hughesy
Well-Known Member
I'm doing mine on me 110 at the moment, along with outriggers, footwells, all the suspension bushes and about a million other jobs. I've cut the old x member off very easily without taking the tub off. Haven't got to welding the new one on yet it's been too windy plus haven't quite figured out how I'm going to weld the top part due to there only being a bit of clearance under the floor. One thing I have noticed is the new bit from paddocks ain't nearly the same thickness and quality of the original chassis. Wonder if it'll do me for 20 odd years like the original?
Well I've done it, and right proud I am too!
One of the biggest problems was just how much to cut off the chassis, even after measuring about 6 times, I still decided to leave a bit extra on then trimmed it later on.
I can concure that it's a weekends job, especially if you're outside on your back, with the weather we've just had!
Also lifting the new one up & down to check the fit is a ball-ache, but it's on now and I'm happy with it.
now if I could work out how to post a couple of piccy's, I would!
One of the biggest problems was just how much to cut off the chassis, even after measuring about 6 times, I still decided to leave a bit extra on then trimmed it later on.
I can concure that it's a weekends job, especially if you're outside on your back, with the weather we've just had!
Also lifting the new one up & down to check the fit is a ball-ache, but it's on now and I'm happy with it.
now if I could work out how to post a couple of piccy's, I would!
Attachments
wow well done...top job mate...nice and neat....fancy poping over and doing mine for me........
no thanks, once was enough!
Can give you a few tips if you're going to do your own (not sure if 110 is similar to 90 though)
You'll need, small angle grinder with about 6 cutting discs, I also found a need for a bigger angle grinder (9" model) a reasonably decent mig welder, (don't think i'd like to tackle the difficult to get at bits with a stick welder)
don't bother about taking off mudflaps, towbar etc. you can remove them and change them over later.
when you cut the chassis, it's very easy to cut too much off the inside vertical bits, be careful!
you can leave a bit more on the vertical bits, then trim them if they touch the strengthening bits in the new crossmember, you can knock them inwards so the new crossmember slots over them easier. The top & bottom of the chassis is a different thing altogether, you need to cut them at the right length, I left more on and trimmed them back a bit at a time until the new crossmember went over the stubs OK. also, as has been said, watch the wiring!
hey guys. about to start the same project with just 1 problem...
i need to plate from the rear spring mount back abt 10cm, got a huge hole there. but my question / concern is that after weldin the plate, would the new cross member with extension still fit over the new weld????
anyone had this problem?
cheers
i need to plate from the rear spring mount back abt 10cm, got a huge hole there. but my question / concern is that after weldin the plate, would the new cross member with extension still fit over the new weld????
anyone had this problem?
cheers
Hi. I also did the job myself last year. As EdF I got the new section with extentions for the same reason. I did it with the body etc all in place over a pit. It took me about 10 hours of work over two days. No special equipment other than a mig welder and an angle grinder. I cut the wiring loom at the back and pulled it through out of harms way but attached it to apiece of steel wire so that i could get hold of it again and re-join it when finished. All went well and it past its MOT with ease. Good Luck.
If you get the one with the extensions, they nearly reach the spring hangers, but the answer to your question is, yes, you can weld up the hole, then "persuade" the sides to go inside the new legs of the crossmember.hey guys. about to start the same project with just 1 problem...
i need to plate from the rear spring mount back abt 10cm, got a huge hole there. but my question / concern is that after weldin the plate, would the new cross member with extension still fit over the new weld????
anyone had this problem?
cheers
for a neater job, fit the new cross member then make your extra plate to cover the hole, and butt up to the ends of the new crossmember before welding up that side.
you luck person, I was on my back, outside on the driveway, dodging the showers!
Jim
Love_Badger
New Member
Hmmm... need my rear member done (oo-er!) and driver and passenger floor pans too... Been quoted £1000 by local garage (for a 1989 Landy 90 which cost me £1200) What do you all think, is this a fair price? No way I'd be able to do this work myself :-(
robint
Well-Known Member
Trewey
Cockernee, Pasty munchin bastid.
No!
Contact DP Landrovers or Trevecca LR - they both quoted me £300 about a year ago.
Love_Badger
New Member
Excellent! I'll give them a call in the week and see what they say... failing that Robint - I'll open the haggling at £3500! ;-)
vivnap
Banned
this week end i should have me welder up and running so im available for a bit of welding work if any one wants owt doin ? i replaced my 90 defender cross member last year after cutting the old one off i bolted the body back on to get the bolt holes lined up right, i then stitch welded the member into place then removed the body again to finnish the welding. once it had all cooled down i re-threaded the wiring loom back through the chassis and rebuilt the rear tub. its a time consuming job especially when the bolts are seized up.
lanny man 90
Well-Known Member
Your a bit late this treads from 2008 WTF!!! his xmember will have fell of by now
