over the modulation solenoid and carry on. Thank you again. Kids will have to cook their own dinner..........
 
Pretty sure my refurbed one came with everything attached and was a straight swap.
 
Hi Grrrr,

Afraid it is a secondhand pump from an engine that was running well until it seized, so hopefully OK. Even if it runs for a while to prove the problem. I have fitted it in this evening and timed it but after a couple of revolutions about 0.05mm out so will have another go tomorrow. When I checked the timing on the original one before removing it was show as 0.80mm instead of 0.90mm. Hopefully I am doing it ok!!!!!!
 
Jerseyp38 said:
Hi Grrrr,

Afraid it is a secondhand pump from an engine that was running well until it seized, so hopefully OK. Even if it runs for a while to prove the problem. I have fitted it in this evening and timed it but after a couple of revolutions about 0.05mm out so will have another go tomorrow. When I checked the timing on the original one before removing it was show as 0.80mm instead of 0.90mm. Hopefully I am doing it ok!!!!!!
Click to expand...

I measured 3 times in a row to get the same result before I reassembled all the high pressure lines and whatever. I think there's a certain degree of slack and error when everything has done as many miles as our old buses.
 
Grrrrrr said:
I measured 3 times in a row to get the same result before I reassembled all the high pressure lines and whatever. I think there's a certain degree of slack and error when everything has done as many miles as our old buses.
Click to expand...

That is why you time with the last movement towards the engine. It takes all the slack out.
 
wammers said:
That is why you time with the last movement towards the engine. It takes all the slack out.
Click to expand...

I did do the final movement towards engine but not by much so checked again today and moved it further away from the engine so there was more movement back to the engine and I think it was about 0.005mm out after two revolutions. So have done everything up. No success though as no fuel to the injectors at all. Plenty going to the pump and flows out of the return connection.

Have I missed something basic or is the 'new' pump broken?

Feeling rather deflated.
 
Jerseyp38 said:
I did do the final movement towards engine but not by much so checked again today and moved it further away from the engine so there was more movement back to the engine and I think it was about 0.005mm out after two revolutions. So have done everything up. No success though as no fuel to the injectors at all. Plenty going to the pump and flows out of the return connection.

Have I missed something basic or is the 'new' pump broken?

Feeling rather deflated.
Click to expand...

Crack injectors just open and crank, it may take a while. It has to fill the injector pipes and you will only get start fuel which is not a waterfall. As you get fuel with no air nip them up. It may start doing this so be aware.
 
Have done about 6 lots of thirty seconds. Still no sign of fuel. Have put the battery charger on and will leave for a while. I did notice the engine/injector light went out and came back on and then staid on whilst cranking? Will have a tidy up.......
 
I guess the engine/injector light is staying on because no4 injector is not making a signal because it has no fuel?
 
Jerseyp38 said:
I guess the engine/injector light is staying on because no4 injector is not making a signal because it has no fuel?
Click to expand...

Sounds reasonable. You said return connection had fuel? So must be ****ing out the injector unions when slackened off?
 
Hi,

Thanks guys, well persistence with bleeding has paid of and she has started and run and been around the block! However, not perfect have the engine / injector light on permanently and when revved can go on revving a bit more after lifting foot from throttle......... It starts easily from hot, revs to 800/850 for a few seconds then settles back to 750 rpm.

Whilst I had everything apart I fitted a new starter motor and a new number 4 injector which I got from fleebay for less than half price. But I was disappointed to see some damaged to the insulation on the cables. But I PVC taped them and fitted it............... My amateur mistake?

On test drive not full of power. Guess had better go and get some diesel and see what she is like with the full reserve light off....

Any additional useful thoughts. Thanks for the help!!!!
 
MAP connected? Got any diag? That should show if #4 is good or not. You didn't pinch the wires when tightening it up?
 
Grrrrrr said:
MAP connected? Got any diag? That should show if #4 is good or not. You didn't pinch the wires when tightening it up?
Click to expand...

hi Grrrrrr, no diagnostics unfortunately, but was very careful with the wires and have the old aluminium manifold so no MAP(I think) just an air temp sensor? Have been out for a second spin and better but lacks power. Thinking about it when bleeding it did start and I let it run whilst cracked each injector nut in turn then got in the car and revved slightly where it took off and rev to 3000rpm made a pop noise and stopped: I did not have the plastic intercooler pipe over the engine connected to the turbo...... Could something have gone pop in the turbo?

I have now put all the ducting on! And as said starts and idles well.

Thanks
 
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